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Overlocker not cutting and, rolling fabric and tangling thread. It began when I went over a seam. It began to roll the fabric under rather than cutting. It then stopped and tangled the thread. Tried replacing the botom cutter but the top cutter seems to move from where it should be. Isn't it supposed to be on the right of the bottom rather than moving to the left? When it moves to the left (on it's own) the problem starts again.

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Look on yu tube for a video on doing a rolled hem, and you'll see how to move the blades. perhaps you have accidently just moved them and need to engage them properly; good luck

Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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Why does fabric get caugh on the roll hem devise when over locking


this sounds like an overlocker/serger machine you are using? if the fabric is catching on the overlocking tongue it could be a number of factors, have you lifted the top cutting blade out of the way and forgot to put it back into place? That would be my first thought, the top and bottom blade move against each other cutting the fabric. Rolled hemming usually requires the blade to be set on about 2, or middle of its setting range, the stitch finger is pulled back out of the stitching area, top looper thread is loosened off and bottom looper thread is tightened up, resulting in the top looper thread wrapping around the edge of the fabric and pulling the cut edge down under within the seam, forming the rolled hem.

May 13, 2014 | Elna Sewing Machines

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Bernette 334D overlocker - the edge of the fabric rolls under - can someone please tell me which thread needs adjusting? I only seem to make it worse...I don't think I have ever been able to get this...


I can help you with your 334D as I have the same machine; there is several ways to adjust the stitching width but firstly check the stitching finger position is forward not back for rolled hemming. There is a little lever that is on the side of the cutting plate just in front of the foot and feed dogs, you need to push this forward; this inserts a stitching finger into the needle plate and the overlock seam forms around it. When you pull it back the finger retracts to form rolled hemming where you want the fabric to roll under. So hopefully this is all that is happening now with yours but I'll go through the whole process for clarity and others.

This is how I set up for a new fabric project. Turn the tension dials for all four threads to 5. Your needle tensions should not need to be changed often; perhaps just if from the right side of a seam you can see the needle stitch, you may tighten it fractionally. Stitch length knob on the side by the flywheel should be on about 2 and a half and the differential knob on zero also.

Now you want to adjust the cutting blade position firstly to get the width of seam best suited to the weight and type of fabric you are going to seam. If you are going to use the overlocker to join two pieces of fabric in a 4 thread seam to assemble a garment, then always test with two layers too. And if you are going to just neaten a single layer seam allowance, then test on just a single layer and set up for that.

I'm assuming you are seaming 4 thread but the comments are the same for the 3 thread, you just take out the left or right hand needle first or just cut the thread to that needle and leave it in place to get the 3 thread stitch. (Obviously if you are seaming something delicate like silk, take the unused needle out as it will leave holes in your fabric. Be careful when changing needles, use tweezers to hold the needle right up into the housing and never unscrew the screw too far, just enough to get the needles in and out. And always manually turn the flywheel towards you through a stitch sequence afterwards to make sure you've got the needles clearing the loopers, if you hear them touching, recheck needles are fully into housing.)

If you are seaming something light then you'll want a narrower seam. Have you moved your blade before? If not, you need to turn the needle to the highest point, open the front cover and raise the pressure foot and swing it to the side so you can see better. Now put pressure on the upper cutting blade towards the right to release the spring on it, then swing it upwards out of the cutting position. Adjust the position of the lower fixed blade by turning the knob that is nearby to it. You'll see the blade moving over. Once you get used to making this change, you can just put pressure onto the upper blade to release it with one hand, and turn the knob to move the bottom blade with the other.

If you move it towards the right it will trim further away from your needles giving you a wider seam and if you move towards the left you'll get a narrower seam, ie it cuts closer to the needles. So set it to the position you want depending on what you are seaming. Now relower the upper blade into position, swing pressure foot back into place and test stitch again on fabric offcuts. Take a look at the seam. Is the fabric "tunnelling" inside the seam? if so, release the tensions on the upper and lower loopers by a half increment only. Test again. Repeat process until tunnelling is gone and fabric is sitting flat inside the threads.

