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We are replacing the white plastic washer, but don't remember what order the washers were in when removed.

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The white neoprene piece from the seal kit is on the bottom, then place the metal washer in and the bolt on top of it. Then insert the black plastic piece on top and insert into the sump area and tighten it down with a screwdriver. If you need further assistance, please call customer service at 800-352-2866.

Posted on Oct 20, 2010

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Can I remove the fan shroud while I am replacing the radiator?


Hi John:
Those things can be (make that ARE) a pain.
I've found it essential to remove the shroud in order to replace the radiator.
Were you intending to run the engine without the shroud installed? That's not necessarily a good idea, both from a cooling and safety point of view.
Would it be possible for you to repair the shroud? It's quite rewarding to patch something up with pop rivets (use with washers) and save some inconvenience as well as $.
Once you figure out what holds the washer bottle in place you tend to remember. Skinned knuckles and broken parts are a great teacher.
Best of luck.
Cheers.

Feb 01, 2016 | 2008 Dodge Ram Pickup 1500

1 Answer

Squealing on wash very load on spin clunking


I found that my squeal was coming from the little rubber boot that seals the pump from the impeller.



I silenced the squeal as follows...



Give it a try. It might work for you, too. It takes about 30 minutes.



  1. Unplug the washer.
  2. Pull it away from the wall a foot or two.
  3. Tip the washer back toward the wall.
  4. Have a strong, reliable helper hold the washer in that position -- firmly against the wall.
  5. Get down on the floor. Lie on your back and put your head and arm under the washer (that's why you need a good helper!).
  6. Unplug the electrical wiring to the pump. (The GWL11 has 2 wiring connectors.)
  7. Slide a shallow plastic dishpan under the pump to catch any water.
  8. Find and bend back slightly (don't break it!) the plastic retaining latch that holds the pump in place.
  9. Rotate the pump counter-clockwise about 60 degrees, until it comes free.
  10. Note the angle/position of the pump as you pull it free. This is the same angle/position you'll need when you put it back in, of course.
  11. Get out from under the washer -- with the pump, of course.
  12. Have your helper lower the washer to the floor.
  13. Have your helper clean up any excess water that runs onto the floor.
  14. Put the pump on a well-lit table or other surface covered with newspaper.
  15. Using a straight blade screwdriver, pry directly underneath the plastic fan (right up against the shaft) to carefully and slowly work it off. Don't lose the small plastic fan bushing!! - which is actually what you are prying against. Also, as you remove the fan and bushing from the shaft, note carefully how the bushing fits on the shaft. There is a right way and a wrong way to put it back!
  16. Now, you are ready to remove the motor/shaft/impeller assembly from the bearings/windings assembly. But first!! Find on the white plastic impeller frame the locking tab that was engaged with the latch in step 8 above - and put a piece of tape on the black bearing/windings assembly to mark the tab's position for reassembly.
  17. Using a 7mm socket (or end) wrench, remove the 2 bolts holding the impeller/shaft assembly to the bearings/windings assembly.
  18. Carefully pull the impeller/shaft assembly from the bearings/windings.
  19. Spray the bearings with a high-quality silicone lubricant. Buy a small can. It is worth it. Do not use WD-40 or 3-in-1 Oil!
  20. Using toothpicks, Q-tips, and paper towels, clean any dust, dirt, and hair from the bearings.
  21. Spray the impeller shaft and rubber boot inside the white plastic framework with silicone lubricant.
  22. Using toothpicks and bits of paper towel, clean the shaft around the boot. Move the shaft back and forth a few millimeters to compact the dusty, hairy crud - so you can spear it with a toothpick and pull it away. Using a toothpick, stuff a shred of paper towel inside the white plastic framework and rotate the shaft. Remove the dirty paper towel shred. Spray more silicone onto shaft and boot. Repeat this cleaning process until paper towel comes out clean. It is a little like building a ship in a bottle - but quite doable.
  23. Once everything is clean as a whistle, put a spritz of silicone lubricant in each sleeve bearing and on the impeller shaft near the rubber boot.
  24. Re-assemble everything in the reverse order starting with step 18 above.
  25. Test out your fix with your helper and...
  26. If no squeal, bask in the glow of gratitude and self-confidence!
  27. If it still squeals, order a new pump.

BTW - Cleaning all dust out from under the washer a couple times a year should help prevent pump squealing in the future.

Mar 10, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washing is squealing during filling process??


I found that my squeal was coming from the little rubber boot that seals the pump from the impeller.



I silenced the squeal as follows...



Give it a try. It might work for you, too. It takes about 30 minutes.

