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I have an old model electric Jenn-Air D-120. Last night my oven bottom burner cought on fire and burned up. Can this be fixed or is the stove shot.

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Usually the bake elements are relatively cheap and easy to replace. Use your model # and click on one of the links to the right and search for your part to make sure that it is still available. It would be worth repair.

Posted on May 16, 2008

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Jenn-air electric down draft stove has power to the controlls but the power to the elements is not working on the stove and the oven. is there a fuse? What is my problem?


The electrical connections are as follows: L1 goes to one of the 120 VAC hot lines. N goes to neutral. L2 goes to the other 120 VAC hot line. You may have a separate ground wire (required on all new installations) connected to the stove frame. L1 + L2 = 240 VAC.

Your controls are connected to L1 and neutral. The wiring here is good. The heater elements are connected to L1 and L2 with no connection to neutral. Either the L2 line is open, or the L1 connection that provides power to the heaters is open (probably a different wire than the one providing power to the controls). L2 is the most probable culprit, and the problem could be the wall socket, the stove cord, or a bad connection inside the stove. (I recently fixed a case like this - both the socket and the plug on the cord were burned out.)

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I'm wondering if my Jenn-Air Model JER8885QCS needs a new probe or not. It's a...


As oven probes age, they can sometimes generate error codes on kitchen ranges and render them inoperative. The error code varies between models, but can be found with the technical documentation that comes with your range. Most manufacturers place a tech sheet somewhere along the back of the range, or inside the console for qualified technicians to use as a troubleshooting aid. Refer to this if an “F” code is displayed on your operator console. The probe may also exhibit other symptoms without generating an error code. You could have undesired heating results (too hot or too cold), or slow preheat times.

The location of the oven probe can vary on different models as well. It will be mounted on the back or side of the oven wall (usually in the upper right or upper left corner). If you suspect you have a bad oven probe, a resistance check can be performed to determine if the probe is good. To accomplish this, unplug the range and remove the back panel. There are still dangerous voltages present even when the oven is not on. There will be two heat insulated wires coming from the oven probe behind the oven. Disconnect the wires and perform a resistance reading across both wires at room temperature. If the probe is good, it should read around 1100-1200 ohms*. If the reading is too low (shorted) or too high (open), replace it. However, I would take a good look at the interconnecting wiring FIRST. If you have a connector plug on the oven probe, often the plug pins will oxidize and not make good contact. This gives false readings and can lead to erroneous error codes. Some manufacturers recommend cutting the connector plug off completely and hardwiring the leads together by using heat resistant ceramic wire lugs. This provides a more permanent and reliable connection. The lugs can be purchased at most hardware stores. A new oven probe roughly costs about $35 - $45 and can be found on line at several appliance parts websites. Higher end model prices may be more.

To replace the oven probe, simply remove the mounting screw from inside the oven cavity, disconnect the wires and pull the probe out. Insert the new probe by feeding the wires through the opening in the back of the oven first and out the back through the insulation (a long screwdriver can assist you in making a visible hole through the heat insulation to feed the wires easier). Once you have the wires through the back of the oven, reinsert the mounting screw and connect the wires leads together. Reinstall back panel.

*NOTE: Keep in mind resistance readings will be higher if the probe is hot. Make sure you check the temperature at room temperature.

I hope this information is helpful..

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The exact same thing just happened to our same model last night. Did Jenn-Air fix it?

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The most common reason a gas oven won't heat is a bad igniter. It is located near the valve and burner under the oven bottom. You can usually see it glow orange just before the fire lights. Most GE ranges take a cylindrical igniter part #WB2X9154 or #WB13K21 rectangular igniter.

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I have a Jenn-air electric stove model S125, which is about 20 yrs old. Lately, the ventilation system quits after about 25 minutes. I usually turn it on manually, but it goes on automatically during...


The answer your provided by email only confirmed what I suspected -- that the vent system was probably overheating and would cut out at a certain point.
Thank you for fast reply. I may have to get a pro to confirm this, as I'm an old lady with NO skills for taking stove apart and installing new vent motor.

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You got one or more of the burner switches wet. (It usually happens when you wash the knobs and water stays in the holes until you replace it on the shaft) If just water they may work after a day or two. try using a hair dryer, Keep it at least 12 inches away. If oven cleaner or other chemical got inside switches they may need to be replaced. If you can't dry them out. Disconnect the wires from all but one switch at a time and see which one/s need to be replaced. Sometimes the electric part of the switch can be seperated from the gas part and replaced seperately. DO NOT LEAVE THE STOVE PLUGGED IN until you fix this problem. There have been reports of fires started from this electrical problem. You could also burn out the spark ignightor. The fire problems have been mostly with Maytag/Jenn air products but my whirlpool blew a fuse and shot sparks when this happened to me. I just replacet the whole cooktop as my gas valves were one piece units and way to expensive to repair.

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this a common complaint when the element burns out it is scary to see but all you need to do is replace element

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