Question about Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Unit will not go into defrost cycle

Obviously the reversing valve is not being energized. I did a continuity test on the solenoid and it is not open. This leaves me with the thermistor or ultimately the control board. I did an ohm reading on the thermistor but I don't know what resistance I should be getting at room temp and some where around 32 degrees.Any one that might have these readings sure would appreciate...thanks

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 2 Answers

I have the same problem. Have replaced all the other components. I am trying to get a new solenoid from Sears. They are out and are trying to figure out where they can get them. In the mean time take as much of it apart as you can. Clean mating surfaces with very fine emory cloth. Spray metal surfaces with WD40. Reassemble and put a small piece of duct tape on top of solenoid to keep water and condensate out. Unplug and replug solenoid in on pc board. I am just waiting now to see if this works.

Posted on Jun 26, 2008

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

What do I do when the dishwasher is stuck on P2?


GENERAL INFO ERROR CODES PROBLEM PARTS SOLUTION E1 NOT ENOUGH WATER INLET VALVE CLEAN OR REPLACE E2 NOT DRAINING DRAIN PUMP KINKED HOSE--ADJUST HOSE TOO HIGH--ADJUST PUMP FAULTY--REPLACE E3 WATER TEMP TOO COOL THERMOSTAT STAT OPEN--REPLACE TIMER CONTACTS OPEN-- REPLACE HEATER OPEN--- REPLACE ABOVE FAULTS CAN ALSO CAUSE TIMER TO STALL(TIMER STOPS TO ALLOW HEATING OF WATER) TIMER WOULD STALL AT THE 2,5,7 AND 10 O'CLOCK POSITION E4 OVERFLOW SWITCH ACTIVATED CHECK FLOAT IS FREE CHECK LEVEL OF D/W SOAP- AMOUNT AND KIND WASHARM STUCK OR SPLIT E5 E6 & E7 TEMP SENSOR THERMOSTAT REPLACE ERROR CODES: DDW497W Problem Solution Error 1 Water supply is turned off Turn water supply on Detached / damaged pipe Replace / readjust pipe Low water pressure Requires min. 0.04Mpa water pressure Defective water fill valve Replace water fill valve Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Heavy water usage elsewhere in home Use unit when water usage is at a minimum Defective electric control Replace electric control Error 2 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Damaged/defective drain pump Repair or replace drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 3 Voltage is too low Minimum voltage of 198 V Damaged/ defective thermostat Replace the thermostat Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Damaged/ defective heating element Replace the heating element Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 4 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Loose or damaged sump pump/drain pump Repair or replace sump pump/drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Loose heater element Tighten heater element mounting nuts Loose spray arm Tighten spray arm Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Defective Microswitch Replace microswitch Float- defective or not in the right position Reajust / replace float Error 5 Damaged/ defective power switch Replace power switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 6 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too low Temperature should be above -20? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 7 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too high Temperature should be below 120? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric contr

Nov 27, 2014 | Danby DDW611WLED

1 Answer

The unit starts but the fan dont run


It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Jan 03, 2010 | LG LHD45EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

AMCOR SD10 Dehumidifier, Need to replace the electric fan motor.


Take it out, and search the part number on line, they are bout $40 with s/h. however my current discovery:
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 30, 2009 | Amcor Dehumidifiers

1 Answer

Have power and it runs. fan will not go on.


It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 25, 2009 | Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Dehumidifier will not extract any moisture & produces no heat


fan not blowing air?
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 23, 2009 | Dehumidifiers

1 Answer

It turns on and the filter is clean but it doesn't remove the humidity from our basement. No water accumulates in the pan after hours of running.


If the room temperature is close to 60, the coils may be frozen (completely encased in ice). If this is the case, move it where the water can drain off - about 1 gallon which may NOT run into the drain bucket.
I out mine over the floor drain.
Turn off and it will defrost over night.
Only specially made dehumidifiers work below a room temp of 60 degrees (the temp of a basement in winter).
Does it need to be running? A digital humidity sensor from Radio Shack is cheap and may tell you the humidity is OK - only 50% or less


Is the fan blowing out air? If not
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND


Dec 16, 2009 | Haier HD306 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

We have a LG LHD65EBL Serial # 603TAAC20984. My Husband said that he thinks the armature in the fan motor is bad. Everything in or basement went moldy over the summer. We heard it running but it was not...


Sure, you can find parts on line, just search "lg parts" then look for you model.
http://www.lge.com/us/support/parts/support-find-parts.jsp

If the fan is not working:Take it out, and search the part number on line, they are bout $40 with s/h. however my current discovery:
It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND
t working the likely problem is:

Dec 06, 2009 | LG LHD65EBL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Solenoid is not opening for water to ice maker


The only thing that controls the water valve on the IM side is the IM itself. If you can power up the water valve manually and it works fine then you need to take a look at the IM

Jun 10, 2009 | Goldstar DH504EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

How do you test solenoid?


no there is not the freon should never escape you have a leak in the system

Jul 09, 2008 | Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Constant on-off cycle


If the unit is freezing up I suggest replacing the sensor assembly. Just replaced mine because the thermistor that is on the suction line went bad and would not send the reversing valve into defrost.

Oct 09, 2007 | Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

Not finding what you are looking for?
Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier Logo

Related Topics:

134 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kenmore Dehumidifiers Experts

Bill Long

Level 3 Expert

588 Answers

Mike Squire

Level 2 Expert

420 Answers

Cindy Wells

Level 3 Expert

5384 Answers

Are you a Kenmore Dehumidifier Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...