Question about Dryers

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We own an Estate Gas Dryer model EGD4400800. Our trouble began when the timer failed to advance when using the time dry cycle (left side of function dial). We switched to the left side of the timer dial and it worked for a few days. Then no more heat. I tested the four fuses & cutoffs at the rear of the unit and all seemed well. I will check the ignitor and sensor near the gas chamber tomorrow.

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  • dan Sep 23, 2010

    Thanks for the advice.
    I believe my problem to be in the gas release solenoids (spuratic). I discovered an inspection port on the front panel near the burner. There is was able to see the ignitor come on for about ten seconds and then go out. I tried this on all heat cycles of the dryer. Then, another trial, I saw the ignitor go on and I heard a click, and the gas came on. I quickly opened the door interlock.
    I may have cracked this nut but I will have to wait for a good opportunity to button up the front panel. This is the most difficult task for me because I have to prop up the drum while catching the clips at the bottom of the panel.
    Also,you provided me with a clearer wiring diagram than the one that came with the dryer. It still leaves me, however, with two mysteries:
    1) The EOC buzzer has one side connected to the hot line and the other side seems not to head to the neutral side. Yet it works.
    2) The timer motor has one side connected to the hot line and the other side must seek neutral also. Yet I see this is the case for the TIMED DRY cycle but not for the AUTO SENSE DRYING cycles. What did I miss?

  • dan Sep 25, 2010

    This did the trick. I must have had a flaky hold coil because it now reads open. I plan to get both solenoids replaced. This advice has saved me hundreds of dollars.

    My advice to others is to get a gas dryer that has a lower panel in the front to give you quick access to the burner section.

  • dan Sep 25, 2010

    Yep. You got it! The hold coil is open.

    Thanks...

  • dan Sep 28, 2010

    The set of replacement coils came today via fed x. Easy installation. Looks like I'm back in operation. No more trips to the laundermat.
    Again, my sincere thanks.

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  • Master
  • 1,554 Answers

Check first whether the ignitor is glowing red hot or not when the dryer turns on. Also check it for damage. If the ignitor glows red hot then the problem is either the flame/radiant sensor or the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. If the ignitor doesn't glow, check it for damage and if it turns out good, there's a problem in the heating circuit. Refer to the wiring diagram and check the continuity of heating circuit.

Post back the result of the above tests for further troubleshooting should you need it. You don't have to accept or reject and rate this post to add information or post comments and follow-up questions should you need further assistance. But accepting a solution will not stop you from communicating with an expert. You may continue communicating with the expert as long as you need assistance regarding the issue stated herein.

Posted on Sep 16, 2010

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Sep 23, 2010

    The wiring diagram looks messed up based on the connections of the buzzer. The buzzer seems to connect to the same line but never mind since it's working, the wiring diagram may be wrong but not the actual buzzer connection. Regarding the timer motor connection, the timer motor is rated 125/250VAC and can connect to both hot lines or hot and neutral lines so the wiring diagram is correct.

    Since the igniter is glowing red hot, the problem is either of the gas valve solenoid coils or the flame/radiant sensor. Once the igniter glows, the first valve is opened but since the flame/radiant sensor is still cold and its contacts are closed bypassing the coil for the second valve preventing it to open and allow gas to flow. As the igniter glows, it heats up the flame/radiant sensor and the contacts eventually open. This allows the second valve to open and gas to flow and get ignited.

    Make sure the flame/radiant sensor is not dislodged from its position and aligned properly with the opening on the burner cone and the igniter. Remember that the flame/radiant sensor needs to get heated for the contacts to open and allow the second valve to open. Check the gas valve solenoid coils for continuity and replace both if any of then is found with open coil.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Sep 23, 2010

    The wiring diagram looks messed up based on the connections of the
    buzzer. The buzzer seems to connect to the same line but never mind
    since it's working, the wiring diagram may be wrong but not the actual
    buzzer connection. Regarding the timer motor connection, the timer motor
    is rated 125/250VAC and can connect to both hot lines or hot and
    neutral lines so the wiring diagram is correct.



    Since the igniter is glowing red hot, the problem is either of the gas
    valve solenoid coils or the flame/radiant sensor. Once the igniter
    glows, the first valve is opened but since the flame/radiant sensor is
    still cold and its contacts are closed bypassing the coil for the second
    valve preventing it to open and allow gas to flow. As the igniter
    glows, it heats up the flame/radiant sensor and the contacts eventually
    open. This allows the second valve to open and gas to flow and get
    ignited.



    Make sure the flame/radiant sensor is not dislodged from its position
    and aligned properly with the opening on the burner cone and the
    igniter. Remember that the flame/radiant sensor needs to get heated for
    the contacts to open and allow the second valve to open. Check the gas
    valve solenoid coils for continuity and replace both if any of them is found with open coil.

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