There are three status indicator lights on the top of the amplifier. These are as follows:
1) "Power" (Green): lights to indicate that the amplifier is turned on and operating normally.
2) "Thermal" (Red): lights to indicate that the amplifier has exceeded its safe operating temperature, putting the amplifier into a self-protection mode, which reduces the power output of the amplifier. The red light will shut off and the amplifier will return to normal, full-power operating mode if the heat sink temperature drops back to a safe level.
3) "Low ω" (Amber): lights to indicate that the impedance of the speaker load connected to the amplifier is lower than the optimum impedance load range for the amplifier. When this light is on, a protection circuit engages and reduces the power output of the amplifier. The amber indicator will also light when a short-circuit is detected in the speaker wiring (this can be a short between the positive and negative speaker wires or between either speaker wire and the vehicle chassis).
There is only one condition that will shut down an undamaged 500/1v2 completely... If battery voltage drops below 10 volts, the entire amplifier will shut itself off. The green "Power" indicator on the top of the amplifier will turn off when this occurs. The amplifier will turn back on when voltage climbs back above 10 volts. This may happen in a rapid cycle when bass-heavy program material causes a weak charging system to dip below 10 volts momentarily. If this is happening in your system, have your charging system inspected to make sure it is working properly.
If your amplifier is blinking Green, and no output is coming out of the speaker, you may have internal damage to your 500/1 Amp."My amplifier turns on, but there is no output"
For immediate assistance please call
our Technical Support Department at 954-443-1100
- Check the input signal using an AC voltmeter to measure the voltage from the source unit while an appropriate test tone is played through the source unit (disconnect the input cables from the amplifier prior to this test). The frequency used should be in the range that is to be amplified by the amplifier (example: 50 Hz for a sub bass application or 1 kHz for a full range / high-pass application). A steady, sufficient voltage (between 200mV and 8.0-volts) should be present at the output of the signal cables.
- Check the output of the amplifier. Using the procedure explained in the previous check item (after plugging the input cables back into the amplifier) test for output at the speaker outputs of the amplifier. Unless you enjoy test tones at high levels, it is a good idea to remove the speaker wires from the amplifier while doing this. Turn the volume up approximately half way. 5V or more should be measured at the speaker outputs. This output level can vary greatly between amplifiers but it should not be in the millivolt range with the source unit at half volume. If you are reading sufficient voltage, check your speaker connections as explained below.
- Check to ensure that the speaker wires are making a good connection with the metal inside the terminal block. The speaker wire connectors are designed to accept up to 8 AWG wire. Make sure to strip the wire to allow for a sufficient connection with the metal inside the terminal block.
Otherwise, check this site out for Technical Assistance with your Amp:http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=130
Here is your Manual:http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/13320.pdf