Question about Washing Machines
Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often interrelated..
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Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin
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Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning
Posted on Sep 16, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is my failure resolution with DC/UC error codes a common problem with this model;
I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors in the spin cycle, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley hub, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley hub. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley hub and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley hub to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 3.5 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!
I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium and heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a cycle with no dc/uc error codes.
I found a Service repair manual on this site search for this; FAV6800 Manual
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
More than likely you have a electrical timer issue. If so you will have to have serviced.
Check this some units use a belt & pulley for spin & pump check see if you have one & if it is tight.
Also there is a drain spin solenoid on some models located in line with pump.
May also be water level switch hanging out of ajustment telling control circuit water is out. Not likely though unit should still spin.
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
SOURCE: bosch exxcel wf02465 wont spin
We had similar problem, with the spin cycle not working. We opened the 'drain' pipe (front-right bottom side). It was full of lime scale; never been opened for years. We cleaned it up and the spin cycle is now working.
Posted on Sep 13, 2009
Failing at the 11 minute mark is the start of Spin Cycle and is key for clutch malfunction diagnosis see this post for a technicial description. The great folks at Maytag Eng. even hang out there dirty laundry in the Service Manual for the issue of a poor clutch design…. No pun intended….sure :). I could be in left field with my assumptions I’ve got to get my clutch to fail again due to those nasty sticky one-way roller clutches to be 100% dead on.
I agree with the other forum member solution, I own the machine and I feel this could be a clutch issue also. Check out the Tub Displacement Sensor with this check and make sure the transitions change the display from UC (unbalance closed) normal TDS position to UO to (unbalance open). Here is the test TDS Troubleshooting. You don’t need to disconnect the TDS from the Washer frame as I did just do the thru the lid check. Just make sure you pull and push down the tub as I described to make the tub excursions to test the Tub Displacement Sensor. I have not measured at CONN-P3 pin 11 to Control Board common but I believe a DVM would indicate apx +3VDC to +1.5VDC for the excursion limits to produce UC/UO to the LED display.
Here is the Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
If you are a DIY’er or have someone in the family with very basic mechanical skill sets take a look at this post and see if they can follow the clutch maint/repair/replacement process and save yourself some $money$. I would do this just to inspect the roller clutches in the clutch pulley for signs of a tub seal leak (slight to heavy rust). It’s a tight work area but I have hand very solid feedback from many forum members on this board and FIXITNOW.com for this step by step process.
The repair person did nothing wrong if he did not reseat the clutch properly on installation it would have spun off. I would drop the clutch out of the machine and inspect the roller clutches in the clutch hub and if your machine has the upper one-way roller clutch ring . How long has it been since your last clutch repair? I would not spend more than $60 a clutch pulley replacement part. This clutch pulley will work for all series FAV6800AW and FAV9800AW machines. Appliancezone.com keeps changing the link but here is the p/n punch it in their search box…. 25001169 …..
A repair tech that knows what he is doing shouldn’t spend more than 30 minutes in the house to pull the front cover off the machine remove the old clutch and install the new one. Some of the charges I see folks paying for a clutch replacement are out in left field. I hope you or a family member/friend can take this on.
Post back if you have questions or need help. Good Luck Rich
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.
Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:
- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.
In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.
NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.
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Posted on Sep 10, 2010
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