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Gas dryer burner ignites ,gets hot then kicks off.when burner tries to come back on you can hear the solenoid trieing to come on but only hear buzzing. if you wait a while and try again this will rep

Whirlpool

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  • daddygumshoe Sep 10, 2008

    Amana ALG331RAW Starts out with heat and then the gas shuts down and the ignitor keeps coming on and the gas does not. It seems to be intermittent.

  • daddygumshoe Sep 10, 2008

    Amana ALG331RAW Starts with heat and then the gas shuts down and it keeps tring to start but it will not turn on the gas to heat. Any help would be greatly appricated

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Posted on May 17, 2008

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1 Answer

Runs but not getting hot


check the gas supply pressure. if not within required pressure consult the gas company. if there is no problem with gas pressure get to the back of the unit to check the fuse for the gas solenoid valve that controls the flow of the gas. if solenoid valve is faulty, replace it with a good one . . if after installing a new solenoid valve unit still does not kick in , check the igniter . replace with a good one if it is broken , the unit should produce heat now .thanks.

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LG DLG7188WM gas dryer is not igniting


There are 3 things that will make a gas dryer not ignite. 1. the main controller 2. high limit thermostat, which disconnects power to the igniter if the dryer overheats 3. the electronic or electric igniter. There are 2 types of igniters static that sounds like a ticking noise before it lights and a thermal that glows red hot to ignite the burner. Most dryers will attempt to ignite 3 times and will shut down if the burner does Not ignite to keep unburned gasses from being expelled.
With the front cover off also called the kick pan, look at the burner assembly and you will either see the spark igniter (like a giant spark plug) or the thermal igniter glow red hot. If the igniter does not activate, and the drum is turning, it is either the igniter, or the high limit thermostat stuck in the open position and needs to be replaced.
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1 Answer

LG5791XSWO


The symptom you have indicates weak solenoid coils. The gas valve should open and the burner should ignite every time the glow bar igniter glows before it fades back off. Weak solenoid coils will usually open the gas valve until the solenoids become hot from the current and flame and then they don't have enough power to open the gas valve.

Replace both solenoid coils and your dryer will most heat and operate normally again. In order to access and replace the solenoid coils you will need to remove the front panel.

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Nov 06, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore 700 series gas dryer .runs but no heat


There are several things that can cause this problem. It could be a defective hot surface igniter, inop thermostat, bad gas solenoid valves ect. You will first need to check and see if the hot surface igniter is coming on. You can verify this by turning on the dryer and then watching for the hot surface igniter to start glowing from the burner inspection hole at the bottom of the dryer(or remove the front/back panel if no window). It should glow very bright. Then after it is glowing to it's brightest point you should then hear a click(the sound of the gas valve solenoid opening) and the burner should come on. There are two gas valves in the system as a safety so you could have one valve that is bad. When the gas valves are charged they should be magnetized on the top of the valves. You can also give these valves a light tap to see if they are sticking. The gas valve solenoids and bad igniter are the most common cause of inop gas dryers. It could also be a bad thermostat or high limit cut off switch is open. Take a look at the dryer and let me know what you find. Also be careful doing any work on your dryer without the proper tools and knowledge. You could hurt yourself from electrical shock or explosion if you are not careful.

Feb 18, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Gas dryer does not get very hot.


the dryer dries after two or three tries

Dec 29, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer spins but dosen't get hot


Since you indicated that it had an igniter I assume you have a natural gas or propane model. I had some trouble with a Hotpoint dryer and replaced the igniter. That didn't solve the problem. I then decided to just change the gas solenoid and the flame sensor at the same time and it worked fine again. I got them both cheap from Ebay from the same seller.

The flame sensor tells the machine if the ingiter was able to light the gas burner. If it doesn't sense the heat it will turn off the gas solenoid so your house doesn't fill with gas. The gas solenoid is an electrical valve that lets the gas flow into the burner. You should be able to hear the gas solenoid click when it opens and then your igniter will glow and start the flame. If it shuts itself off within a minute of that then I would suggest the flame sensor as a starting point. If it never clicks then I would start with the solenoid.

