Question about Velodyne CHT-10 Subwoofer

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No sound Will give bass for a short period of time, if I power it off on back on it will work for another short period, capacitor?

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  • dcksjk Aug 05, 2008

    I have the exact same problem with my CHT-10 Velodyne. I always have to turn off the power switch and then turn it back on for it to work for a SHORT period of time. It does not feel hot to the touch and has no hot odor. I didn't understand the solution given for the same problem I am having. My email is dcksjk@comcast.net and would certainly appreciate any help you may be able to give to me.

  • fredjones May 11, 2010

    On the back of the unit, find the "auto on" switch, set this switch so the unit is always on. When in this mode, does the unit work fine?



    If yes then it is a setting adjustment you need to make with your system. The sub out put is too low to keep the sub on. rasie the sub out put on your source unit, then lower the sub volume to mach the rest of the speakers,

  • fredjones May 11, 2010



    Is this problem all the time?



    Only during a movie?



    Does it play all the time when listening to music

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Overheating and powering itself down... will it stay on if you play it quieter.

Posted on May 17, 2008

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I had my speakers 3/4 volume and they were fine. later they just started making a quiet crackling and the bass seems to not be in the sound, so it sounds tinny.


If you feel happy to do it I would take out a driver and try to look at the capacitors on the crossover for any leakage and if you have a multimeter handy check that the ohm's on the bass driver to see if they are within the stated range,a continuity test or a 9v battery across the bass terminals should tell if coil is broken,also is this just on the one speaker or both?

Oct 04, 2016 | JBL Speakers & Subwoofers

1 Answer

Humming BX8


Hi,

I would have to agree on the possibility of the power supply/capacitor, zener,/regulator and/or diodes.. I sincerely doubt if the circuitry inside would be that too complicated and expect that you can wing it. Other than the power supply, perhaps you may also consider:
1. grounding/shielding of the signal input; and
2. a partial short in the amp section thereby drawing excessive current which would result to the humming sound.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

May 25, 2008 | M-Audio Studiophile BX8a Speaker

2 Answers

No sound from one tweeter


Could be an open capacitor in the cross-over, unconnected wire to the tweeter (not likely) or a blown (open) voicecoil in the tweeter. Remove the tweeter and with a 9 volt battery (even run down but not dead will work) quickly touch it to the connections to the tweeter - it should pop and crackle. No static, the tweeter has sung it's last song.

Apr 08, 2011 | Acoustic Research AR 318PS Speaker

1 Answer

Works great for a period of time then- it starts a pulsating hum. Sometimes it happens after 30 minutes and other times it is a couple of hours before it starts.


it sounds like a bad sub woofer amplifer, as the unit heats up the capacitors start to leak and the amp will try to shut down. it would depend on how hard you are driving it, (heavy bass versus light bass) that would cause it to fail sooner than later. You need to replace the internal amp

Mar 20, 2011 | Velodyne DPS-10 Subwoofer

1 Answer

No sound from tweeter bx5a


First of all, never connect the audio from your receiver directly to the tweeter. You can blow the tweeter instantly. The mid-bass driver can be damaged from a direct connection as well.

Since you get absolutely no sound from either driver, this seems to implicate the crossover. If the crossover has opened, no signal gets through, if it has opened early in the signal path.

But, it is also possible that a short exists, and that perhaps your amp cuts off the output having sensed a short. The short could be in the crossover or one of the drivers.

Here are some troubleshooting tips--

To prevent damage to your amp, turn it off while making or breaking any connections inside the speaker boxes.

Write down which wires get connected to which place on the drivers, so you can get them back where they belong.

With your amp turned off, connect the bad speaker to your amp. You've already verified that no sound is produced when both drivers are connected.

So, with your amp off, disconnect one wire from the tweeter in the bad box.

Briefly turn your amp on and listen for sound.

If you get sound, the tweeter is shorted.

If you get no sound, with the amp off, reconnect the tweeter in the bad box and disconnect one wire from the mid-bass driver.

Briefly turn the amp on and listen before turning the amp off.

If you get sound now, but not before, the mid-bass driver is shorted.

If you got no sound either way, check the DC resistance of the mid-bass driver (only, not the tweeter. Ohmmeters put out a small DC voltage to test resistance. That DC voltage might damage a tweeter, maybe. Don't risk it). Ohm the mid-bass driver while it is not connected to the crossover. If the driver is good, you should read some ohms--a little less than the stated impedance. An 8 ohm driver might read 6.5 ohms, for instance. If you get an open or a short (with the crossover disconnected from the mid-bass driver) you have a blown driver. Two actually, since neither the tweeter nor the mid-bass driver produced any sound in the previous tests.

If you can't get ahold of an ohmmeter, try this--

Open the good, working speaker and place the two side by side.

Connect your amp to the bad speaker box only.

