Question about Quantaray Dakota RZ-2000 35mm SLR Camera

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I don't know if i broke my camera or not. The film advanced lever felt stuck, so I kept pushing it and it finally loosened up, well now it won't advance or do anything. Can some one please tell me how to fix it. Did I break it?

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In short, yes. The Quantaray Dakota RZ-2000 is an astoundingly poorly made SLR and most of the winder mechanism is of a poor-quality plastic. You have most likely stripped some internal gears or damaged them in some other way.

Unless your camera is under warranty, there is no other realistic option other than to throw it into the nearest recycling bin as spare parts just aren't available and any repairs will cost more than the camera is worth. If you have the original lens then it's also really not worth keeping unless you fancy using it for deliberate lo-fi shots like those currently in vogue with Lomo and Holga models.

It's not all doom and gloom though: almost any other 35mm SLR is far better made and capable of producing better results and they're easy to obtain for free as most are now virtually worthless. Just ask on your local FreeCycle or Freegle groups. You may have to invest in new batteries and possibly a replacement light seal and mirror buffer kit but they're fairly cheap and far cheaper than another Dakota. Just don't buy the seal kit until you have run a test film through the camera to check everything works correctly. Some late autofocus 35mm SLR's don't even need light seal kits.

Finally, bear in mind that if your camera is outside of its warranty then you have absolutely nothing to lose in trying to strip down and repair this camera yourself. There won't be any repair manuals or schematics in the public domain so you'll be on your own, but the best place to start looking for a fault is under the baseplate so remove that first. The top plate is trickier to remove though and usually needs special tools, so you're likely to break more of your camera if you remove it, but at least you'll gain experience and may still be able to find what went wrong originally. If you find any stripped gears you'll be very lucky if you can find anything to replace them, but you may just find that the fault has been due to a spring or lever becoming dislodged or a spring anchor post breaking off and if so you may be able to fabricate a suitable repair.

Good luck and I hope that you quickly locate a better camera for zilch.

Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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Everything seems to function well, actually, I've never used this camera. Got if off of ebay, so maybe I was gypped. Anyways, the film advance lever seems to be stuck. It only goes half way. I can put...


If the lever won't advance even when there is no film in the camera, then I would say there is a problem. (p.s. You haven't told us the make and model)

May 29, 2011 | Cameras

Tip

Stuck Film Advance in Manual or Auto Wind 35mm Cameras


I've been seeing a great number of posts from people requesting help with a stuck film advance feature on their 35mm film cameras (you remember "film", right?) Normally, there are just a couple of things you can try to fix this issue before you'll need to find a professional to repair your camera - if it's even worth it. On that note, a lot of people still have film cameras for nostalgia purposes but there are still some hold outs that enjoy film. Finding a repair shop for an older camera isn't impossible but they are getting scarcer. Google "FILM CAMERA REPAIR" and see what pops up in your area!

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS:

There's a complex number of actions that must work properly in order for you to advance the film in your camera using the manual advance lever. Gears, shafts, bearings and springs come into play and like a clock, they need to mesh together or the advance mechanism comes to a screeching halt. Well, you'll be the only one screeching, most likely but you get the point. If any of those parts break or become unaligned, or if some foreign matter like dust or dirt gets into them, the same thing happens. However, there are sometimes a few things you can try that might prevent you from sending in your camera for professional repair. I caution you about opening your camera yourself unless it has no real value to you because the interior of a 35mm SLR camera is pretty complex, even more so that a clock. Chances are you'll do more bad than good. With that said, try these options:

Film Jammed - Won't Advance
Sometimes the film will jam in the canister, or in rare instances, isn't actually as long as it's supposed to be and can reach the end of the roll before the camera indicates it has. If you suspect this has occurred then push the film release button and try to wind the film back into the canister before opening the camera. If you don't care if the film gets exposed feel free to do this in the light. It's much easier!
At times the film may also pull lose from the canister and roll completely on the take-up reel. If this happens you'll need to take the camera into a completely dark room with the light-proof film container, remove the film manually from your camera, roll the film up and put it into the light-proof container, close it tight and then seal it with electrical or duct tape. Also let the lab know this has happened so they don't pop up the container and expose your film thinking it is still in the canister.