  1. Unplug the washer.
  2. Pull it away from the wall a foot or two.
  3. Tip the washer back toward the wall.
  4. Have a strong, reliable helper hold the washer in that position -- firmly against the wall.
  5. Get down on the floor. Lie on your back and put your head and arm under the washer (that's why you need a good helper!).
  6. Unplug the electrical wiring to the pump. (The GWL11 has 2 wiring connectors.)
  7. Slide a shallow plastic dishpan under the pump to catch any water.
  8. Find and bend back slightly (don't break it!) the plastic retaining latch that holds the pump in place.
  9. Rotate the pump counter-clockwise about 60 degrees, until it comes free.
  10. Note the angle/position of the pump as you pull it free. This is the same angle/position you'll need when you put it back in, of course.
  11. Get out from under the washer -- with the pump, of course.
  12. Have your helper lower the washer to the floor.
  13. Have your helper clean up any excess water that runs onto the floor.
  14. Put the pump on a well-lit table or other surface covered with newspaper.
  15. Using a straight blade screwdriver, pry directly underneath the plastic fan (right up against the shaft) to carefully and slowly work it off. Don't lose the small plastic fan bushing!! - which is actually what you are prying against. Also, as you remove the fan and bushing from the shaft, note carefully how the bushing fits on the shaft. There is a right way and a wrong way to put it back!
  16. Now, you are ready to remove the motor/shaft/impeller assembly from the bearings/windings assembly. But first!! Find on the white plastic impeller frame the locking tab that was engaged with the latch in step 8 above - and put a piece of tape on the black bearing/windings assembly to mark the tab's position for reassembly.
  17. Using a 7mm socket (or end) wrench, remove the 2 bolts holding the impeller/shaft assembly to the bearings/windings assembly.
  18. Carefully pull the impeller/shaft assembly from the bearings/windings.
  19. Spray the bearings with a high-quality silicone lubricant. Buy a small can. It is worth it. Do not use WD-40 or 3-in-1 Oil!
  20. Using toothpicks, Q-tips, and paper towels, clean any dust, dirt, and hair from the bearings.
  21. Spray the impeller shaft and rubber boot inside the white plastic framework with silicone lubricant.
  22. Using toothpicks and bits of paper towel, clean the shaft around the boot. Move the shaft back and forth a few millimeters to compact the dusty, hairy crud - so you can spear it with a toothpick and pull it away. Using a toothpick, stuff a shred of paper towel inside the white plastic framework and rotate the shaft. Remove the dirty paper towel shred. Spray more silicone onto shaft and boot. Repeat this cleaning process until paper towel comes out clean. It is a little like building a ship in a bottle - but quite doable.
  23. Once everything is clean as a whistle, put a spritz of silicone lubricant in each sleeve bearing and on the impeller shaft near the rubber boot.
  24. Re-assemble everything in the reverse order starting with step 18 above.
  25. Test out your fix with your helper and...
  26. If no squeal, bask in the glow of gratitude and self-confidence!
  27. If it still squeals, order a new pump.

BTW - Cleaning all dust out from under the washer a couple times a year should help prevent pump squealing in the future.

Feb 28, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Moderl# GWL11 washmachine, approx 3-4 yrs old. Makes Squeeling noise when it starts, lasts about 30 seconds. Also noticed that the basket is sitting almost 1" from top (compared to new ones in store)


I found that my squeal was coming from the little rubber boot that seals the pump from the impeller.



I silenced the squeal as follows...



Give it a try. It might work for you, too. It takes about 30 minutes.

Unplug the washer.

Pull it away from the wall a foot or two.

Tip the washer back toward the wall.

Have a strong, reliable helper hold the washer in that position -- firmly against the wall.

Get down on the floor. Lie on your back and put your head and arm under the washer (that's why you need a good helper!).

Unplug the electrical wiring to the pump. (The GWL11 has 2 wiring connectors.)

Slide a shallow plastic dishpan under the pump to catch any water.

Find and bend back slightly (don't break it!) the plastic retaining latch that holds the pump in place.

Rotate the pump counter-clockwise about 60 degrees, until it comes free.

Note the angle/position of the pump as you pull it free. This is the same angle/position you'll need when you put it back in, of course.

Get out from under the washer -- with the pump, of course.

Have your helper lower the washer to the floor.

Have your helper clean up any excess water that runs onto the floor.

Put the pump on a well-lit table or other surface covered with newspaper.

Using a straight blade screwdriver, pry directly underneath the plastic fan (right up against the shaft) to carefully and slowly work it off. Don't lose the small plastic fan bushing!! - which is actually what you are prying against. Also, as you remove the fan and bushing from the shaft, note carefully how the bushing fits on the shaft. There is a right way and a wrong way to put it back!

Now, you are ready to remove the motor/shaft/impeller assembly from the bearings/windings assembly. But first!! Find on the white plastic impeller frame the locking tab that was engaged with the latch in step 8 above - and put a piece of tape on the black bearing/windings assembly to mark the tab's position for reassembly.

