Question about Kenmore 62872 Electric Dryer

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Model 110.66862501 - Series 80 Dryer I replaced the heater element and I put the connector wires on the lower thermostat on wrong. When I plugged in the dryer, the house fuse tripped. Now I believe I have the wires correctly connected to the lower thermostat. When I plug in the dryer the heater element turns on and stays on. When I push the button to start the motor, I get a buzz and the motor will not start. Please assist

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  • sslyman Sep 15, 2010


    Regarding the heater staying on. I checked the elements and they don't appear to be touching anything. Is it possible that I shorted the lower thermostat when I connected the wires improperly? And would this cause the heater to stay on?

    FYI, I didn't see the wiring diagram image in your response. Please provide if possible.

    I will perform the other diagnostics tonight and report what I find.

    Thank you for your prompt response.




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The thermal fuse on the blower housing is most likely blown resulting in the motor not running. Unplug the dryer and disconnect the thermal fuse wires and tape them together or jump a wire between them to bypass the thermal fuse. After the thermal fuse is bypassed, plug the dryer back in start it. The motor should start if the thermal fuse is indeed blown and needs to be replaced. Otherwise, the problem is either the timer, motor, or start switch which will need further troubleshooting to determine exactly which among them is the culprit.

Regarding the automatic turning on of the heating element,it is obvious that there's a short circuit or wiring fault. The heating element only turns on when the motor is running because of the centrifugal switch for the heating circuit that is activated by the motor.

Check to make sure that no part of the heating element coil is touching its housing. The heating element turns on automatically when the dryer is plugged in if a coil part touches the housing. Review the wiring connections by referring to the wiring diagram and the illustration below. Take note of the wire colors in the diagram. Only the initial of the colors are used to label the wires in the diagram.

Please accept the solution if you find it helpful or informative. Accepting a solution cannot prevent you from communicating with an expert. You may continue communicating with the expert as long as you need assistance regarding the issue stated herein.

Posted on Sep 15, 2010

  • 9 more comments 
  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Sep 15, 2010

    My apologies for the images. Here they are:

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Sep 15, 2010

    The cycling thermostat is also the operating thermostat.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Sep 15, 2010

    As you can see, the thermostats and the thermal cut-off are wired in series with the heating element together with the timer switch and the centrifugal switch. The function of the thermostats is to interrupt the power to the heating circuit to regulate the dryer temperature. Shorting them simply disables that function but will not result in automatic turning on of the heater as long as the timer switch and the centrifugal switch are not shorted.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Sep 15, 2010

    Here is the missing right part of the wiring diagram.

  • sslyman Sep 15, 2010

    Ok, I will double check the heating element and perform the thermal fuse diagnosis and get back to you tomorrow morning.

    You have been very helpful.


  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Sep 15, 2010

    Please accept the solution if you find it helpful or informative. Accepting a solution cannot prevent you from communicating with an expert. You may continue communicating with the expert as long as you need assistance regarding the issue stated herein.

  • sslyman Sep 16, 2010


    I did the Thermal Fuse test above and the motor still does not start. When I turned on the dryer there is a buzz coming from the Start button and the timer has a clicking sound.

    I also did a continuity test between the thermal fuse posts (w/o the wires attached) and there is a complete circuit.

    I double checked the heater element and it is not touching the housing - and still starts as before.

    FYI, I don't detect a burnt smell from either the start button or the timer.

    Any advice is welcome.



  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Sep 16, 2010

    Perform a resistance/continuity test between each of the heating element terminals and its housing with and without the wires. The resistance/continuity should read infinite/open if there's no issue withe heating element shorting with its housing or no any other part of the heating circuit shorting with the cabinet.

    Regarding the motor not running, check to make sure the circuit breaker, where the dryer is connected, is not tripped. Also verify whether the buzz is coming from the timer, start switch, or the motor at the bottom of the machine. If the buzz sounds only when pushed, then it is likely that it is coming from the motor.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Sep 16, 2010

    Better also check the condition of the motor and the centrifugal (motor) switch. Sometime the motor clamps can get loose and be lodged into the centrifugal (motor) switch and complete the heating circuit even the motor is not running.

  • sslyman Sep 16, 2010


    The dryer has one circuit breaker in the basement panel (it must cover both functions). The buzz is coming from the start switch. The timer clicks. There is no sound from the motor.

    It appears that I shorted either the motor or the timer switch when i connected the new heater element wrong (my error). Both are expensive so I plan on getting a new dryer unless you think otherwise.

    I appreciate all the help and expert advice.

    Take care,


  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Sep 16, 2010

    I cannot see the possibility of shorting the motor or the timer if you touch just the wiring of the components on the heater assembly. Please summarize from the very beginning what you did and what happened. so that I can analyzed and deduce what happened.



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