Question about Dryers
I assume the heating element, high-limit thermostat, and the thermal cut-off are all good and you have electrical knowledge as you have stated that you have checked the circuit and everything is okay. You can bypass the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off on the blower housing if you are in doubt about their condition. Simply disconnect the wires of each component and tape them together or jump a wire between them.
Let's proceed with the troubleshooting. Start by checking and making sure the heating circuit is getting 240 VAC from the power outlet. Check for tripped breakers if there's no 240 VAC supply to the dryer. Proceed with the next troubleshooting if 240 VAC is confirmed.
Remove the screws from the rear flange of the dryer’s top cover then lift the rear of the top cover and slide it back so the tabs clear the catches on the bracket, and then remove the cover from the unit. The top cover screws have nylon flat washers and make sure to use these screws when you reinstall the top cover. Make sure that the tabs slide under the bracket catches when you reinstall the top cover.
Remove the screws securing the machine control electronics board bracket on the left hand side of the dryer cabinet and pull the bracket away from the side of the dryer to access the connectors.
Disconnect the wires from the heater relay terminals on the machine control electronics board then tape them together or jump a wire between them.
Reinstall the machine control electronics board bracket back in place and the top cover then plug and start the dryer. The machine control electronics board is malfunctioning if the dryer heats up. Otherwise the centrifugal switch on the motor for the heating circuit is not working and needs to be replaced if the dryer still fails to heat up with the heater relay bypassed.
The machine control electronics board needs to be replaced if it is malfunctioning.
Posted on Sep 14, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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