First thing to do in this case are the following observation checks
which do not require any tools, instruments, or taking anything apart.
- Check the spark color. A healthy ignition system will
produce crisp blue sparks. A weak ignition system, on the other hand,
will produce light blue, almost white sparks. The following two checks
can be made by switching the suspected burner with a known operating
These following two checks are done by physical inspection "under the hood":
- Ignite the burner with a match to verify
proper gas supply and air shutter adjustment. Make sure the flame is a
clean blue flame, not yellow and sooty.
- The gap between the ignitor and the burner base is too large. It should be about the thickness of two dimes.
is caked on the ignitor or burner base. Clean the burner caps, heads,
flame spreaders, ignitors...that whole area. HINT: do not use stuff
like Comet because you'll gunk everything up big time. Warm water and
Basic-H are a good choice.
Check the spark frequency.
A healthy spark system will crank out three to five sparks
per second. If yours is a lot slower than this, then the prime suspect
is reverse polarity at the 120vac outlet the range is plugged into. The
picture below shows a 120vac outlet with the proper polarity.THIS flow chart should also be of help..
- Loose wiring connections at the ignitor, the grounding strap, or spark module.
- Broken or pinched ignitor wire between the burner and module.
It could also be a problem with the spark moduel. The spark ignition switches are the little switches attached to the
knob of each surface burner. If the spark module won’t spark no matter
which surface burner switch you turn on, then the spark module is the
Hope that helps!