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Freezer ice stacked around the pipe under fan which melt into water flooding the kithen floor and form ice on the buttom drawer-floor. model is MSD2354AR. where is heater located? or the thermoter problem, can i buy parts and diy.??

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The heater is located on the evaporator coil,try defrosting it,then unplugging the drain

Posted on Sep 16, 2010

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Freezer drain is clogged, I guess, water dripping on the floor, ice buildup on bottom of second door, it has an ice machine built in, what do I do? I'm a female.


Good Morning Andi.

the good news is that the fridge is not likely doing this because you're female, and your description of what has happened with power outages sounds like that's very likely the culprit - a fair amount of melted water dripping, then power comes on and freezes water in the drain.

I don't know your specific model, or if you know where the drain is. it's likely down in the bottom of the freezer compartment. If you remove the lower drawer, or unpack the lowest area, the floor will likely slope toward either an overt hole, or to a slit/hole in the back. If there is actual ice frozen on the lowest shelf/shell of the freezer, you'll want to get rid of it.

Easiest and safest route (as in least likelihood of damaging the freezer or hurting anyone)
  1. Turn the fridge off. It won't be off long enough to risk much thawing, but you don't want the cooling coils actively pulling heat from what you do in the next step.
  2. Hot, even scalding water. Especially if there is overt ice at the bottom, pour small dribbles in at the edge. Some will go across the ice and melt a bit of the bulk. Some will trickle down between the ice and the freezer floor. Do this a couple times, then see if you can pry up sections of the ice from the floor. Pull out as much as you can of the bulk ice. You'll likely want to get a couple of towels out since you'll likely get some water on the floor.
  3. Once you've cleared overt ice from the freezer floor, pour some more hot/scalding water onto the plug, or into wherever the floor slopes to. Be patient and don't pour too big a volume. Ideally, after a few modest pours, you'll get water coming out from under the fridge. If the lower panel will pop loose, get in and use a towel to pick up as much of the water as you can. pour a bit more hot water through and verify it pours through to the floor (or possibly a catch pan).
  4. If you get this far, dry the freezer floor as best you can with the towels, replace the drawer or any unpacked foods, close the freezer, and turn the fridge back on. It will probably be back to normal.

    Good Luck!

    D

Nov 23, 2015 | Freezers

1 Answer

Hotpoint FZ175G red warning light comes on freezer still freezing after reset light comes on again after a couple of hours


Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.


This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

Sep 17, 2013 | Freezers

1 Answer

Fridgidaire freezer warming up


Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.


This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

Sep 09, 2013 | Freezers

1 Answer

Inside rear panel bulging


Unplug the unit and take out all the drawers and remove the back (behind the drawers) panel carefully. (This back panel has foamy thermal insulation behind it and this will be probably be enmeshed with ice - you may have to wait awhile for this ice to melt before you can remove the panel, even after you have unscrewed it.
When you have got the back panel off, you will see a large solid block of ice, probably halfway up the cooling coils, right down to the bottom of the exposed space. You have to melt all this ice (I used a hair dryer to blow warm air onto the ice (have towels and a bucket ready to mop up the melted water, otherwise it will run over the floor. When you have melted all this ice, you will see a drain hole at the bottom of the exposed space. This will have ice in it and it must be cleared.
Then replace the back panel and all should be OK.
The panel bulges because ice/water is accumulating behind the panel, water, when it freezes, expands, forcing the panel forwards.
I reckon it's a Hotpoint Design fault. What is supposed to happen is that during the heating cycle, melted ice drops down from the cooling coils and down the drain hole onto a plate over the compressor unit, where it evaporates. BUT, during the cooling cycle, a fan circulates cold air from the cooling coils, through the entire unit, which includes the chamber behind the panel that is below the coils. Thus this chamber gets cold (-18 deg.C) so that water dripping down during the heating cycle is frozen before it has a chance to fall down the drain hole.
I now defrost in this manner every six months or so. Sadly, very sadly, Hotpoint, like other white goods manufacturers (Baxi Potterton boilers for instance) do not reply to my enquiries.
Hope this helps.

Feb 19, 2013 | Hotpoint 6.92 cu. ft. / 196 liter Upright...

