Question about Olympus OM-2000 35mm SLR Camera

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I removed my lens and now when i fix it back, the shutter gets stuck in the mirror up position. when i remove the lens again, the mirror swings back without any problem.

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  • Obertelli
    Obertelli Sep 15, 2010

    Do you get the problem with all lenses or just one? You may have to borrow a lens to find out, but the answer is vital as it determines whether the fault is with the lens or with the camera body.

  • girishramana Sep 15, 2010

    thanks, but i've got just the one lens. fact is, i hadn't used the camera for quite some time, and just took the lens off, to see whether the inside was ok. when i put the lens back, the shutter clicks OK, but the mirror stays put in the 'up' position. when i remove the lens, the mirror falls back into place.
    I tried taking it to a couple of camera-shop butchers here, but most of the guys are just kids, and haven't even SEEN a film DSLR ! :-(
    What on earth can i do? I don't want to junk this camera. Some of the best pics i've taken are with this one :-(

  • catchpravu
    catchpravu Mar 07, 2012

    hi, did you find any solution of the problem?I actually am facing the same problem. Exactly the same problem with the same model. Please suggest me on this number or reply here. My no. 09932980953, or e-mail id-



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Something on teh back of the lens is possibly hitting edge of the mirror. Olympus service since 1977. John

Posted on Oct 14, 2010

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Sorry, but if you have no access to other lenses then there isn't any definite way to isolate where the fault is. New batteries aren't the answer as on your model they only power the light meter.

It's very likely to be a lens fault, especially if using either of the two lenses which Cosina usually supplied (the OM2000 is actually a rebadged Cosina with an OM mount and OM viewfinder surround) but that's just a best guess based upon experience. The Cosina lenses have an OM mount and badging, but they are very cheaply made and tend to fall apart. The tiny lens stop screw is a common loss to almost all OM lens models and it prevents the lens from being turned too far when mounting it onto the body. Without the screw, the lens only has to be a tiny bit over-rotated to cause faults similar to yours.

If you hold the lens and look at the mounting with the top of the lens pointing up at the 12 o'clock position, then the screw in question should be just clockwise of the bottom bayonet lug at about the 6:30 position. It's about 1.2mm in diameter and stands proud about 0.8mm. If there's a hole there then the screw has fallen out. Replacing the screw is awkward as the Cosina lenses use screws which are not interchangeable with "real" OM mount lenses, but it only acts as a peg so it's often possible to replace it by epoxy gluing in a short peg of bronze or steel. Temporarily glue the peg before final fixing though as it may need trimming to get it just right. The Cosina lenses also tend to shed screws internally causing either the aperture coupling lever or the stop down lever to be out of their correct positions.

Good luck, and please take a moment to rate my reply.

Posted on Sep 15, 2010


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Try this before spending money on anything:
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If the batteries are flat or missing you wont get LED's to light up and it will set itself to 125 naturally. I know as I have tried it. It could be that the shutter has got stuck on its way down and it is preventing the mirror from coming down as a result this is a mechanical issue, not battery related. The best way I found to release the mirror was to gently, really gently stroke the shutter nearest to the film down towards the groove it goes home in. Recommend a cotton budd so you don't damage the shutter leaves or get grease from your fingers on the movement. This should release the mirror. The next thing to do is try preventing the shutter getting stuck again by removing the bottom plate which will allow you access to the cogs for the shutter. it is tight in there and it is recommended by some that you remove some of the movement to see and clean them up. I did this but it is tricky and it involves winding on the camera and rocking parts out with itself. Not easy to do. The shutter cogs are brass (or look like it) and they may have old oil stuck inbetween the teeth which needs cleaning out with a tooth pick and then lubricate but not with WD40 which gets sticky with age. Use a cotton budd again with the lubricant on so you don't affect other sensitive parts around this section. Alternatively send the camera for a good service. I just had mine done, got it sorted with a warranty for 12 months to and cost me just £45. They cleaned everything up, new light seals and sorted issues common to this model of camera. The photos are instantly back to their best. Compare a good service to a series of wasted film with an inconsistent camera. Peace of mind too, it is worth it and so is the camera!

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Can't see through viewfinder (it's all black) and cannot trip shutter or advance film. batteries are new and intact.

Remove the lens and look inside it. Do you see the mirror? If not, your mirror is stuck in the up position. Its flat up against the focusing screen. If the mirror is down, the problem is in the lens, or you still have the lens cap in place.
Check your manual under troubleshooting.
Try setting the shutter speed dial to the M90 position.
Also be sure the batteries are inserted correctly!!!!

