Question about Frigidaire GLEQ2152ES Electric Dryer

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How do you replace the thermal limiter fuse. Or actually how do you remove the top to get access to the fuse?

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  • rbcooper Sep 16, 2010

    My dryer has two latch fittings on the rear top panel that attach to the top of the cabinet. The thermal fuse is attached to the rear panel. Is there any way to open the top without having to remove the whole front of the cabinet to get to the this thermal switch? Certainly would save a whole lot of work.

    I believe the model number is actually GLEQ642CA (well it is actually 417.49012890 but for all intents and purposes it is similar to the GLEQ642CA)





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Here is a service manual that will show you everything you will need.

Posted on Sep 17, 2010

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Opening the cabinet of Frigidaire models

Note: Disconnect the power source to your dryer before you begin to open its cabinet. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel. There should be a removable kickplate found at the bottom of the dryer. Remove this kickplate by removing the two screws found at the bottom. Let the kickplate drop down just a little to disengage the two pins found on its top.
If your dryer has an enamelled top, you can raise it by releasing the two spring catches found under it. Use a putty knife (or some other thin and flat object) to push in on and disengage each catch.
Remove the two screws (some models will have four) that secure the bottom of the front panel. As you remove the front panel, disconnect the door switch and any other wiring, taking careful note of which wires are to be reconnected where.
If your dryer has a galvanized top, remove the screws from the front panel, and then remove the front panel itself. As you remove the front panel, disconnect the door switch and any other wiring, taking careful note of which wires are to be reconnected where.

Testing a thermal fuse

Note: Disconnect the power source to your dryer before you conduct this or any other test. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.
Testing a dryer's thermal fuse is much like testing its thermostats. Follow these steps to replace your dryer's thermal fuse.
The wires leading to the thermal fuse are connected using metal slip on connectors. Remove the wires by pulling on the connectors, and not the wires themselves. It may be a good idea to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to help you.
Set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermal fuse should produce a reading of zero. But if a thermostat is tested when it is heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. We strongly recommend that you test your thermostat at room temperature.
If the test you conduct with your thermostat does not produce these results, then you should replace the component

Typical fuse picture

How do you replace the - c87a93f.gif

Posted on Sep 16, 2010


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My Frigidaire Dryer is not heating anymore. Repair and testing for model...


The example is referring to Frigidaire electric dryer model FEX831CSO. If you have a different model see here how to locate parts and diagrams: Where do I find parts and diagrams?

First part to test is the thermal fuse located at the back of the appliance. This is tested reading Ohms on fuse contacts. follow procedure explained further below to test the fuse.

If the fuse is not the culprit, it will be neccessary to access heater assembly and thermostats.

You access the heater parts by opening the top panel, part 3 on diagram below.

The heater assembly is part of the housing, and it is part 15 on diagram.

Replacing the heater requires further disassembly, first ensure that the problem is not a defective thermostat or thermal limiter. The thermostats fails far more commonly than the heater.

To test heater and thermostat use a multimeter set at Rx1. disconnect the thermostat contacts and read impedance at room temperature.
If the thermostat is good it will read zero or very low impedance.
An alternative way to test a thermostat is by jumping its contacts.

The element is also tested reading impedance. If the element has no continuity (infinite Ohms), then it must be replaced, otherwise it is good.

Test both the thermostat and the Thermal limiter, they are tested in the same way. Both this parts are accessible after removing the top panel, and can be replaced without further disassembling.

Here the parts:

Thermostat:PS446428 part 33 in diag.

Thermal limiter:PS419402 , part 36 in diag.


Test and repair must be done by a trained person. Call the phone number listed on the user manual if you need to contact a qualified technician.


on Apr 09, 2010 | Frigidaire FEX831CS Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

Kenmore he2 spins but won't heat. new thermistor installed due to no continuity,. thermal fuse, heating element , high limit thermostat all have cintinuity. whats my next move?

The heater could be giving you a false reading, did you actually remove the heater and touch each section with you finger to find a break. I will help you more if you need it, also make sure you have 220 volts to your dryer

Feb 01, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

LG electric dryer is not heating. Electric coils test for continuity. Any suggestions?

There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating. UNPLUG DRYER BEFORE TESTING ANYTHING.
1- power- Test the receptical to make sure you are getting 220 volts. To do this you need and voltage tester. Both legs should pull 110 and together 220. If one leg is not pulling any power than your breaker is half tripped. Reset breaker to cure your problem. If problem persist it is in the breaker or receptical.
2- cord- To test this unplug dryer. Take the panel covering the cord connections off. Remove cord entirely from dryer. Test each leg for continuity. If any are not showing cont than replace cord.
3- Themal fuse- To test this remove access back access panel on some front panel. By the blower housing there is a fuse white thin sliver or round fuse with 2 wires going to it. The one with 4 wires is your low limit cycling thermistat. The thermal fuse is near that. Disconnect the 2 wires and check fuse for continuity. If meter shows cont fuse it good. If not replace fuse.
4- Hi Limit Thermistat- test same way as thermal fuse. On the heating element housing at the bottom are 3 wires running to a fuse. Test the left and right. The bottom is attached to one of the sides.
5- Thermal Cutoff- Test same way as thermal fuse. This fuse is near the top of the heating elemnt above the Hi Limit. 2 wires with usually plastic covers on them.
6- Heating Element- Below high limit 2 wires. Test for continuity.
If all these fuses are good than you may need to call a technician. The motor may not be getting to the right rpm to activate the senfrigrial switch in the moter. Timer or control board may be out.
7- Motor- If

Jul 16, 2011 | LG DLE2514 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Running but not u know if there is more than 1 thermal coupler

there are actually 3 plus a thermal fuse,1 is on the heater element box that the hi limit,then the2nd one is above the hi limit on the duct about a foot up,then the 3rd thermal and thermal fuse is on the back side of the blower wheel housing,you almost need to remove the blower wheel and the back section of the housing to examine.test these 2

Apr 16, 2011 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do you install a thermal fuse kit on a Magic Chef CYE4000AYW. Unlike other models it doesn't look like you can just take the back panel off; do you really have to take the top and back off?

