I have a Diamond Series WS#### Mitsubishi 65" tv (about 8 yrs old). There is a red ghost image across the screen. Is this a convergence circuit problem and if so, what kind of cost are we talking...
If it's a little bit of ghosting, you can adjust the convergence just in the convergence menu. If it's very serious...
How to fix your convergence issue.
To fix a convergence issue, you must understand what you're fixing when your T.V.s picture caves in on itself. Some say it
looks like a 3D image, some say it looks bowed, but what ever you call it, you have a problem that isn't going to fix
Okay, what happened?
Your rear projection T.V. operates very similar to an older style glass screen CRT/Direct View television. Pretend if you
take 3 of those old glass screen T.V.s gave them all their own color being green, blue, and red, and put them in a box with
a mirror to reflect onto a screen. That's basically what's happening in your T.V. Your issue is that the three CRTs in your
T.V. aren't lining up properly due to a malfuntion in your T.V.
If you're uncomfortable getting your hands dirty, I understand. Call a T.V. repair technician, it'll cost you between 260-
400 dollars depending on the model of T.V. you have.
Before you begin, you must realize that this is not a rookie fix and it does require the skill of soldering.
Tools you will need.
1: Phillips screwdriver/drill
2: Permenant marker
3. Soldering Iron
4: Solder Wick
5: Heat Sink compound/grease
6: Multi Meter (Optional)
1: (2) Stk392-110s
2: High Wattage Resistors (maybe)
You can find these parts on E-Bay for reasonable prices.
Plug in your T.V. Look at your problem. Turn the T.V. off. Unplug your T.V.
Mark all the connections you have going to your T.V. Ie. Xbox, Cable wires using a marker, or write it on a piece of paper.
Unscrew the back of the T.V. Get the cover off.
Look for the deflection board. Usually it has a flyback on it (the unit sticking out of the board with a big red anode
(wire) that goes into a splitter located higher on the TV usually.) What you're looking for is the part of the board with 2
identical silver heat sinks that hold 2 big ICs. The STKs usually have 2 screws on each of them holding them to the heat
Now you'll need to get the old STKS out of the board. To do this, you usually need to remove the board from the chassis.
Remove all the connectors marking where each of them went (the connector and ports). As far as the flyback, you may have to
disconnect the main wire from the voltage splitter. Take the rubber cap off and push and turn like you're opening a bottle
of asperin. It should pop out. As far as the thin wire is concerned you usually can give this one slack by removing it from
the little twist clips it's connected to.
A: You have the deflection board removed. Find the STKS. Unscrew the STK screws. Desolder the STKs from the circuit board.
This is a good time to see if any resistors look burnt. If they are you will need to figure out the values and replace
them. Be carful and take your time desoldering these.
B: Put heat sink grease on the metal part of your new parts and fit them where the old STKs went. This may take a minute to
line up all the pins.
C: Screw the STKS to the heat sink and then resolder them to the board.
Put the board back into the T.V.
Reconnect all the wires you marked earlier. Replace the anode (red wire) to the voltage divider by just pushing it in and
making sure its not going to come out just by slightly tugging on it. If your set had 4 black clips on it, clip those back
onto the board as well.
Double check your connectors. Don't forget to put any back in and make sure they're all in properly.
With the back off, hook up your cable box. Plug the T.V. in. Turn on the T.V. with the remote. Be prepared to unplug the
T.V. in case you did something wrong. If it's running properly for 20 seconds, go look at the picture.
Should be all straightened out.
Step 9: Screw the back on again and reconnect all of your inputs.
Jul 28, 2011 |
Mitsubishi WS-55511 55" Rear Projection...