Using a 7mm socket (or end) wrench, remove the 2 bolts holding the impeller/shaft assembly to the bearings/windings assembly.

Carefully pull the impeller/shaft assembly from the bearings/windings.

Spray the bearings with a high-quality silicone lubricant. Buy a small can. It is worth it. Do not use WD-40 or 3-in-1 Oil!

Using toothpicks, Q-tips, and paper towels, clean any dust, dirt, and hair from the bearings.

Spray the impeller shaft and rubber boot inside the white plastic framework with silicone lubricant.

Using toothpicks and bits of paper towel, clean the shaft around the boot. Move the shaft back and forth a few millimeters to compact the dusty, hairy crud - so you can spear it with a toothpick and pull it away. Using a toothpick, stuff a shred of paper towel inside the white plastic framework and rotate the shaft. Remove the dirty paper towel shred. Spray more silicone onto shaft and boot. Repeat this cleaning process until paper towel comes out clean. It is a little like building a ship in a bottle - but quite doable.

Once everything is clean as a whistle, put a spritz of silicone lubricant in each sleeve bearing and on the impeller shaft near the rubber boot.

Re-assemble everything in the reverse order starting with step 18 above.

Test out your fix with your helper and...

If no squeal, bask in the glow of gratitude and self-confidence!

If it still squeals, order a new pump.

BTW - Cleaning all dust out from under the washer a couple times a year should help prevent pump squealing in the future.

Jan 18, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Machine makes a fairly loud squeeling noise for about a minute when water begins to recirculate at beginning of cycle


I found that my squeal was coming from the little rubber boot that seals the pump from the impeller.



I silenced the squeal as follows...



Give it a try. It might work for you, too. It takes about 30 minutes.

  1. Unplug the washer.
  2. Pull it away from the wall a foot or two.
  3. Tip the washer back toward the wall.
  4. Have a strong, reliable helper hold the washer in that position -- firmly against the wall.
  5. Get down on the floor. Lie on your back and put your head and arm under the washer (that's why you need a good helper!).
  6. Unplug the electrical wiring to the pump. (The GWL11 has 2 wiring connectors.)
  7. Slide a shallow plastic dishpan under the pump to catch any water.
  8. Find and bend back slightly (don't break it!) the plastic retaining latch that holds the pump in place.
  9. Rotate the pump counter-clockwise about 60 degrees, until it comes free.
  10. Note the angle/position of the pump as you pull it free. This is the same angle/position you'll need when you put it back in, of course.
  11. Get out from under the washer -- with the pump, of course.
  12. Have your helper lower the washer to the floor.
  13. Have your helper clean up any excess water that runs onto the floor.
  14. Put the pump on a well-lit table or other surface covered with newspaper.
  15. Using a straight blade screwdriver, pry directly underneath the plastic fan (right up against the shaft) to carefully and slowly work it off. Don't lose the small plastic fan bushing!! - which is actually what you are prying against. Also, as you remove the fan and bushing from the shaft, note carefully how the bushing fits on the shaft. There is a right way and a wrong way to put it back!
  16. Now, you are ready to remove the motor/shaft/impeller assembly from the bearings/windings assembly. But first!! Find on the white plastic impeller frame the locking tab that was engaged with the latch in step 8 above - and put a piece of tape on the black bearing/windings assembly to mark the tab's position for reassembly.
  17. Using a 7mm socket (or end) wrench, remove the 2 bolts holding the impeller/shaft assembly to the bearings/windings assembly.
  18. Carefully pull the impeller/shaft assembly from the bearings/windings.
  19. Spray the bearings with a high-quality silicone lubricant. Buy a small can. It is worth it. Do not use WD-40 or 3-in-1 Oil!
  20. Using toothpicks, Q-tips, and paper towels, clean any dust, dirt, and hair from the bearings.
  21. Spray the impeller shaft and rubber boot inside the white plastic framework with silicone lubricant.
  22. Using toothpicks and bits of paper towel, clean the shaft around the boot. Move the shaft back and forth a few millimeters to compact the dusty, hairy crud - so you can spear it with a toothpick and pull it away. Using a toothpick, stuff a shred of paper towel inside the white plastic framework and rotate the shaft. Remove the dirty paper towel shred. Spray more silicone onto shaft and boot. Repeat this cleaning process until paper towel comes out clean. It is a little like building a ship in a bottle - but quite doable.
  23. Once everything is clean as a whistle, put a spritz of silicone lubricant in each sleeve bearing and on the impeller shaft near the rubber boot.
  24. Re-assemble everything in the reverse order starting with step 18 above.
  25. Test out your fix with your helper and...
  26. If no squeal, bask in the glow of gratitude and self-confidence!
  27. If it still squeals, order a new pump.

BTW - Cleaning all dust out from under the washer a couple times a year should help prevent pump squealing in the future.