The thermal fuse kit is accessible from the top of the dryer. Disconnect power and using a putty knife, release the two spring clips holding the top cover to the cabinet. Insert the putty knife in the seam between the top cover and the cabinet at about 4 inches from the sides. Lift the top cover when the first spring clip is released while releasing the second clip then lift the top cover to the rear of the dryer.


The high-limit thermostat is located on top of the heater housing at the rear of the dyer. Remove the screw that secures the high-limit thermostat bracket and replace the thermostat.


The thermal fuse is located on the right hand side of the heater housing and is mounted on a bracket. There's a 1/4" hex-head screw that holds both the heating element and thermal fuse brackets. Remove the screw and the thermal fuse bracket can be lifted off.


The thermal fuse bracket has two locating tabs, one at the bottom and the other is half-way up. Lift the bracket to clear the tabs then remove it and replace the thermal fuse. Reinstall the thermal fuse and high-limit thermostat brackets in reverse order of the removal steps. Press down on the top cover against the cabinet to reengage the spring clips.

Apr 05, 2011 | Magic Chef Dryers

2 Answers


If this is a Whirlpool ELECTRIC dryer, you have a Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) and a Thermal Fuse. Do not confuse the two of them.

The TCO is mounted on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the Heating Element terminals. There is another component mounted on the heater box adjacent to the TCO known as the "Hi-Limit" Thermostat. If either of these components fails, the dryer will still ru, but will not heat. In addition, if either of these components fail, you must replace the two of them at the same time to avoid premature failure. They are commonly sold as a set.

The Thermal Fuse is located on the air blower housing. It is a small plastic component with two wire leads. There is another component mounted adjacent to it known as the "Internal Bias Thermostat". If the Thermal Fuse fails, the dryer will not run at all.

To access any of these components will depend on how the dryer is configured. BASIC RULE OF THUMB:

If the lint screen filter is on the TOP of the dryer, the heating and blower assembly components are located in the REAR of the dryer. You will need to remove the back panel for access.

If the lint screen filter is located in the DOOR, the heating and blower assembly components are under the drum and accessed by lifting the top panel and removing the front panel of the dryer.

If you have any questions, please post back with a MODEL NUMBER, so that I may be able to determine how your dryer is configured. I hope this helps you.

Feb 20, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

I have a Bosch next dryer that doesn't get hot???

there is a reset button on the hi limit thermal fuse located on the side of the heating elment can. this can be accessed by removing all the screws on the back apnel of the dryer( Make Sure the Dryer is Unpluged).once the back panel is removed there will be a black thermal fuse with two wires attache and a smalle red button between the wires bush this button in and this will reset the thermal fuse .if you have an ohm meteer check the continuity of the elment and verify that it is good.i hope this helps good luck with your dryer.let me know how things work

Jan 20, 2010 | Bosch Nexxt WTMC 3300 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Maytag LSE7806ACE dryer stopped working

pry the top up at the corners and remove attaching screws for the front panel and remove carefully. Now you should be able to see the canister that contains the heat element and the thermal fuse. If your thermal fuse is bad you also need to replace the high limit thermostat switch which is located on the canister itself and check that the heating element is not broken anywhere throughout the coil.

Apr 05, 2009 | Maytag LSE7806A Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer (electric )

You will need to UNPLUG the dryer and remove the back panel to access. The heating element is located inside the heater box on the right-hand side of the dryer (facing from the back). Simply disconnect, the wires leads and remove the mounting screws to remove. mentioned removing the thermal fuse. Did you check the thermal cut-out or the hi-limit thermostat? These components are small silver disc-shaped devices mounted on the heater box assembly. As you are facing the back of the dryer, the hi-limit thermostat is located near the terminal connections of the heating element. The thermal cut-out is located farthest away from the heating element closer to the top of the heater box. Usually when you have a no heat problem, it the thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, or heating element that goes bad. If the thermal fuse is bad, you generally have a dryer that not only won't heat, but won't even turn on. I hope I'm not confusing you. In a nut shell, there's a difference between the thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. If you had large accumulations of lint in your dryer, I would bet you have a blown thermal cut-out.

If you wish to check the parts listing yourself to make sure you have the correct parts, go to, type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead" heading. The thermal cut-out kit is what you need to order for a no heat problem. It's listed as item #1 (part #279816). This also includes the hi-limit thermostat. It is recommended by the manufacturer to replace BOTH of these components at the same time. The heating element is listed as item #14 (part #279838).

Look under the "view diagram" heading and you can see where all these components are located, using the exploded view of the dryer assembly. The thermal fuse you mention is listed as item #59 in the drawing and is located on the air baffle housing.

This is still an easy fix. I just want to make sure you're identifying the correct parts. I don't think you want to purchase parts you don't need.

I hope this helps you. If I've managed to confuse you, please post back with your questions and I can guide you in the right direction.

Apr 16, 2008 | Kenmore 43142 Front Load Washer

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