If the threads are looping off the edge of the fabric, then increase the tensions on the upper and lower loopers by a half increment only. Test again. Repeat process until the threads are sitting right up against the cut edge, and meeting right on the edge.

That is basically it - please feel free to ask me again for more help is this hasn't been clear or you still struggle with this machine. I presume that you don't have the instruction manual for it so I could scan a page or two if this will help.

This is a really good quality overlocker so don't give up on it; it sounds like you have just never been shown how to use it fully or never had the manual; consider purchasing one from Bernina or online as it is very instructive. If you find that you still struggle with getting the stitch tensions right, its a good idea to spend an hour or two with some calico and thread it up with four different coloured threads like the diagram inside the looper cover, then make stitching samples and adjust until its right. You can make a four thread, three thread wide with left needle, three thread narrow with right needle, 3 thread rolled hem and flat lock. Write down the tension numbers, stitch length and blade position onto the fabric sample and keep these in a note book for future reference. This will help you to remember what you need to change when you want to use that stitch type again.

And my last suggestion, if you can find a good sewing machine dealership or fabric store that runs classes, see if they run one for "introduction to overlockers" - I took a class from the Bernina dealer I bought my machine from back in 1992 and it was fantastic. I've used mine for bridal veils with fishing line, made table cloths, curtains, cushions, sewed dozens of knit garments for the kids and made most of my own clothes with my trusty Elna and this overlocker; its a very strong machine and better quality than many others on the market.

Oct 08, 2011 | Bernina Bernette 75

1 Answer

How do I set up my babylock serger for a rolled hem? What is the tension to be set at?


I don't know your babylock well, some of these have automatic tensions and electronic stitch selection. But a rolled hem is achieved on any overlocker in the following way; the actual dials and knobs might vary a bit.

Firstly there is a stitch finger that you need to change or retract so that the thread can roll the fabric rather than staying flat. For a normal seam this finger sticks out in the area where the loopers and needle form the stitch holding the cut edge flat until the seam is made over it. But for rolled hems you want to retract this finger so it does roll.

On the Bernettes this is a little lever in front of the stitching area that you pull back to retract the finger. Have a look around where the stitch forms and you should see the finger. Some machines, its a part you change on the needle plate with a screw driver, or just move a switch or lever.

You want the right hand needle in place, remove the left hand needle.

Thread upper looper with wooly overlock thread, this is a fluffy nylon that pulls flat under tension but relaxes and "fills" out once its stitched into place. Gives that lovely covered look you see on shop bought tablecloth edges. Your regular thread in needle and lower looper. Usually cutting blade to the right side as you want it to cut more fabric than in the seam so it rolls under. Now loosen off the tension on the top looper, (I use 2 on mine but this is something you need to finesse with each machine), and tighten up the tension on lower looper, (about 7). Leave needle tension alone.

Now test stitch on your fabric, and finess the upper and lower looper tensions until you get the lower looper thread almost not showing, it should be right up against the needle on the underside with the upper looper thread completely wrapping around top and bottom, pulling the fabric under.a seam like this.
10_16_2011_3_34_10_am.jpg

Test stitch and adjust upper and lower looper until this is happening.

Now, turn stitch length down to close up the stitching, probably 1 or 0.8 if you want a real satin stitch look to the hem.

Because of the stitch density this uses thread so do the finessing first, then turn the length down.

That's it! Now right down the tension settings you used and keep handy for next time.

Sep 24, 2011 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

1 Answer

What setting are the three threads set on for a rolled hem on a singer ultralock l4sh654 and what is the lever by the plate for?


Rolled hemming on any overlocker is usually achived the following way. Right hand needle only.
Blade over to the right usually to cut wider than normal but you can vary this to suit the fabric and stitch width you want.
Thread in this needle and the upper and lower loopers. If you can source any, use woolly overlock thread in the upper looper, this fluffs out when not tensioned and covers the fabric to give the look of solid stitching. Change upper looper tension to about 2 and lower looper tension to about 6 or 7.

