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Posted on Sep 14, 2010

I have a snap on mw 120 everything comes on it feeds but no contact seems like no ground not sure please help. when i got it the polarity was crossed which that they had the positive cable plugged in to the negetive and the neg. in the pos. they were trying to use it that way. now it runs good but no spark from the lead

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 14 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 15, 2009

SOURCE: Have an old hobart handler, wire goes fast then slow etc. already

this is wierd .if your getting an ok bead i would nt change the machine any.is the gas on?change the setting some go up on the wire settings slow .go up on the amps slow. the machine should sound like bacon frying consistently fast.try that and see how it goes.jojogunn

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Anonymous

  • 7 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 21, 2009

SOURCE: wire feed motor wont run

Do the wire drive wheels turn?

if not then trouble shoot wire feed system for defect.

Rayvin1943

Ray Jones

  • 97 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 04, 2009

SOURCE: Chevy K5 Blazer military diesel with 12/24v

Positive of one battery to hot of vehicle wiring harness--neg. of that battery to positive of other battery--negative of that battery to block (ground)

Anonymous

  • 129 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 07, 2009

SOURCE: I am trying to connect my infinity kappa series 52

THe amplifier connects to the crossover.. If you are using an amplifier there is no reason to connect the radio/deck to the crossover.

Anonymous

  • 2702 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 26, 2009

SOURCE: Lincoln SP-135T Does nothing Please HELP

a mig welder must have a good ground to work, also dont try using rusty wire it will jam in the liner, have you checked you are getting wire feed from the neck? just pull the tright and with the welder on it should feed out, if you can stop it its to loos tighten up the pinch roller, is there power on this wire feed? i have often seen new welders strick up the weld with to slow a wire feed and to many amps running, what happens then is it burns the wire away in one flash, right up inside the welding tip and every thing comes to a grinding holt then???? it can and often will just weld the wire into the tip,, witch may mean a new tip is needed, take off the shroud and try to unscrewing the tip if no wire comes out when you pull the triger
as the wire is stuck or welded to it you may be able to get it out still??? but its best to fit a new one in, go one size bigger than the wire your using at first as you are sure to get it very hot??? untill you get the hang of welding,,, use a good gas mix like argon light it will weld stanless steel as well?? but co2 works well on miled steel only, the problem with co2 is its a cold gas and you need a lot more amps to weld the same thickness of steel use it at about 2 to 4 psi only indoors, out doors use it at 4 - 6 psi and if out doors keep out of the wind as much as you can or it will only blow the gas away from your weld if that happens you cant weld without gas being there as a sheeld, dont try using a no gas welder they are like the devel having a bad hair day to use,
even a good welder wont like one? there c*ap!!!!
only try welding clean steel not rusty steel or it will spit like mad at you and you wont get a good weld,
if at all,,one of the most common fults that is
but i bet you have weded the wire to your tip?
its so easy to do at first,,only two word of warning
keep well raped up, sparks well fly and were gloves',,,
and keep your head sheeld on well over your eyes dont ever ever look at the welder when welding it will burn your eyes realy bad and you will wake up in the night feling like some git has just pored sand into your eyes and its going to hert like hell for day's,,,
i find the solor head sheel is far better, its nearly clear when not welding and go's dark in milliseconds you will like them as you can see what you are doing right up till you strick up the ark then it go's dark,,
most welders last for years iv had mine for the last 35 years it a clark 150 turbo mig, and iv doged it to death too,,,
the only thing that could realy go wrong inside them is the rectifier, mains coil or a relay,, not much left in it to go wrong ,
and now iv bored to death good luck with your welding ,,i hope this has helped you out

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I have a120 MW snap-on welder that the wire feed works i accidentally touched to ground clamp sparked, and know nothing. is there a fuse or breaker??? the wire feed works still

Replace your contact tip on the end of the mig gun

Sounds like youve arced it out and the wire is stuck in the end of the contact tip but steel feeding possibly spitting wire out of the drive roll like we like to say birds nest
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Reverse polarity means the power wires coming to the furnace are connected backwards. The black wire should the hot ( 120 volt line) . The white wire should be the neutral. The green should be the ground. Check these connections and test them to make sure they are correct. You should get 120 volt reading between the black and white.120 volts between the black and green and 0 volts between the white and green. Hope this helps.
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I have a pf error on my hayward 400 fdn 2 yr old heater. also it's wired 240 volt ac

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.


A 'PF' error code for a Hayward heater is an electrical supply wiring error. This code will display if 120V polarity is reversed, low voltage is detected, or if the ground path is not sufficient. Reset is immediate after error is corrected. If you are feeding it 240 it can mean one of the 120 legs is low or open or the grounding is bad. It could even be an issue with the transformer or the control board but it is far more likely an electrical supply problem. Start with measuring the incoming line voltage with a good meter. You should see 240 line-to-line and 120 line-to-ground on each leg. If the reading is off by 10% or more there is an issue to correct. If not check the ground next.


If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!


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I have theUB802 model and I'm getting buzzing feed back from speakers. Any suggestions

Check for ground loops. Please read my tip on here in regard to speaker polarity hazard on the A channel output.

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I am concerned of the readings you have given. 120 volts to ground, but 168 volts to neutral? And having 10 amps of current at the "ventor", but only 1 amp for the whole furnace worries me, because power for the "ventor" comes through the furnace.

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The controller boards are sensitive to AC polarity (if you will). Neutral should be tied to neutral on the board. You can check that by testing for voltage between the neutral terminal and chassis ground (assuming the chassis is properly grounded.). The hot leg of incoming power, which should be 120 volts, should be connected to the terminal that says 120 VAC.

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As a heat-A/C tech, you should know the sequence of operation for all furnaces is pretty much the same. The boards, while manufactured by different manufacturers, all operate pretty much the same way.

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