No power going to the 1 side of the stat - Dryers

hi take heater cover off back of dryer on top you have 2 stats take left 1 off turn upside down if it looks bent inward that is faulty try this. side which faces heater element give it a good nock on hard surface if it curves out it should work now but sum stats you cant do this u can bypass stat just to try it but only try dont use dryer with stat bypassed its dangerous if you have to buy stats they come in pairs one with spot and 1 wthout its one with spot usually 1 gone but put both in if you buy sum

yes,usually people don't know that the dryer and vent line has to be cleaned out,if it's gas it should be done at least once a year,electric 1 1/2 years,so you don't have a fire and so none of the t-stats will pop.if the dryer isn't taken apart and the lint filter duct,the cabinet where the motor is and the vent line isn't cleaned out you will have bad air flow,the dryer will run hotter than normal and the t-stats are made to pop if this happens for safety reasons.your lint filter is on top so unplug the dryer,pull it away from the wall,remove the vent line,remove the back panel,now pull out the lint filter and remove the two phillips screws in front of it,go in the back and on the left side you'll see the metal duct the lint filter slides into,remove the four screws,they are 1/4 or 5/16 inch screws,clean out the duct and any lint you see in the back,also if the duct doesn't pull out completely push it to one side and clean off the top vent,now look to the bottom right of the duct,youll see a white piece with two wires,that's the thermal fuse,check that with a meter,you always have to remove at least one wire when checking a part,set your meter to say 20k ohms,touch the leads together,you should get a reading,now touch the leads to the fuse part 3392519,if it stays at 1 the fuse is bad,any other reading it's good.if it's good go to the heater box,start at the top,pull at least one wire off and check it,part number 279816 this is a kit,you change this t-stat and the one on the bottom.if the top t-stat is good check all the others.if all these check ggod you could have a bad timer or motor but this is unussual.after you clean the back and find the problem go to the front,with the two top panel screws out,you want to pop the top panel,get a screw driver,stick it into the space between the top and front panels around two inches from the corner,push down on the screw driver and pop the top up,do this on both sides,now you'll see a 5 /16 inch screw one on each side a few inches down from the top,remove them and disconnect the door switch wires on the right side,a small screw driver can be slid in between the plastic to separate the wire harness,now tilt out the front panel and pull up one side at a time and remove the front panel,with a shop vac vac up any lint,then set it up to blow and blow all the lint from the back to the front so you don't have to pull the drum,blow off the mmotor too.put it back together,now go outside check the outside duct or hood,if anything is blocking it remove it like a cage or screen,go back inside,i use a leaf blower,stick the leaf blower into the vent line that you removed from the back of dryer and blow it outside,hope this helps,if you need any other help let me know.sal de.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGIG8Wo5-N4

Check to see if you have power going to furnace. Behind the bottom panel is the electrical section. You have to hold the panel or door switch closed and check to see if you have 120v going into transformer if you do then check and see if you have 24v coming out of transformer on the secondary side. It then goes to either the board and then to the stat or straight to the stat.

First off, check power:disconnect box outside may have fuses,then check power at fuse box.If you have power(220 volts) then check for 24 volts at T-stat line.Also, make sure T-stat is set to A.C.With power on go outside and listen to condenser unit.If fan is rotating listen for humming .If it is not running, it could be a bad contactor or a bad or capacitor .If it is running check after 5+ minutes if warm air is coming out of the outside unit.Also, wash the condenser unit:start by spraying the hose about 45 degrees downward ,going side to side,and down on all sides.Do Not use High pressure hoses,it will bend coil fins.After it runs for about an hour,or so, go out and see if low pressure line(big one) is sweating and cool, and high pressure line (small line) is warm.

grainger has them- home depot. wire is easy wire one side straight to 1 wire on in coming power the other side use your thermostat to break curcit ie wire into stat out of stat to voltage

place thermostat in line with power ie 115 volt white to white black into stat out of stat into the other side the stat is now controlling heater same for 220 volt wire thermostat to break power. stat are avail online

Sounds like a low voltage transformer is bad.

Possible bad relay.

One side of the low volt trans will have 115 volts.The other side should have 24 volts.Going to the heater.The t stat completes this circut when calling for heat.

Some units have a reset on them or a small control fuse.Near the low volt trans.

The power outage usually takes the parts out that were trying to go or out of a cycle. Like one of the defrost parts. You may have a timer and/or t-stat that was probably blown out. Or another thing could be your defrost bulbs may be blown out. Check the bulbs first. I hope this helps!

check light inside .on? you got power. check compressor in back on? if no then you probably have a bad stat. open door and look inside for numbered dial. turn max hot to max cold back and forth. if compressor comes on you need a new stat probably. remember only a stat a compressor on these units. if its hot stat should send power to compressor. if power is arriving at compressor and not running then start relay and or start cap are probably bad. but if compressor is running and still no cool then your probably out of freon. unfortunitly these boxes are made with steel tubing in the cabinets. when you move them lots of times the tubing rusts and ruptures. then your all done. new freezer time. they are sealed to the point there are not even a place to apply gages to check charge. you can gently remove power and then stat and jump thermomstat to take it out of equation and if compressor runs you need a new stat. constant power comes in one side of the stat and when the sensing tube is heated it closes the points to the outlet side and puts power to the compressor. there may also be a ground wire usually green be sure to observe which two are power in and power out. usually side by side. good luck

All compressors have a 1) Bi-metal t-stat and Most have 

2) Start-Capacitor assist with 3) Plug-in Start Relay.

 All 3 parts are available at Most Appliance Repair stores and are not that expensive. It is usually 1 of the 3 that has failed.

If your Condenser Fan is Running it is one of the three components or a burnt off wire ... Be Safe.

 

Good Luck.