Question about Jenn-Air JJW8230D Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Breaks circuit breaker UPON HEATNG - Jenn-Air JJW8230D Electric Double Oven

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Jenn-Air Master
  • 43,501 Answers

Hi,
Either you have a bad heating element of your have a wire that has rubbed or burnt through...
The best way to find the problem is with an ohm meter to check out where the short is...

heatman101

Posted on Sep 16, 2010

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Main oven wont come on or the light but the fan does


Hi, I hope I can help you. If you're referring to the overhead fan above the oven, that fac is usually on a separate circuit. The oven itself is connected to a separate circuit breaker, hence, that is why the oven and light won't come on.
Check your circuit breaker box, and see what circuit has tripped. Check to see if there are any burn marks around the breaker before resetting it.
The reason the breakers may trip, is the breaker is old, may have the incorrect rating, or may be linked to other circuits, such that when too many items are all drawing power at once, it will trip the breaker.

Feb 02, 2016 | Ovens

1 Answer

Why oven not heating


Bad element, bad switch or other electrical problem. You could double check switch by turning on broiler element to see if that
gets hot. If so then either oven thermostat, or element. Did the circuit breaker pop off and then you reset? So there is a short somewhere, especially if it happens again. The above test with broiler element could verify power to oven. If it pops the
circuit breaker again. You need a service technician. Usually the oven requires a dedicated wire to the oven. Don't use the oven again until the problem is resolved. There's a slim possibility
that the circuit breaker needs to be replaced. How long did you use the oven? If a long time circuit breaker is more likely because
when they begin to fail they get too hot and therefore pop. You will need an electrician to change the circuit breaker if that is the problem.

Feb 13, 2015 | GE JKP90 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Thinking about buying a new GE range that has a 3000 watt specification ... our home is sixty years old and wondering if the wiring (240 v) can support the wattage. I don't know the wattage of our old...


Calculating necessary breaker size using ohms laws, says 3000 watts at 240 volts would use 12.5 amps and most range circuit breakers are 30 amp so it should be find

Aug 01, 2011 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

We set our wall oven for self-clean and received an error message after about 4 hours that told us to turn off the circuit breaker. We are unable to turn the circuit breaker back on again.


Hi,
If you cannot turn the breaker back on then it is no good...some breakers do take some very firm effort to get them to come on...but the oven may have ruined the circuit breaker...

Circuit Breaker Keeps Tripping

Self Cleaning Oven Problem


heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!!

Dec 26, 2010 | Thermador SC302T Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

My oven says F1 and it won't shut off. I have to use the breaker. What does F1 mean? What do I do? Is it an easy to fix?


Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.

Oct 26, 2010 | Kenmore 44494 / 44495 / 44499 Electric...

1 Answer

Keep getting F1 error code (constant beep) on my GE profile oven.


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
%#$TEF

Mar 18, 2010 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

DeLonghi EOF260 tripping the circuit breaker


It is probably an element that is causing the trouble, as it gets hotter, the insulation resistance breaks down, and if there is a weak spot or hot spot it causes the trip to operate.
I'm afraid it is a question of elmination, trying different functions, until you isolate the problem.

Feb 09, 2010 | DeLonghi Ovens

1 Answer

GE Profile Oven/Range Constantly displaying -F1- Error code.


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
%^&ytg

Aug 26, 2009 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Bottom oven of dacor double oven


I found the lower circuit breaker had been tripped. That didn't fix the problem but upon further inspection whoever had worked on the unit years ago had dropped a screwdriver that had lodged between the oven wall and the rear casing and shorted out the lower heating element. I removed the screwdriver and oven works fine now. I don't think that will solve the cmmclow problem but maybee the curcuit breaker is tripped.

Dec 25, 2007 | Dacor ECS230 Epicure Electric Double Oven

Not finding what you are looking for?
Jenn-Air JJW8230D Electric Double Oven Logo

Related Topics:

173 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Jenn-Air Ovens Experts

 Fix Your Board
Fix Your Board

Level 3 Expert

310 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

Cindy Wells

Level 3 Expert

5129 Answers

Are you a Jenn-Air Oven Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...