Jan 09, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Wash machine makes squealing sound


I found that my squeal was coming from the little rubber boot that seals the pump from the impeller.



I silenced the squeal as follows...



Give it a try. It might work for you, too. It takes about 30 minutes.

  1. Unplug the washer.
  2. Pull it away from the wall a foot or two.
  3. Tip the washer back toward the wall.
  4. Have a strong, reliable helper hold the washer in that position -- firmly against the wall.
  5. Get down on the floor. Lie on your back and put your head and arm under the washer (that's why you need a good helper!).
  6. Unplug the electrical wiring to the pump. (The GWL11 has 2 wiring connectors.)
  7. Slide a shallow plastic dishpan under the pump to catch any water.
  8. Find and bend back slightly (don't break it!) the plastic retaining latch that holds the pump in place.
  9. Rotate the pump counter-clockwise about 60 degrees, until it comes free.
  10. Note the angle/position of the pump as you pull it free. This is the same angle/position you'll need when you put it back in, of course.
  11. Get out from under the washer -- with the pump, of course.
  12. Have your helper lower the washer to the floor.
  13. Have your helper clean up any excess water that runs onto the floor.
  14. Put the pump on a well-lit table or other surface covered with newspaper.
  15. Using a straight blade screwdriver, pry directly underneath the plastic fan (right up against the shaft) to carefully and slowly work it off. Don't lose the small plastic fan bushing!! - which is actually what you are prying against. Also, as you remove the fan and bushing from the shaft, note carefully how the bushing fits on the shaft. There is a right way and a wrong way to put it back!
  16. Now, you are ready to remove the motor/shaft/impeller assembly from the bearings/windings assembly. But first!! Find on the white plastic impeller frame the locking tab that was engaged with the latch in step 8 above - and put a piece of tape on the black bearing/windings assembly to mark the tab's position for reassembly.
  17. Using a 7mm socket (or end) wrench, remove the 2 bolts holding the impeller/shaft assembly to the bearings/windings assembly.
  18. Carefully pull the impeller/shaft assembly from the bearings/windings.
  19. Spray the bearings with a high-quality silicone lubricant. Buy a small can. It is worth it. Do not use WD-40 or 3-in-1 Oil!
  20. Using toothpicks, Q-tips, and paper towels, clean any dust, dirt, and hair from the bearings.
  21. Spray the impeller shaft and rubber boot inside the white plastic framework with silicone lubricant.
  22. Using toothpicks and bits of paper towel, clean the shaft around the boot. Move the shaft back and forth a few millimeters to compact the dusty, hairy crud - so you can spear it with a toothpick and pull it away. Using a toothpick, stuff a shred of paper towel inside the white plastic framework and rotate the shaft. Remove the dirty paper towel shred. Spray more silicone onto shaft and boot. Repeat this cleaning process until paper towel comes out clean. It is a little like building a ship in a bottle - but quite doable.
  23. Once everything is clean as a whistle, put a spritz of silicone lubricant in each sleeve bearing and on the impeller shaft near the rubber boot.
  24. Re-assemble everything in the reverse order starting with step 18 above.
  25. Test out your fix with your helper and...
  26. If no squeal, bask in the glow of gratitude and self-confidence!
  27. If it still squeals, order a new pump.

BTW - Cleaning all dust out from under the washer a couple times a year should help prevent pump squealing in the future.

Dec 07, 2010 | Fisher Paykel EcoSmart GWL15

1 Answer

Bottom door drags on the bottom right corner. how to ajust to even the door out to shut properly?


Loosen the screws on the top usually under a plastic cap that comes off to expose the hinge there will be 3 then move the door around and retighten them. If it needs to be adjusted up the easiest way is to remove the top hinge and then pick straight up on the door it will come off the bottom hinge look for plastic washers on top and bottom remember where they go you can add a couple metal washers on the bottom hinge then put the plastic one back on this will raise the door slightly. You can order plastic washers or even get brass ones from a hardware store they work fine. good luck

Aug 10, 2010 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Clothes must be perfectly balanced or washer will shake and walk


The snubber ring needs to be replaced. It's not an issue of balancing the clothes. The ring is plastic and wears down. Are there white plastic shavings under the washer? Those are from the ring. You can order it on PartSelect.com, and there are instructions on how to replace it.

Apr 25, 2009 | Maytag HAV2557 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Water leaking from white plastic peice under washer


If this piece had 2 hoses attached and slides onto the motor, then it is the pump. you will need to replace it. Part # 3363394 available both new (27.99) and used (9.99) from timerking.com Hope this helps!

Jan 07, 2009 | Roper RAS6233KQ Top Load Washer

2 Answers

How to remove freezer door


push colored rings toward white collar while pulling hose from coupling

Jan 31, 2008 | Whirlpool ED2SHAXM Side by Side...

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