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Re: Smoke out of TV
My father used to have a saying, "All electronics run on smoke, you let the smoke out of them and they don't work anymore"
Televisions are one of the most complicated devices ever invented by the hand of man. Modern sets seem simple due to the chips that perform very complicated functions.
I would suggest finding a local repair technician that has access to the parts your set may now need and the test equipment required to track down some of the more difficult problems that occur in televisions.
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Well over here in ireland when this happens it usually means that you engine need ti be cleaned.
There is two ways of doing this one is to leave it in for a full engine clean.
The other way is to get it out on the motorway and drive it extremely hard till you see a puff of smoke from it then it will take off very fast which means it is cleaned out.
One thing used many mechanics for diagnosis is: What color was the smoke? White smoke usually means the engine is failing, and can indicate a leaking head gasklet, a cracked block, or a cracked head. This color smoke is from water and/or coolant getting into the cylinders. Black smoke indicated too much fuel, and the engine may be "flooded", indicating a less expensidve fix. Grey smoke indicates oil smoke from worn rings or worn valve stem seals. The white smoke says you should have someone look at this really quickly to see if immediate attention is needed. Be blessed
Black smoke is usually a sign of the accelerator pump set wrong, a choke plate could be partially closed and it could also be a really clogged air filter. If you pulled the air filter and the car turned on with no problems then replace it as this is one of the reasons for black smoke. It's not often a gas vehicle blows black smoke. The vehicle is starving for air. Regards,Tony
Really light smoke often appears blue. That light blue smoke as well as white smoke is oil smoke. (That is why some people will insist that oil smoke is blue...)
That is oil that has seeped into the combustion process. That most often is valve-stem seals/valve guides. The oil under the valve covers on top of the heads runs down the valve stem as the engine sits. (It is pretty unlikely that oil would seep up, past the rings...)
If that is the case, removing the heads and having the valve guides really fixed is the best solution.
You can inspect this problem without that level of disassembly, though.
After removing the valve covers and spark plugs. Turn the engine to get a piston near TDC (but not quite at TDC). You don't want the vale to be able to drop into the cylinder, but you want a little room between the valve and the piston top.
There is a type of valve spring compressor that has a pair of prongs that grip the spring, with a hand-wheel on top to push down on the retainer. Use a valve spring compressor like that to remove the valve-spring-retainer keepers, the valve-spring retainer and the valve spring(s) from 1 valve. Check the side to side play to see how the guide is. Check the condition of the seal. Check all the valves this way, unless you find right away that there is enough wear that rebuilding and reconditioning the head is necessary.
Probably going to cost more than a new one is worth, and then you have still got a "Fixed" unit & in my experience once things start to fail there often is a domino effect. Still if you can get a free "Quote" for a fix, get one and see?