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Hello. You likely need to replace the gas valve safety coils. You can do one of 2 things. You can purchase a voltohm meter for under 20 dollars, or you can start replacing components within the burner assembly until you find the problem. The valve is very reliable and rarely fails. One of the most common parts that need replacing in the burner assembly is the valve solenoids. If you choose to purchase one for testing purposes, I'm posting a link now that will show you exactly how to use it. Dont be intimidated by it (you might already know how to use one, but I dont know that). Here is the helpful video. It's easier to see than explain in words. http://applianceassistant.com/safety/how_to_use_a_volt_meter.php http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5133609&diagram_id=28278866#d28278866 LGN2000LW0---zero*
Your dryer will have a cap on the lower left side of the front cabinet. This is a viewing port for observing the burner assembly. I also did a parts search with that model number and found 2 close matches. You will need to look at these links, and then decide with your model number which one is yours. They will help you determing where all of the parts are located within your dryer and burner assembly.
IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, you know that it's okay, you also know that the thermal fuse in the back of the dryer is okay. NEXT, you'll want to see if it turns OFF. If it didnt I'll cover that later. If the ignitor clicks off after a few seconds of glowing bright orange, You know that the flame switch mounted to the left of the burner tube is OKAY as well. At the moment the click of the flame switch is observed, the burner valve should release gas for burner ignition. If the ignitor turns off with no ignition, and you are positive you're getting gas supply to the dryer, you likely will have to replace the two coil valve solenoids on the top of the burner. The two safety coils may gradually fail over weeks, or even months giving longer dry times and only partial heating. As safety coils are failing, they'll work fine for only a short amount of time, and then after about 30 minutes of cycling on and off to maintain the drum's temperature, they will break down and cease to open the valve leaving you with cool or wet clothing at the end of the cycle.
IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT NEVER CLICKS OFF you likely have a bad flame switch (flame sensor).
Here are some helpful links for part replacement in the burner assembly; You will unplug the dryer before any continuity testing or unit disassembly. If you test for continuity on a live circuit, that poses a big risk to you and it will fry your meter. http://www.youtube.com/user/RepairClinic#p/search/1/tMqublMvau0 Flame sensor replacement. To test the flame sensor (located on the burner tube), unplug the wire connector, and put the voltohm meter test leads to the 2 prongs and test for continuity. If it has continuity, it's okay.
I hope that you found this helpful, and that you can solve your problem with it. I will be happy to help you further if you need any assistance. Let me know if you need help, or you get your problem solved. It really makes my day to help someone out.
Check the heating element, burner operation, ignitor, thermal fuse, and the wiring (power cord).
Visually inspect your heating element for any broken or burned areas. The heating element is a coil made from a nickel-chrome alloy, called nichrome.
When the burner is operating properly, the flame should be clean and blue.
If the ignitor is cycling without the burner lighting, you probably have defective electrical coils in the gas valve. These coils look like black cylinders with wires coming out the top of them, and are located near the burner valve assembly. When they get power, they open up and allow the gas to get through to the burner. If this is a new installation, make sure the gas valve is turned on.
If the ignitor doesn’t glow, look for a white or yellowish discoloration, or for a break in the ignitor. If this is something visible, just replace the ignitor.
Two things come to mind when this happens. The duct work is totally plugged up or the spark ignitor is out of order.
Check the vent tubing by completely disconnecting it and cleaqn thoroughly clean. I see one once I took apart and filled a 15 gallong trash bag full of lint. The dyer was three years old and had a 10 foot vent tube. 4 feet of tubing is always recomended at the longest length used. If longer it needs to be cleaned evey few months for 100% efficiency
If the tubing is clean turn on the dryer and listen for the click the sopark ignitor makes to light up the burner. If no click is heard the ignitor is bad
Take a fine file and file the igniter tips and where the spark connects to the burner head. The ignitors get a buildup on them that doesn't allow a clean bright spark. If this doesn't work then you will need to replace your spark module which sends the voltage to the ignitors. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists
First clean all the dust and lint from around the burner and its components, including the sensor which 'tells' the dryer that the ignitor is on or the burner is lit.
There are two different types of ignitors. The most common glows a bright red to light the burner. The other gives off a series of sparks.
In either case, a visual examination should tell you whether the ignitor is working. Before you start the dryer, remove the burner access panel. Have someone start the dryer while you look into the burner unit to see if you see the 'glow plug' or the 'sparker' trying to light the burner. If not, the ignitor is probably bad.
If the ignitor is not the problem, look for dirty or defective sensors that will keep the burner from coming on. If these sensors do not sense the light given off by the ignitor, for safety reasons the burner will not come on.
I find that quite often the ignitor is out of alignment or the glass window is covered with lint. a gas dryer blows air through a
burner assembly to heat the air. The burner assembly consists
essentially of a gas valve, ignitor and a flame sensor. If any
part of the burner assembly malfunctions, the result will be low
or no heat and slow drying of the clothes.
There are two common styles of ignitors,
glow ignitors and spark ignitors. The ignitor ignites the gas
either by heating up and glowing, or by sparking. If the ignitor
fails, the dryer will not heat.
The easiest way to check the ignitor
is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select
a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner
assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should
begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the
ignitor is working.
First, check that the ignitor is working properly. If it is working properly, it should glow an orange color when activated. If the ignitor is defective, it will need replaced. If the ignitor is working properly, the problem is most likely the gas valve coils. These small black coils are situated directly above the gas valves. These solenoids, when energized, open the gas valves and permit the burner to light. If any are defective, the valves cannot open and the burner cannot light. Due to the difficulty in testing these solenoids, it is best to replace both (all) of them at once if they are suspected of being faulty. Hope this helped and best wishes.
AFTER THE BURNER SHUTS DOWN THE 1ST TIME IT SHOULD COME BACK ON WITHIN 1 TO 3 MINUTES. WHEN THE BURNER TRIES TO COME BACK ON YOU'LL HEAR A CLICK AND THE GLOW OF THE IGNITOR SHOULD BE VISIBLE. AFTER 30 TO 60 SECONDS IGNITOR SHOULD FADE AND THE BURNER SHOULD FIRE. IF IGNITOR FADES AND BURNER DOES NOT FIRE YOU WILL NEED TO REPLACE BURNER COILS #279834. IF IGNITOR DOES NOT COME ON YOU WILL HAVE A T STAT OR SENSOR ISSUE. SOUNDS LIKE COILS TO ME. HOPE THIS HELPS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CONTAT ME HUBAPPLIANCE@COMCAST.NET. PLEASE RATE MY RESPONSE.