Question about Whirlpool Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dryer not heating up
did you un hook 1 side of the wire from each componted you were checking to prevent getting a false reading and did you check the thermal limiter on the heater housing the tiny disc with two wires on it and do you have the tech sheet for the dryer
Posted on Jan 26, 2008
SOURCE: dryer will not heat
Model number needed to look up fuse location or simply use Repairclinic.com to look up the fuse location yourself. These newer models have not been out long enough for a retired old dude like me to come across one. But I bet I could repair it.Since yours is this new you might want to get factory service to take a gander at it before you attempt a DIY to prevent voiding any warranty you may have left.
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Posted on Jan 19, 2009
It may not be the heating element causing your problem. There are other components that can fail that will cause the same symptoms. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
If you have any questions, please let me know. Please inlcude your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) when asking questions. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Sep 07, 2009
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