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I have a snap on mw 120 everything comes on it feeds but no contact seems like no ground not sure please help. when i got it the polarity was crossed which that they had the positive cable plugged in to the negetive and the neg. in the pos. they were trying to use it that way. now it runs good but no spark from the lead

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Posted on Mar 15, 2009

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Posted on Mar 21, 2009

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miket756
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SOURCE: Lincoln SP-135T Does nothing Please HELP

a mig welder must have a good ground to work, also dont try using rusty wire it will jam in the liner, have you checked you are getting wire feed from the neck? just pull the tright and with the welder on it should feed out, if you can stop it its to loos tighten up the pinch roller, is there power on this wire feed? i have often seen new welders strick up the weld with to slow a wire feed and to many amps running, what happens then is it burns the wire away in one flash, right up inside the welding tip and every thing comes to a grinding holt then???? it can and often will just weld the wire into the tip,, witch may mean a new tip is needed, take off the shroud and try to unscrewing the tip if no wire comes out when you pull the triger
as the wire is stuck or welded to it you may be able to get it out still??? but its best to fit a new one in, go one size bigger than the wire your using at first as you are sure to get it very hot??? untill you get the hang of welding,,, use a good gas mix like argon light it will weld stanless steel as well?? but co2 works well on miled steel only, the problem with co2 is its a cold gas and you need a lot more amps to weld the same thickness of steel use it at about 2 to 4 psi only indoors, out doors use it at 4 - 6 psi and if out doors keep out of the wind as much as you can or it will only blow the gas away from your weld if that happens you cant weld without gas being there as a sheeld, dont try using a no gas welder they are like the devel having a bad hair day to use,
even a good welder wont like one? there c*ap!!!!
only try welding clean steel not rusty steel or it will spit like mad at you and you wont get a good weld,
if at all,,one of the most common fults that is
but i bet you have weded the wire to your tip?
its so easy to do at first,,only two word of warning
keep well raped up, sparks well fly and were gloves',,,
and keep your head sheeld on well over your eyes dont ever ever look at the welder when welding it will burn your eyes realy bad and you will wake up in the night feling like some git has just pored sand into your eyes and its going to hert like hell for day's,,,
i find the solor head sheel is far better, its nearly clear when not welding and go's dark in milliseconds you will like them as you can see what you are doing right up till you strick up the ark then it go's dark,,
most welders last for years iv had mine for the last 35 years it a clark 150 turbo mig, and iv doged it to death too,,,
the only thing that could realy go wrong inside them is the rectifier, mains coil or a relay,, not much left in it to go wrong ,
and now iv bored to death good luck with your welding ,,i hope this has helped you out

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

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2 Answers

I have a120 MW snap-on welder that the wire feed works i accidentally touched to ground clamp sparked, and know nothing. is there a fuse or breaker??? the wire feed works still


Replace your contact tip on the end of the mig gun

Sounds like youve arced it out and the wire is stuck in the end of the contact tip but steel feeding possibly spitting wire out of the drive roll like we like to say birds nest
a120-mw-snap-welder-wire-feed-works-ykxmuxmugl2srk0lhzhurnhc-1-0.png

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Reverse polarity means the power wires coming to the furnace are connected backwards. The black wire should the hot ( 120 volt line) . The white wire should be the neutral. The green should be the ground. Check these connections and test them to make sure they are correct. You should get 120 volt reading between the black and white.120 volts between the black and green and 0 volts between the white and green. Hope this helps.

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This means the hot ( L1 ) and the neutral connections are reversed.check the 120 volt power to the furnace for the correct polarity also make sure there is a good ground connection. Hope this helps.

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Could be a poor ground at the work piece . The trigger switch might not be applying power to the nozzle. Check fuses and circuit breakers

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You have a dangerous situation here---All modern units (Lamps, TV's, everything) Have a polarized power cord---one side of plug the pin is smaller than other side.

The large side goes to the neutral side of the electrical outlet.

One of two things has happened---either a issue with the electrical outlet which is rather rare except in older houses that have the old style electrical outlets (both pins the same size) Or someone has managed to get a cord in backwards--filed down the large lug on the power cord and put it in backwards.

What happens and can be tested is with it backwards you have "potential" 120 volts being fed back into the cable wire itself--

DO NOT KEEP CHANGING THE FUSE--a simple test with a voltmeter set to AC (wall) voltage from a earth ground (water pipe of metal will show 120 volts on the coax.

The touchy part is any set in the house misconnected can feed this back via the coax!

The cable company may be able to help or NOT> an electrician will be able.

The way I would locate this is with the volt meter hooked to the coax I would disconnect the cable feed from each set or unit in the house one at a time until no voltage reading---then you would know which is causing this issue.

Be advised it can spark which can destroy parts in any of the sets or equipment.

Kind of like if you got shocked when you touched the metal on your car.....something bad is happening.

Please if need ANY help comment here and I will assist.


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Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.


A 'PF' error code for a Hayward heater is an electrical supply wiring error. This code will display if 120V polarity is reversed, low voltage is detected, or if the ground path is not sufficient. Reset is immediate after error is corrected. If you are feeding it 240 it can mean one of the 120 legs is low or open or the grounding is bad. It could even be an issue with the transformer or the control board but it is far more likely an electrical supply problem. Start with measuring the incoming line voltage with a good meter. You should see 240 line-to-line and 120 line-to-ground on each leg. If the reading is off by 10% or more there is an issue to correct. If not check the ground next.


If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!


John

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Check for ground loops. Please read my tip on here in regard to speaker polarity hazard on the A channel output.

Ground loops are common if you don't have everything powered by a singel receptacle. Also if you are using DI's make sure the Ground Lift is set to LIFT.

Start troubleshooting by disconnecting ALL inputs and one at a time re-connecting to find offending input.

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I am concerned of the readings you have given. 120 volts to ground, but 168 volts to neutral? And having 10 amps of current at the "ventor", but only 1 amp for the whole furnace worries me, because power for the "ventor" comes through the furnace.

You should not have 168 volts to anything! Unless somehow 240 volts is feeding the system, and there is a medium resistance short somewhere.

The controller boards are sensitive to AC polarity (if you will). Neutral should be tied to neutral on the board. You can check that by testing for voltage between the neutral terminal and chassis ground (assuming the chassis is properly grounded.). The hot leg of incoming power, which should be 120 volts, should be connected to the terminal that says 120 VAC.

If your getting 168 volts AC somehow, then something is wrong, and you need to disconnect power from this unit until you find the cause.

As a heat-A/C tech, you should know the sequence of operation for all furnaces is pretty much the same. The boards, while manufactured by different manufacturers, all operate pretty much the same way.

Let me know your findings in reply and I will attempt to help you more.

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