Advance Lever Stuck
If the actual film advance lever is stuck and won't move, about the only option you have is to open the back of the camera and be sure nothing has jammed in the gears or sprockets of the take up reel or film path. If that doesn't fix the problem try pressing the film release button, wind the rewind lever a bit and see if the advance lever engages again.

If the lever just flips back and forth with no tension at all then something inside has broken and your chances of repairing it yourself are almost none. Most film cameras are getting on in years and will just naturally begin to break down over time. There may be no option to even fix your camera unless you find a similar model for parts and send that along to the repair shop. Make sure you get the parts camera back as you may need it later! If you like tinkering and the camera isn't one you'd miss if you couldn't fix it, then you could always give it a shot yourself. You can pick up a set of jeweler's screwdrivers and pliers from the web or Radio Shack for under $20 and find old film cameras on EBay or Craigslist at a decent price. Just be sure they don't have the same problem as your current camera does!

Grinding Noise When Advancing Film
This is most often caused either by a broken part, metal shavings or dirt/debris in the winding mechanism. Again, if you feel comfortable doing it yourself and it's not an expensive collector's model, you can try to repair it yourself. Hunt down a PDF service manual for your camera on the using Google web (a lot of collectors share them) and it should show you how to remove the cover to see the winding mechanism area. Look for debris in the gears and springs and remove it with short blasts of canned air but be sure you hold the camera so any debris falls out and not further into the camera. You can also use Q-tips dipped in alcohol to remove any debris, but don't use water, and let the area dry completely. Once you've done this, you'll need to apply a light lubricant to the area but only if it was lubricated before you cleaned. Use thin white lithium grease or an oil or grease used by clock repair shops and apply it with a toothpick as you don't need much. DON'T USE WD-40! It will do more damage than help.

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS WITH MOTORDRIVE ATTACHMENTS:

These are manual wind cameras like the Minolta X-700 or Nikon FM2 that have an attachable motor drive that winds the film for you. Pretty much the same suggestions previously noted can be tried with a couple of exceptions:
Check the batteries and contacts in the winder making sure they're clean and not bent or broken. You can clean battery contacts with a CLEAN pencil eraser or alcohol and a Q-tip. Blow any dust and debris out of the compartment afterwards.If you still experience problems remove the winder and be sure the coupling that locks into the bottom of the camera to wind the film is not jammed or damaged. With batteries in the winder and the power turned on, look for a series of contacts on the top of the winder that mate with your camera. Be sure these aren't dirty or broken as well. Using a paper clip, you should be able to short one or more of them to another to activate the winder to make sure it works properly.

When All Else Fails - A Bigger Hammer
If none of the previous suggestions work and if, ONLY if you don't value the camera for collector's value a firm tap might work as a last ditch effort. I once had an old Minolta SRT that locked up solid. I didn't want to bother with trying to open it up as I only used it for a shelf display so I took the lens off, used a wad of very clean, soft foam to hold the mirror steady and wacked it twice on the counter. Not enough to damage the camera body (or the counter!) but a good smack. Whatever was jammed came loose and the advanced began to work. As I said, I only use it for display so I don't know if it affected the shutter speeds, etc. but it worked and cost me nothing but time.

