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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
first make sure that there is not ice clogging the auger. check that connection to the auger motor is secure. If it appears to be fine you will need a volt meter for the following steps. If you are not comfortable using this equipment or do not want to buy one call a repairman. If you choose to continue remove the leads from the auger motor. Configure the meter to read ohms and place the leads across the motor connections. The meter should read some resistance if not the motor is either shorted or a lead has burned completely due to a short. If the motor is fine configure the meter to read volts. Look on the motor and determine if it is AC or DC and configure the meter for this. Connect the voltmeter leads to the motor feed wires and press the ice despense button. If no voltage is observed check the switch for continuity. Replace any faulty parts. If this sounds foreign to you call a repairman.
Posted on Mar 27, 2008
First take the hopper out and let it de-ice completely making sure that it is dry before re-installing it. Make sure that the auger moves when re installed with no ice in it.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
SOURCE: Ardis Ice Auger
I pick up a power head from the junk yard this past weekend. The unit was made by Feldmann Mfg. and engineering. I believe this is the same company that manufactures Jiffy ice augers. I paid $3 for it. It looks like it is from the 50's or 60's. It was complete except for the auger. The motor was froze from sitting, but after disasembling, cleaning, cutting new gasket, freeing the rings and numerous other problems I got it running. I found augers in the Northern hydraulics catalog in sizes from 3" to 12". They are for earth and the 8" was $139.99. You would need to contact them for the shaft size to see if it will fit in the power head you have.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
SOURCE: GE PS123 MGNA CC Ice Auger
I just finished replacing the ice auger in my GE HSS25GFPA side-by-side and offer some suggestions/hints.
The auger (WR17X11705) was available locally (Appliance Parts Co., $28.97). This fits many other refrigerators. The replacement took a little under 2 hours. I estimate these hints may cut the time by one-half.
There are only 4 screws in the entire ice drawer assembly. It possibly was not necessary to remove the control rod. The other 3 screws hold the front cover. There are also 2 tabs holding the top of the cover.
The most difficult part of the repair was removal of the plastic assembly housing the crusher blades and the front bearing of the auger. This is held in place by only 2 large square tabs on the sides. There is enough space to get ONE side to release BUT to get both released required careful prying with thin-bladed screwdrivers (and prayer). These "tabs" don't push in, rather the drawer flexes out. Once released, the unit slides up and angles to allow removal of the auger/crusher. Re-assembly could not be easier. Stainless sheet metal screws would probably work if you do break something.
Remove the clear inside cover of the crusher assembly and the "C" clip on the threaded end of the auger shaft to separate the auger from the crusher.
And now for my PRIMARY reason for sharing my experience - the %#$@ plastic nut/bearing is a LEFT-HAND THREAD. I only realized this when trying to bend my make-shift split screwdrive back and the SOB loosened right up!
Carefully note the locations and orientations of the blades and spacers as you move them from the old to the new auger.
Posted on May 01, 2009
If you cant manually turn your auger motor, it may be bad. Does it dispense solid ice or no ice at all? Another thing may be your control panel. That could be bad too, it's the one sending juice to both your solenoid and auger motor.
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
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