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I DON'T KNOW. FOR EARTH OR GROUND, ANY BARE METAL ROD SHOULD BE OK. MAKE SURE ROD IS NOT INSULATED OR PAINTED AND CONNECTOR HAS
STRONG FIXED CONTACT WHEN GENERATOR IN USE. USE CONTIUITY METER TO TEST.
Check the fuse panel to ascertain "no power" because a fuse had blown. If fuses are OK, use an ohm meter (multi-tester) to ascertain there's zero resistance between the ground wire and a nearby nut, bolt, or metal surface. If ground wire is OK, change setting on multi-tester to 15 DC volts and touch each wire (while black probe is well grounded) to ascertain there's power when the ignition key is "on." If power wire and ground wire is OK, then more likely, the clock is a factory defect. It be cheaper to wear a wrist watch than to replace the clock. You can also get an LCD stick-on clock to attach to your moped instead of spending $$ to replace a non-critical component.
On whirlpool (all manufacture) dryers the ground wire is linked to the center terminal with the white wire and attaches to the cabinet grounding all metal on dryer since on panel attaches to the next making the entire cabinet have continuty through the neutral/ground wire. When connecting 3 wire cord connect the two outside wires to red/black on cord block and center wire to white/center terminal connection on block. For a 4 wire cord red to red black to black white to white and the green to rear of cabinet/any panel near block
(same question listed 2 times gets same answer 2 times)
Your Ruud is a 220 volt AC unit and requires two hot wires and one ground. The ground wire goes to the case inside of the electrical box close to the contactor that the two hot wires connect to. I have included a picture of what the grounding lug looks like so you will have no trouble finding it.
first make sure your power wire is directly hooked to the battery, {make sure ure in line fuse is pulled} power wire that goes to positive of power cap , ground wire is grounded to chasis, now attach aditional power wire to amp and aditonal grond to amp . make sure all conections are solid and tight { also make sure inside of power cap is tight as well after long periods of time the insides loosen } i have 2 -1,000 watt sony xploid amps and 2- 1,200 watt sony expoid subs and they pound hard . i probley should have 2-1.2 farrid caps for what i have but it seems that its holding its own
For a 3-pronged cord, the ground (nuetral) is the middle wire on the cord and is attached to the middle terminal post. the outside wires are attached to the outside posts. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which side.
On 4-pronged cords, there is a fourth green wire that is attached the unit's case for grounding purposes. Which cord you use is dictated by what power outlet you have, 3 or 4-pronged.
If I can help anymore, please let me know.
Best,
G
Ok. Let's simplify this for
you. First and foremost you will want to remove the green wire that
goes from your center cord post connector the to case/cabinet of the dryer. I believe on the Amana dryers they are push on type connectors where they hook to the terminal block. This
is to separate your neutral and grounds within the machine. Some models
used a copper strip instead of a green jumper wire but the idea is the
same.
Now on the new cord the green (ground) wire is supposed to go to the
connection point green jumper wire used to go to on the cabinet. The
white wire (neutral) is supposed to go to the center terminal
connection on the terminal block and the red and black (L1 and L2)
wires can go to either of the outside terminals.
The only difference in a four wire cord application is the
segregation of the electrical neutral and the ground wires.
Good luck, hope this helps you!
It is not suggested that you remove the ground cable. Performing the mod for the ground by soldering a bridge on the circuit board doesn't really do anything either than remove that buzz/ground hum. You've essentially removed the wire that grounds the turntable cabinet to the earth. The buzz is gone, but now your turntable is no longer grounded properly.
I would suggest replacing the ground cable to it's original state, then attach the Monster cables.
If this does not work, then either there is an issue with the soldering to the board, or the board itself might be damaged. You might want to look at the trace paths to make sure none are lifted, or damaged in any way on the board. Another issue might be faulty tonearm wires or not properly soldered wires.
FYI, monster cables are not good for this purpose. I would suggest the following cables:
Your ground wire has come off. Before you do anything else, turn off your dryer at the breakers or unplug it. Be very careful. Check to see if the ground wire at the receptacle is attached. Then check your plug to see if it is properly wired. The ground portion of the plug will be longer than the other 2 or 3 prongs. The ground wire is green in color. So attach it first and then the other 2 or 3. (This varies from machine to machine.) See that the cord to the machine is properly attached as well. If you have a stand that is touching the body it will give you a shock. Follow this and you should be O.K. Lewt me know how this does.
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