The lever by the plate is usually to control the little stitch finger where the stitches are formed, move it backwards and it should move back towards you?? If this happens, then you want it in the retracted (towards you) position for rolled hemming so the stitching is much smaller and the fabric can roll. Normally this stitch finger holds the fabric firm for the loopers to form the stitch over for your normal 3 or 4 thread overlock.

Now test stitch and see how it looks. Tighten the lower looper thread so it lays right beside the needle on the underside. You may need to then tighten or loosen more the upper looper, you want the upper thread to wrap all the way around to the underneath against the lower looper thread and needle.

The cut edge of fabric should roll to underneath inside your seam. Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5 or so to close it right up tight. This uses heaps of thread so I usually test everything else, then close it up at the end to minimise waste.

Hope this makes sense, good luck.

Sep 22, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

How do I create a rolled hem with this machine. I see the stitch width knob, but do I need to remove one of the threads for this?


Making a rolled hem on any overlocker is achieved in the following way:

use right hand needle only and top and bottom loopers. Turn stitch length down so threads are closed up (on mine this is 0.5). Your stitch length dial will be one on the right hand side near the flywheel usually. Loosen off the the top looper tension and tighten up the bottom looper tension (these are the right and 2nd right tension dials on front of the machine). On my Bernette I leave the needle at the usual 5, 2 on the top looper and 6.5 to 7 on the bottom looper thread. Move cutting blade position to the right so that you are trimming the fabric quite a bit wider than your stitch, this makes the fabric "roll" underneath inside the stitching to form the rolled edge or hem.

There is also another step that needs to happen where you change or remove a little stitch finger that sits in the pressure foot or just under it. On the Bernettes, you flick a lever to move this stitch finger back towards the operator so it is out of the stitch forming area. On some machines, it is a case of changing the little stitch finger which is screwed onto the pressure foot with a screwdriver.

I really don't know with your Necchi which it is but have a good look at the pressure foot, and around the blade cutting area and see if you can see a lever or check out the accessory bag and see if there is another stitch finger in there, it would be smaller than the one on the foot now. In effect, this finger sits out and the threads wrap around it to form your normal overlock but for rolled hem you want a much smaller finger in place to make a very little seam.

The other variable which makes a very neat job is to use a thread called "wooly Overlock" in the upper looper only. This thread when pulled under tension is tight looking but when you let it go, it fluffs out. So when seaming on a rolled hem it fills out the stitching and covers the edge of the fabric fully giving a smooth look. You can do it without but wooly thread makes a great job and you'll see it on all Ready to Wear seams usually for this reason.

If I am going to roll hem a fine sheer woven fabric like organza or chiffon I will change the needle to make sure it is nice and sharp and also ensure it is a regular point, not a ball point (I seam lots of knits so have ball points in most of the time on mine) Usually a size 80 is fine.

I hope this gets you going with your overlocker, I usually test stitch quite a bit with the stitch length at the normal 2.5 setting and adjust the looper tensions until I've got the stitch looking good, then turn it down to the very close 0.5, just to not waste a ton of thread.

Sep 09, 2011 | Necchi 6002 Sewing Machine

2 Answers

I am doing some sashes for a wedding and i want to know on my serger 14SH654 ultralock how to do a rolled hem


A rolled hem on any overlocker is formed by using the right hand needle only, and the two loopers to form a narrow three thread seam. You also need to retract the seam width finger as Trial2962 said. This is a little finger that sits on the stitching plate and the loopers form the stitching over it. By retracting it, the looper threads can form a narrow seam and in fact, roll the fabric inside the seam. You need to move the cutting blade as far right as it will go so you are trimming as wide as possible from the needle, turn the tension on the top looper rigth down to 2 so it is very loose and this thread wraps around to the underside. And tighten the lower looper tension to about 7 so it hardly shows and sits right up against the needle thread. Adjust and test until you get the seam looking like this, then turn the stitch length dial (on the right side by flywheel) down to 0.5 to close the seam right up tight. Lastly, if you can source it in the right colour, buy woolly overlock thread and run this through the upper looper only, this thread is fluffy and when not under tension, relaxes and "fills" out so the seam appears like a continuous coverage over the fabric.
9_26_2011_11_26_51_pm.jpg
You will need to practice a few runs and go slowly on corners, a curve is obviously much easier to serge than a right hand cover so if you can, cut the fabric with curved ends, much easier to get a great finish. When you chain off at the end, you need to unravel the tail threads and pull them inside the seam for a few mm with a needle to get a smooth finish, then trim the tail and seal with a drop of Fray Stop.9_26_2011_11_26_51_pm.jpg