With your amp turned off, disconnect the wires from the mid-bass driver in the bad box and connect them to the mid-bass driver in the good box. Disconnect one of the wires from the "good" mid-bass driver first, so you don't have two crossovers connected to it at the same time--even if only one of them will get powered on. It keeps the confusion down to a minimum when trying to isolate your problem. Oh, and disconnect one wire from the bad tweeter, in case it is shorted.

Turn the amp on and listen briefly before turning the amp off.

If you got sound, the "bad" crossover is fine, but the "bad" mid-bass driver is blown. And, since you got no sound in the previous tests, the "bad" tweeter is blown, as well.

If you got no sound, try it the other way around. Meaning--

With the amp off, disconnect the speaker wires coming from your amp from the bad speaker box and connect them to the good speaker box.

Your amp is now connected only to the good speaker box.

With the amp still off, connect the mid-bass wires from the good box to the mid-bass driver in the bad box. Remember to disconnect one of the "bad" crossover wires from its own driver first, so only one crossover is connected to the "bad" mid-midbass driver. Remember to disconnect one wire from the "good" and "bad" tweeters, so the only sound you hear--if any--is from the "bad" mid-bass driver, powered by the "good" crossover.

If this produces sound, but the previous attempts failed, you have a crossover problem.

If you still get no sound, something went wrong and you need to retest the good speaker by itself and back up a few steps and try again.

Assuming you got sound from the "good" crossover while it was driving your "bad" mid-bass, make sure no wires have come loose inside the "bad" box. Assuming you have sound connections at each end of each wire, you now need to desolder the electrolytic capacitors from the circuit board.

Make sure you mark them first, so you can put them back where they belong.

You can remove only one at a time, if that helps.

Use an ohmmeter to check some components.

The big red coil should read pretty close to a short, maybe one ohm.

The capacitors should read open or infinite resistance, although you might see a steadily increasing resistance while the capacitor charges up from the ohmmeter. If you read a steady low resistance on a capacitor after it has been removed from the circuit board, that capacitor is bad and must be replaced. The markings on the capacitor should give you some clues as to the proper replacement.

All things considered, I suspect that your problem is a shorted electrolytic capacitor. But, I gave you all I could think of so you can narrow it down and isolate the problem, whatever it might be.

I hope this helps.

Feb 23, 2011 | M-Audio BX5a Speaker

4 Answers

Loud hum out of BaseCube 12 subwoofer


Actually I"m having the same problem. It is most probably the capacitors on the power supply internally. they are known to dry out and go back. cheap easy fix by a competent electronics repair facility. Also Cambridge will fix it for $75 plus shipping

Apr 20, 2010 | Cambridge Soundworks BassCube 12 Speaker

1 Answer

I have hooked this up to a working reciever that


Fill in the blanks about the working receiver.

You mention another subwoofer, which suggests your receiver manages the bass and possibly sends most or all of it to the sub.

If it's NOT sending the bass to the speaker terminals you use to drive the AM5 that would explain it's virtually silent bass module.

If those speaker terminals on your receiver can be set to LARGE, do it. Otherwise they assume the speakers are incapable of handling bass.

Apr 02, 2010 | Bose Acoustimass 5 III System

1 Answer

No sound coming out of my Onkyo SKW-200 subwoofer


A subwoofer is just really a mono amp for the signal. As with all amps if you touch the audio section/parts with a small screwdriver, you should hear a buzz from the speaker. (Follow the audio wires to be certain you are on the audio section). This can be used for testing the amp section. If you get no buzz or noise (anywhere) at all then it's power supply could be playing up. If you have a multimeter you can test it looking to see if it is getting power. Allways suspect any part that is on a heatsink. Before removing any suspect you can put the part numbers into Google to see if you can get them and it will give you a clue to cost.
PS don't short any parts when you touch with a screwdriver, and don't put it on the power parts.

Feb 02, 2010 | Onkyo SKW-200 Subwoofer

3 Answers

Bass Cube 12 makes loud buzzing noise when turned on !


Hi Ok thanks. I cannot be 100 % sure about this without seeing it but it sounds alot like there is a power supply issue, either bridge rec or caps. Caps are very often very obvious. If you get into it and have a look at what is normally the 2 or 4 biggest capacitors at the start/power supply of the board and see if they are ok visibily. If they are bulged, (often they actually explode and leave paper residue) then those are what need to be replaced. Have a look and see.

If its the bridge rec, it could be 4 diodes, fairly large next to each other or a square component with 4 legs out. Need a meter to test, but i would start at caps first
All the best

Aug 03, 2009 | Cambridge Soundworks BassCube 12 Speaker

1 Answer

No output from Bose Lifestyle 12 system


Sounds like you have a problem in the circuits, which of course would take an experience technician to find and repair. But a 1994 electronic item has pretty much reached the end of its expected life cycle (sadly, compared to older equipment which is still working great). Basically, it sounds like the power amp circuit is shutting down a few seconds after startup. Might check to make sure no speakers or cables have shorts, which could activate a protection shutdown circuit. If any of the cubes don't hiss when you turn it on, that would be the first place to look for a problem.

Jul 01, 2008 | Bose Acoustimass 15 System

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