Good Luck and post back here if you solve it for the next person with your trouble.

-- Kevin

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My whirlpool gas dryer model no LGR7646A has no heat, not sure iof this has a pilot or not, if not could it be some sort of safety switch taht shut down the dryer


I am 99% sure it is electronic ignition. There a dryers that had pilots but those are very old. So what you can do is start with the basics. Make sure the gas valve for the dryer is on and there is gas pressure coming from the connector. Make sure there is no debris blocking gas flow in the gas line. If the dryer has a removable door or burner inspection hole on the bottom pull it loose with a screw driver otherwise you will need to remove the back cover of the dryer. Turn on the dryer and watch for the hot surface igniter to come on. It will glow very bright then you should hear the gas solenoid valve click and the burner should come on. If the solenoid opens and the igniter does not come on inspect the burner orfice for any blockage. If the igniter does not come on then you will need to test the igniter for the proper ohm reading with a fluke meter. You will need to verify the igniter is getting power. If the igniter tests good it might be a bad solenoid valve(there are two) or a grounding issue.

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3 Answers

My GE Dryer, model number Model# DSXH43GV1WW doesn't heat up anymore. The dryer turns on, the drum spins, in all the three types of available cycles, just no heat at all. Any ideas?


First make sure that the gas valve is on. Then verify that the gas connector is not kinked or restricted. then remove the connector at the back of the dryer and make sure there is gas pressure. Then visually inspect the pipe at the back of the dryer. Use a flashlight to inspect inside the pipe and make sure there is no debris inside the pipe that could restrict gas flow. On this dryer there is no removable burner door cover on the front or inspection window so you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer. Once the panel is removed you can turn on the dryer. You should first hear a click sound. That is the first gas solenoid valve opening. Then the igniter should start to glow. Once the igniter reaches 2200 degrees the secondary gas solenoid valve should click and the burner will come on. If you do not hear a click when the dryer is first turned on you will need test the first gas solenoid valve. Make sure it is getting voltage with a fluke meter. You can also touch a piece of metal to the top of the valve and the top should be magnetized when active. If you hear the first click but no igniter glow then verify the igniter is getting voltage and test the igniter with a fluke meter. You will need to test the ohms and most should be 500 to 700 ohms. If the igniter does not get a good reading or none it is probably defective and needs replacement. Usually most places that sell appliance parts will test the igniter for free. Just because the igniter glows does not mean that it is good. It can glow but not reach the 2200 degrees needed for the proper operation. Now if the igniter is good and you hear a second click then there might be a restriction somewhere in the gas line between the solenoids or the gas orfice at the burner. The sensor Gort was talking about is the flame rectification sensor and can detect the flame. It is rare for this to be faulty but not impossible. If you get flame for a couple seconds and then it shuts off it could be this sensor. Blow the burner assembly and this area off with compressed air and lint can block the sensor's ability to detect the burner flame. Also I believe your dryer has a larger fan blower than standard dryers. If this blower motor is not working the rest of the system will not come on. make sure the assist fan is working and that the vacuum switch is working and not stuck. Also check the vacuum line is not disconnected or restricted. And always remember that there are exposed power connections inside the dryer that could shock you and cause injury. use caution and if you do not feel comfortable working on this you might want to call a professional.

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1 Answer

Gas Dryer won't stay hot


There is a thermoelectric eye that says it is OK to keep the gas burner on. If this sensor is defective or blocked from "seeing" the gas flame is properly lit, it will turn off the gas flow (safety) override solenoid. With the unit unplugged make sure that the optical path on the upper right (1:30 CW position) flame tube inside sensor window is clean. The rattle you hear is probably the safety gas shut-off solenoid engaging. If you need more help, please ask -- SWT

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1 Answer

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The problem you are describing is usually associated with a bad gas valve coil. The dryer runs normally until it gets hot, then starts making a strange clicking noise. After it cools down, the dryer runs normally again. The gas valve coils (there are two of them) usually run about $20 a piece. I recommend replacing both of them at the same time just to be sure. I hope this helps.

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