Sep 04, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

2 Answers

I am not getting an even rolled hem on a heavier fabric. I am only using 3 cones of Maxi Lock.


You can not do a rolled hem on heavier material. It is only for thin cloth. You have to do a 3 thread narrow edge on heavier cloth.

Aug 02, 2011 | Baby Lock Imagine

1 Answer

I am trying to do a rolled hem using a singer ultralock 14sh654. Do I disengage the knife? The stitches are uneven and some are quite loose no matter how much I adjust the tension. I am positive I...


no, you need the blade in place and cutting to give an even cut fabric edge. Set up for a three thread using the right hand needle, take out the left hand needle. move blade over to the right so it is cutting wide. Most overlockers there is also a thread finger you need to change on the foot, or a little lever you flick to move this finger forward into the stitching area. Check this on your manual as each make is a bit different.
If you can source it, put wooly nylon thread into the upper looper (knot it onto existing thread and just chain it through, the knot should go through the looper eye fine). Now turn the tension on top looper down so it is looser and tighten up tension on bottom looper, so needle 5, top looper 2 and bottom looper about 7.

Now test serge, the fabric cut edge should be wider than the overlocking seam so the fabric rolls under inside the stitching. Adjust the two looper threads so that this is happening, you want the bottom looper thread to nest right up against the needle stitch and the top looper thread to wrap all the way around too.

Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5, to close the stitching right up. On some fabrics you'll need to adjust the differential feed too if the fabric is "waving" a bit.

Uneven stitches or sometimes loose when serging could indicate that one of the tension devices is faulting, so if this machine is not new and its doing this, it could need a service. Can you get a regular smooth three or 4 thread seam out if it???

It is always good to just recheck the threading path, make sure the thread aerial is up and that a thread hasn't got caught back on the thread stand somewhere if you're getting something wonky happening, threads stream off overlocker cones through the machine so anything wrong in the thread path will throw off the stitching.

Jun 25, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

Need settings for Simplicity easyLock SL370 rolled hem. Machine belongs to a friend who recently moved and the instruction manual has gone missing. Thank you!


narrow 3thread seam, so remove left needle. loosen top looper tension to 3 or 2, tighten bottom looper tension to 7 or 8. thread top looper with woolly overlock thread and reduce stitch length. there is also a thread finger u need to flick back on throat or needle plate usually to make rolled hem. also move blade to right to trim less fabric as you want the fabtic to roll under inside the seam.

Apr 28, 2011 | Simplicity SL370 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

What is the settings for rolled hem using your overlocker


You haven't specified your overlocker make and model but some parts of the set up will be the same; you still need to consult your machine manual to find out the changes needed to the foot. Bernettes have a little switch near the blade that you flick to change how the stitch forms so it rolls.

You need a 3 thread overlock with the right hand needle (I'm assuming you have a 4 thread lock) turn the stitch length down to 0.5 so it is very closed up. And there is usually a little thread finger on the foot that needs to be changed or a switch you flick to move it back.

Then lower the tension down on the upper looper so this thread goes over the edge to the underside and tighten up the lower looper dial so this thread lies against the needle stitch.

Move the blade to the right so the fabric is cut wider than the seam that the threads are forming so the cut edge rolls underneath and is encased in the threads.

It is best to use wooly overlock thread on at least the top looper so this "fills" in the rolled edge.

If you visit you-tube and search using "Rolled Hem" or Nancy Zieman you should find some helpful videos too.

Apr 25, 2011 | Sewing Machines

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