AUTO/POWER ADVANCE CAMERAS:

Newer "old" 35mm film cameras used a power winder motor to advance the film and **** the shutter. If you experience a jammed advance on these cameras, check the film path, sprockets and make sure they are clear and move freely, as I described previously. Try the film release button and see if that will release the drive as well. Another option that has worked at times is to remove the film, lens and all batteries from the camera (including any date/time battery) for at least a day or two to see if the camera will reset itself. This worked for me once with a Nikon N70.
As a last ditch effort, the table smack might work as well, but I make no promises and it's all your fault if you damage the camera beyond repair... or your furniture!

on Jan 06, 2015 | Photography

1 Answer

How do i get my advance lever to move it seems jammed


A Canon AE-1 is not an EOS camera the Canon "A" series is manual focus while EOS is auto focus. First thought In answer to the advance lever stuck or jammed I'm going to assume the camera is in serviceable condition and has not been subjected to water damage or harsh use. If we are dealing with just the advance lever then I'd say that you have over advanced the film at the last frame. I've done this myself after loading a 24 exposure and thinking I had a 36 exposure film. At the bottom of the camera there is a little pin which releases the advance lever and allows the user to rewind the film. Under normal conditions when it's time to rewind the film into the canister this pin offers little resistance to pushing in to release, however depending on how much force the advance lever has been subjected to increases the tension on this pin. Push the pin in and rewind the film.
Second thought is if you have film in the camera and it has not been used fully then it's possible that the film has already been advanced to a new frame and the shutter needs to be activated before the lever will become free and advance to the next frame.
Other problems with the Canon "A" series cameras is they have a tendency to dry out the lubrication and begin to squeak when the shutter is fired. This condition can eventually result is a shutter seizure and give the same advance lever condition.
Those are the three things that come to mind over this lever problem lets hope it's just run out of film.

Nov 20, 2010 | Canon EOS-AE-1 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

My cameras advance lever will not spring back and allow the film to move to the next frame. How do i fix it?


push the film release on the bottom of the camera and try to continue forward then. If you are trying to get 27 pictures on a 24 exp. roll you may have advanced your film so far that it is stuck on the piece of tape that attaches the film to the spool. Take only 24 pictures.

May 20, 2010 | Ricoh KR-5 SUPER II 35mm SLR Camera

2 Answers

Pentax ME Super


Does the film advance lever lock in place when the lever is returned ? if not, the lock spring broke. This is a common weak point in the ME Super. the camera must be partially disassembled to be repaired. get a cost estimate first. there are no new parts for this model Pentax.

Jan 04, 2010 | Pentax ME Super 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Pentax me super camera, not working wind on lever


The clip spring broke jambing the advance gear. by forcing, the tab on the advance shaft broke.
take or send your camera to a camera repair shop for an estimate cost to repair.
there are no new parts for this model so the repairs could be expensive.
there should be no cost for an estimate.

Dec 10, 2009 | Pentax ME Super 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Film advance lever goes back and forth putting no tension or movement inside the camera to advance the film. Was working fine, then after taking my last shot, lever is just sort of loose., couldnt load new...


first make sure the rewind button is not stuck down. open the back door and rotate the advance sprocket back and forth to release the button. if that did not work take the bottom cover off and check the white plastic gear near the take up shaft. if that gear broke it will have to be repaired by a camera repair person.
there are no new parts for this model so get a cost estimate first.

Jul 07, 2009 | Minolta X-370S 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

The film advance lever on my ricoh kr-5 broke


plenty of these cameras are on ebay sold for parts

Jan 05, 2009 | Pentax ME Super 35mm SLR Camera

1 Answer

Film will not advance


Pressing the rewind button wind the film advance lever,if it is free It will set to its place. Release the rewind button, press the shutter release button.Once again try wind the film.( provided your camera is not fitted with motor wind )
Then your winding gears need cleaning

Jan 18, 2008 | Pentax ME Super 35mm SLR Camera

2 Answers

Help, my camera wont take pictures


Did you try pushing the shutter button? It may already be wound. Otherwise, try pushing the rewind button in and holding it while you wind the lever. Now, it MAY be that your at the end of the roll-what does your counter say?

Mar 31, 2007 | Nikon FM10 35mm SLR Camera

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