Question about Honda Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

On the Honda EX-1000 generator there is a metal arm (about 6" long and positioned vertically) that is connected to a rod that comes out of the crankcase and the other end connects to the carb accelerator. I believe it's function is to sense a greater electrical load (engine slows down) through the rod coming out of the engine and move the carb control to give it more gas. OK, now the problem... the arm was loosened from the rod and now I dont know the positioning and it doesent move at all based on the electrical load. I'm a missionary in Peru and too far away to get the repair manual sent to me in time. If there was a down-loadable manual I'd love to find one even to buy it.

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

Hi Try to put the metal arm at 12 oclock and the rod comming out the crankshaft case between 5 min befor and 5 min after 12 oclock.The rond side of the rod shoud be on your left.

Posted on Dec 08, 2010

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

How to do a static gov adjustment on a Honda EB3500XK1 generator?


PLace the throttle at full position while watching the governor arm. Loosen the clamp bolt on the governor arm and turn the governor crank in the same direction as previously noted until it stops. Now retighten the clamp bolt.

Jan 28, 2015 | Honda Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

I have an older honda ex 1000 generator what is the correct rpm For it to start making power?


Normally a generator RPM dictates the frequency. You will have to obtain a frequency meter. (Some multi-meters include a Hz selection). Adjust the RPM until your frequency meter shows 60HZ (in the US). If you do not read any frequency at any RPM, the unit needs troubleshooting in the voltage section.

Jul 19, 2014 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

I have an older honda ex 1000 that just will not charge,


When you say "can't get to charge" are you talking about the low ac voltage coming out or receptacles or what?

Mar 11, 2014 | Honda Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

TOOK CARB OFF TO CLEAN OUT "GUM" FROM SITTING. DURING RE-ASSEMBLT SOLID 1/16" ROD FROM GOVERNOR ARM TO THROTTLE PLATE ARM HOOKED UP OK. THEN I DISCOVERED A VERY LIGHT WEIGHT SPRING AROUND...


the little spring should go through same holes as the linkage it's purpose is to take the slack out of the rod to keep the engine running smooth a broken spring will cause it too run erratically

Jan 10, 2011 | Sunpentown 2,800 Watt 6.5HP Power...

1 Answer

Just need to know how to adjust the 'arm' of the ballcock to lower the water level in the tank. Do I use the screw at the base of the arm?


Hello...

To adjust the water level, you need to set the height at which the float shuts off the water valve. There are several types of floats. In older toilets, the float hangs at the end of an armature, along a metal or plastic rod. Where that arm connects to the water valve there is usually a screw. Adjusting that screw will change the level at which the water valve shuts off. If there is no screw or it is already at its maximum, you may be able to bend the metal arm, but you should remove it from the valve or risk damaging the fill valve.
In newer toilets the float is often a collar around the fill valve and rides up and down vertically. The float typically has a spring clip connecting it to a metal rod which connects to the valve shut off control. Squeeze the spring clip to slide the float up or down the metal rod.
Manufacturers have several variations on the fill valve mechanism, but they all include a method for adjusting the water level. Close inspection should make it clear how to adjust your particular fill valve.

I hope this helps!

Jan 08, 2011 | Crane Plumbing 3755 Toilet-To-Go Metro...

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
prev.gif next.gif

Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Honda ems 4000 generator starts and runs great, but no power


The plunger is stuck where the governor rod which is spring attached to the frame is. If you locate the governor metal rod on the lower level of the unit. zrock it to a higher rpm as you would a car carburator from under the hood.
This will free the plunger and the green light will go on and your current meter will register 120 volts.

When you lay up the generator for quite some time it often sticks closed. With monthly start up you will no have this problem reoccurr.

May 13, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Motorcycle resonating vibration above 5000 revs open or close throttle honda fireblade rr7


Check wheel bearings, swing arm bearings, axle nuts, and chain tension. Also check motor mount bolts. If this is not the problem then more than likely it is something in the bottom end of the engine, ex. crank or connecting rod bearing. Good luck.

Apr 26, 2009 | 2007 Honda CBR 1000 RR Fireblade

Not finding what you are looking for?
Electrical Supplies Logo

Related Topics:

722 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Honda Electrical Supplies Experts

John Trevino

Level 3 Expert

1383 Answers

Doctor PC
Doctor PC

Level 3 Expert

7733 Answers

Roland W VanLue
Roland W VanLue

Level 3 Expert

486 Answers

Are you a Honda Electrical Supply Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...