If no change yet, you can try to put the mirror back down yourself. With the lens removed, set the camera on its back. You can use your fingers, but I suggest a toothpick cuz they won't leave fingerprints on the mirror and the toothpick should break before you exert enough pressure to really break something. So just try to return the mirror to the 45 degree angle within the mirror box. Be careful not to damage anything in there, like the shutter or the arms that raise and lower the mirror. Depending on where you live, there may be some corrosion or rust on the mirror linkage. It should move easily. If you feel any roughness when you move the miror, that may be the reason it did not return on its own. Then turn it on, off again. At some point, you may want to have this camera cleaned, lubricated and Adjusted(CLA) - after all, its over 25 yrs old.
If all that did not work, you'll need to send it in. Here are some good choices for repair places...
Garry Airapetov in Niles, ILL
Camera Repairs in Avon, IN.
BTW here's a website with several pages about FG...
copy and paste it into your browser.

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Try to take off the battery and reset the camera. You can also try to remove the lens and check the mirror opening..see if there is some thing stuck there. You can try to click the shutter while the lens is removed. If this procedure didn't work I suggest calling Nikon for further repairs.

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I am unable to view through the viewfinder. I have taken out the film, and I can even fire the shutter, and the view finder is still black. I removed the lens and the issue is still there. Any help would...

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merry christmas! :) Your shutter is broken.

Apr 01, 2009 | Photography

2 Answers

I have the mirror box lever problem in a spotmatic

Ok, the problem may well be the mirror charge latch. This is very commonly the cause of failure to wind or fire. The catch will be out of sync with the charging lever etc and so the mirror springs will not stay tensioned.

If it is, the cammera will be stuck with the shutter charged (Cocked) but will not fire because the mirror has not been properly primed. (The shutter is actually fired by the mirror. The shutter button actually releases the mirror.)

The locking arm keeps the main mirror spring tensioned until the closing shutter blind has fully closed. The blind roller engages with a gear which releases the

Remove the bottom cover. There is a long lever shiny arm engaging a crank-pin on winder gear extending to a point just below camera-right of the lens mount. It pivots on a large screw, and there is a largish wire spring which extends to engage a small hole in the end of a lever near the arm end, that dissapears into the camera.

The lever with the hole in it is the mirror charging arm, the long shiny lever pushes this towards the front of the camera to tension the mirror springs, when the film advance is operated.

Next to this is a shorter arm which extends over a gear at one end and is free at the other. This is the latch. The gear wheel engages a small pinion which is in fact the end of the blind roller for the closing curtain/blind. A peg on this gear strikes the other end of the latch to move it out the way and release the mirror tension after the shutter has finished, and this in trun resets the mirror, and releases the winder.

When the mirror is charged the mirror charging arm is held in the tensioned position by the 'free' end of the latch. If the shutter is ready to fire the charging arm should be pressing against the free end. If it isn't the camera will not fire.

To fix this it is easier if the shutter is fired. To do this first remove the large screw holding the long arm. Not forgetting the spring! There is a washer which must be removed too. Do not lose this it is important. This gets it out of the way. now push the charging arm towards camera front as far as it will go. You won't get it all the way, as the latch will be in the way, just as far as you can. If it isn't in the way, then this is not your problem!

Holding it in this position, press the shutter release. This should fire the shutter. If it does not fire then you may also have to remove the latch to allow you to push the arm forwards a little more. (In fact if you can hold the arm in the primed position you could replace the catch in the primed position. This is awkward though!)

When the shutter has fired the latch should move to the 'reset' position, allowing the charging arm to be pushed past it's end. If this is OK, you need to push the lever back to the reset postion. The mirror will remain in the up postion until you do this.

Now you can replace the long arm, again not forgetting the spring. The screw that holds that on has a shoulder, that the spring loops around, and the washer has a flat spot in the hole which means it has to be fitted in the right position. The end of the spring should poke through the mirror arm hole. The easiest way to reassemble this is to put the arm in, then fit the washer. Now place the spring loosely in position, and then put the screw in place loosley. This allows you to manuver the end of the sprion into the hole, You can then carefully tighten the screww. The washer has a tendency to become dislodged so you might have to try this a couple of times. (A blob of grease here can help keep the washer in place.)

If that's all OK then you should be able to wind and fire. If everything seems fine, check the screws are firm (Don't overtighten any!) and replace the bottom cover.

This is a very common fault, and is often caused by jarring the camera just at the wrong monent, but it can develop in an old camera (and they all are!) just due to wear. The latch has in fact changed in shape several times in the lifteime of this mechanism (and it was still in use in K1000's in 1997!) and is the mst common single cause of jams in these cameras.

A little lubrication can help. A spot of lighter fluid can be used to remove old oil and grease from the winder gear, the cocking arm pivot, anf the latch pivot. A tiny amount of grease can be applied to the slow moving pivots and contact points only. A tiny drop of watch oil can be used on the latch pivot. and the opeating peg, but no oil must get into the axle or teeth of the gear itself. This can cause uneven and erratic running of the curtain.

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Could be 1 of two things: 1. Mirror linkage failed. 2. Something is holding the mirror; sticky foam or the lubrication has dried out. Remove the lens, use slow shutter speed to release the shutter. While mirror is stuck in the up position, very gently pull down on the front edge of the mirror. If it frees up immediately it was stuck on the foam. Might be able to see a mark on edge of mirror from the foam. Hope this helps.

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