1 Answer

Water on floor


The hose that goes into the drip pan to defrost the refer is plugged with stuff.
take the back off and see the hose connection.A coat hanger works well.Usually a 1/4" hose.
Also see where the bottom of the freezer drains into the drip pan.That may be plugged,also.
The temp may be set too low and the condenser is frozen up,leaking water into the floor.Just ice stuck to the condenser.
Possible that the condenser FAN stopped turning. That will ice up and melt at random:
see/hear that the fan is working.
If stuff gets into the fan,it will ice up,melt and make a mess on the floor.

Nov 26, 2012 | Sub-Zero 700 Refrigerator Freezer...

1 Answer

Frost free freezer forming layer of clear ice on floor of freezer


This sounds like clogged drain / hose in the freezer compartment, here's why:

When the defrost circuit turns on, the compressor turns off. The defrost coil melts frost that collects on the freezer coil and drips in to a small pan located below the coil. The pan is formed so that the water that drips in it can flow to a hose connected under it. When the defrost cycle completes. the compressor runs again, bringing the temperature in the freezer to about 0 again. Any water remaining anywhere in the freezer will turn to ice very quickly.

If the hose should become clogged with ice, or slowed by mold, bacteria, etc. - water flow will be slowed, and / or eventually stopped. Ice will become thicker and thicker on the floor of the freezer as there is no place for the water to go.

A service manual for the appliance would be a good idea, but may not be required. You'll need to unplug the freezer and empty the contents. Defrost manually with a hair dryer or other heat source. If you decide to chip away ice, do so carefully.

The defrost and drain area of most refrigerator / freezers are located behind the rear panel of the freezer compartment. This is where the manual would indicate where the parts are located. Remove any ice maker installed if needed to remove the back panel.

Defrost any ice previously hidden by the panel. Chipping ice here should be a last resort, as sharp edges can damage cooling coils, tubing and the drip pan itself. Use a turkey baster filled with hot water to direct a stream at the area of the pan filled with ice. Hot water will likely have to be directed down the opening on the pan to melt ice in the hose as well.

Once the ice is cleared, mix about a 10% to 20% solution of bleach and water (1/2 ounce bleach to 3 ounces water) and direct down the drain hose. This will kill and inhibit further growth of mold and bacteria in the hose, which should help it drain water quickly.

Re-assemble and plug into power.

I hope you found this Very Helpful. If you need more help, ask again - but include the freezer manufacturer's name and model number. Good luck!

Dec 03, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

Electrolux premier eco freezer leaking. Water appearing on the floor. Ice building up inside the freezer.


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help

Oct 11, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

Water leaking onto the floor from freezer drain...


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. .

Sep 20, 2009 | Freezers

2 Answers

BEKO AB910 Frost Free Fridge/Freezer Ice build up


I have the same model + problem. You should not need to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you describe is probably due to a blocked pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to prevent recurrence.

Behind the upper freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille (full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the back). Your problem is too much ice blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades' down the back behind the bottom drawer.

When you manually defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days.

I have found that the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off! [There is a fan in this area that could start up without warning]

Check how much of the pipe is blocked by gentle probing with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This measurement is important…

When the pipe is clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney' rather than upwards.

There's no point steaming the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney' has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.

It's perfectly feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes.

Don't forget to replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been defrosting.

Take a lot of care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens.

Some of these tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting) so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath the freezer.

Apr 23, 2009 | Freezers

2 Answers

My Bosch frostfree fridge freezer keeps icing up!


My Bosch Frost Free Fridge Freezer did the same thing - Ice forming in the bottom of the freezer area after a few days.

It was caused by a blocked drain pipe - When the freezer does the de-frosting cycle, the melted ice drips into a tray and tehn runs into a dish on top of teh compressor, through a pipe.

If this pipe gets blocked, the de frosted ice overflows from the tray and overflows into the bottom of the freezer and then re-freezes !

To fix, pull the freezer away form the wall, locate the pipe that runs to the dish on top of the compressor and blow through it - This should clear it. Alternatively, from inside the freezer compartment, pull off the cover at the back, but the clips holding it on will probably break off, as mine did ! You can sort of push the cover back on and re-fit the food draws.

Feb 23, 2009 | Freezers

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