I would like more technical details regarding my R1C1. For example, what is the difference between command mode and close-up mode? Technical details, please.
Also, what is the difference insetting the two units to the same group or different groups if they are both 1:1?
Why doesn't my D2x record that flash is being used?
I could go on and on - I really would like a complete description of operation.
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Re: more info re R1C1
This question is far beyond the scope of a single posting on FixYa. Entire books could be written on the subject. In fact, they have been. Both Lark (http://www.larkbooks.com) and Rocky Nook (http://www.rockynook.com) have books dedicated to the Nikon Creative Lighting system.
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I'm guessing from the mention of a Samsung Galaxy cell that you're using your phone's mobile hotspot to provide internet access to a notebook or other PC with Windows. If this is incorrect, please provide additional info as to how you're getting internet access.
A number of things can cause slow internet speeds. 1) distance between you and the cell tower, 2) Data technology 3G, 4G etc., 3) method of connection between your cell phone and PC - obviously a direct connection via USB would be best, but a WiFi or BT should do well enough - if - close by, 4) multiple hotspots in close proximity cany make it impossible for your phone to create a hotspot on a clear channel. Experiment a bit and if still no luck, provided more details about your connection.
It sounds like you're trying to use the SB-600 off camera, as a slave flash. While the SB-600 does indeed have slave capability, the D40 does not have the ability to function as a commander. Thus, the SB-600 is being triggered by the D40's pre-flash.
As stated above, the D40 does not function in commander mode. You can mount an SB-800 or SB-900 flash unit, which will function as a commander as well as a flash. Or you can mount an SU-800 commander unit.
Alternatively, you can switch the D40 to manual flash mode so as to eliminiate the preflash. However, you will then have to calculate the proper exposure yourself.
I am working on a solution to address this very problem for a D70. Be VERY careful about using unverified information on suitable non genuine flashguns.
There is a lot of info if you care to Google search for trigger voltages for flashguns. There is one list that has some highly doubtful info as the persons measuring the voltage used the wrong type of meter.
Ideally a cathode ray oscilloscope with a minimum 10 megohm input impedance should be used to look for high voltage spikes.
If a digital multimeter with a 10 meghom input impedance was used you may get fairly close to the true trigger voltage but the DMM will not reveal any spikes.
Analogue multimeters should never be used as their input is too low and they WILL load the circuit giving an incorrect low voltage reading where you think you will be safe when you are NOT.
You probably haven't changed the camera and/or flash back to TTL mode from wireless mode. Make sure they are both set to TTL, not commander mode and you should be fine. Note that the LCD on the flash will indicate which mode it is with a little graphic. On the D70 you had to switch between TTL and Commander mode to set it up to work using the built in flash as the commander, so you just have to switch back.
This flash is a superb budget alternative to the Minolta alternatives
but is only suitable for their film cameras. Sony's SLR's are based on
the later Minolta Digital SLR's and they're all incompatible with this
The technical differences between the film and digital Minolta cameras
explains why a Minolta 5600HS (for example) had to be redesigned and
redesignated as a 5600HS(D). The former will not work on Sony Alpha
models, but the latter is fully compatible.
2. I haven't managed to find a manual for this model in my stock room and failed to trace one online.