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I have GE GSH25JSTASS and I tried to replace freezer side door gasket with the new one. But in some areas I have a 1/4 inch gap between the door and the refrigerator, Why? What do Ui need to do to fix it. Thank you

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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HVACRH20
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SOURCE: amana BX22RW Freezer Compartment Icing

Ya hit it right on the head. Sounds like a classic "pulling in moisture" problem. See if you can seal that air leak any way you can. That moisture can freeze up air channels and block the refer compartment from getting cool air from the freezer compartment eventually.

Posted on Nov 09, 2006

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  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: Delfield Refrigerator/Freezer Condensation forming outside door seals

I would expect at the very least a heater circuit around the freezer door. Some of the commercial units also have sprung doors to keep the doors firmly shut which you could check by opening the doors. Door heater circuits are normally very reliable and it would be worth checking the voltage is getting to them, they are also a pain to change out. Hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 26, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Condensation on refrigerator front btwn top freezer and refrigerator doors

I have the same problem with my frig in the basement. I get condensation and resulting mold on the top outer surface and related areas. This is from the surface being cold, with resulting outside moist air condensing on the cold surface. Best solution - spray/wipe the surface with a bleach and water solution, let it soak a few minutes, then wipe off with a rag. Add a drop of dishwasher soap to a mixture of roughly 4 parts water to one part bleach. Repeat if necessary. Do this as often as the problem seems to creep up again. Good luck!

Handyman in NJ

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

joboo1
  • 257 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator Door not closing properly

Hi, No the door is not adjustable like you might think Since it is smaller than the other door any alignment problem is really visible. First do check the bracket to make sure you didn't lose a screw and that the brackets are solid and don't move. The problem is the level of either the refrigerator or the floor. If you have a 3 ft bubble level put in on the top of the refrigerator along the front, NOT on the door. There are feet on the bottom front corners of the refrigerator, you may have to remove the plastic grill to access them but depending on the model and age of your refrigerator it should be attached with clips. The feet screw in and out but with weight they won't move easily so you may have to jack the front a little, remove some stuff or try a crescent wrench. Once the front is level check the front to back, the refrigerator needs to tilt slightly to the rear so the door when partially open will close by itself. Again you didn't give a model so on some the rear feet are not adjustable and some are. I suspect you may have adjustable and the box is not squared up. If after adjusting the front and the entire refrigerator tilts like an uneven table leg then you have to adjust the feet likewise. Use your level diagonally across the top both directions, it should be exactly the same. If you have non adjustable and they are uneven it is the floor and you have to use shims under the low foot. Good Luck!

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: Refrig door gasket does not prevent gap when door is closed

Lift up the gasket and look for screws securing the gasket to the door.
Loosen all of these screws a few turns and twist the door in the direction needed to seal.
Hold the door in this position as you tighten the screws.
This can be tricky and sometimes requires multiple efforts.

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

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GE front loader leaking new door hinge on left side... It is not down spout but that the gasket didn't contact door on that side allowing leak door will push .5 -1 inch on hinge side. M#Wbvh6240fww


Recheck the door hinge install. Sound like the hinge is not installed properly leaving a gap on the hinge side. There are sometimes notches or hooks on the hinges that need to be in holes or cutouts on the washer body for proper fit. if the hinge is not in the holes right it will stick out from the body and leak.

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Refrig door does not seal


First off, make sure nothing is stopping the door from closing completely. If the door is closing properly, then using a hair dryer, heat the gasket until soft and pliable. You can carefully stretch it towards the cabinet. There is a magnet in the gasket all the way around on the mating portion. While the gasket is soft, the magnet will pull the gasket until contact is made with the cabinet. Once a good seal has been accomplished, allow to door to remain closed for 30 minutes. The seal will cool down, and the new shape will be maintained. After that, close the door on a dollar bill. Gently tug the portion of the bill on the outside of the door from one corner to the other. There should be some resistance to your pulling. If the bill feels loose, apply more heat to the gasket in that area to improve the seal. DO NOT HOLD THE HAIR DRYER IN ONE PLACE TOO LONG AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE GASKET, AS WELL AS THE PLASTIC LINER.

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1 Answer

GE GSH25JSTASS doesn't freeze or cool


Ok, first off, replace all thermistors, freezer (2) & refrig (2). Then check that evap fan is working properly. This is a DC volt fan, not ac volt. There have been some issues with these, I would replace if problem continues.

How this box works, main control board monitors everything from how many times doors are open, how long they are open, how and when I/M drops ice, etc.... Every so many hours, depending on how many times the doors are open, you got ice thru the door, etc... it will shut down and go into defrost mode. When it is time for defrost mode it will run refrig into a "sub zero" state, shut down evap fan, run deeper into sub zero effect, shut down compressor when the thermistors say it's cold enough, turn on defrost heater that melts any frost in evap, then turn compressor back on for a few minutes, then turn evap fan back on. Most techs think that the mother board is defective when in fact the thermistors are not measuring temps correctly within the whole unit. If the thermistor say, hey mother board I'm only 60 degrees in the freezer, then it will keep running the compressor trying to get to zero or -1 or till the darn thing freezes up and stops moving air.

Find another tech to work on your unit, one that has some electronics background and/or computer knowledge. It takes a electronics & computer degree to work on these units and understand how they function.

Doors, some of the new frigs have magnetic door gaskets, if it is not staying shut, replace door gaskets. If door stay open or is leaking air (especially around ice shoot) it can cause some really weird stuff to occur, like thermistors saying I'm cold at the inlet to evap but not at the top of evap and mother board will try to correct it's self by running longer. One other thing about door gaskets, if the drain plug in the evap area is frozen or plugged up, doors won't shut properly and stay shut.

For one thousand dollars, I'll come to Florida and fix for you, 200 to fix refrig and the rest for a good time at Disney World (LOL). Good luck. Contact GE for repair on this unit if you can't get good results from your repairman. Their people, like me, go thru extensive training on these boxes. You can thank our goverment for the energy codes that have gone into effect over the years requiring mfgs to have to keep the cost of running these refrigs down as low as possible, the only way to do this was to computerize these boxes. Good luck

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tough job there , you must get a hair dryer and carefully heat gasket until it seals properly. some gaskets take hours to get to seal right.
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Hi, Try rolling up a piece of paper towel and place it behind the door gasket to stretch it. It might take a few days to stretch.
I hope this helps.
Please let me know if I can assist you further.

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My Kenmore freezer, model #253.9280212 runs but will not cool below 40 degrees. It runs all the time but I do not hear anything cut on and off. The freezer is 10 years old but looks brand new.


The first thing to check is door gasket< bad corners,gap in side,bottom or top. Close door on a dollar bill and try to slide it top to bottom side to side and if it slides fairly easy then seal is not doing good. If you find dirty area clean it off along with the cabinet side as well.If you find the side is leaking then heat gasket with hair dryer and apply vasoline to gasket to help it move freely. If you find tear or hole then replace it.

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The supply line inside the door is frozen,there are several fixes. You can leave the night lite on,use a hair dryer,even try unplugging it with the freezer door open for about a half hour or so. Hope this helps!
I have used all three methods,this is a factory defect that GE will not address.

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If concave is severe you will have to replace door. You can try to alleviate a slight gap by using a hairdryer and blowing hot air on the gasket in the area of the gap....move the dryer in up and down motions and the gasket will expand! Just make sure that there is no ice pressing against the door inner first! Oshie

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Ya hit it right on the head. Sounds like a classic "pulling in moisture" problem. See if you can seal that air leak any way you can. That moisture can freeze up air channels and block the refer compartment from getting cool air from the freezer compartment eventually.

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