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The machine Heat Seal Laminator H300 is making a grinding noise when it is turned on, however it is still lamaniting ok. It seems like the rollers might be sticky or something is causing them to drag.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

bowdo
  • 78 Answers

SOURCE: Gear making a grinding noise

Not too good news I'm afraid. It sound like the fuser gear has failed. Generally the fuser unit (hot section or hot rollers in the back) need to be replaced. Usually when the gear has worn or failed the fuser rollers are also worn and need to be replaced. The gear can be replaced seperately but is a very risky operation and usually results in parts in the fuser unit falling appart due to age and wear, so it is best done as a unit. If possible do not run the machine as it can cause damage to gears around the fuser unit. The best option is to find out how much a fuser unit and labour to fit would be at your local service centre.

Posted on Jan 30, 2008

zeusfaber
  • 247 Answers

SOURCE: A slight burning smell from the fuser region ...

Although a faulty thermistor could be to blame for the fuser running above target temperature, the usual explanation for a slight burning smell is a bit of paper debris stuck inside the fuser, slowly scorching away to nothing.

A.

Posted on Mar 31, 2008

checkitright
  • 1362 Answers

SOURCE: The 4100 Printers in my

Seems like the drum drive gear is bad, and is not meshing w/the drum causing it to strip the drum gear.

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Loud grinding noise when paper is feeding through machine

Mine was indeed a gear problem. Took off the top cover and poked around. Found two areas that may have caused the grinding.
1. The lower roller shaft had slid to the left out of it's groove. By removing the handset cradle (3 release tabs are accessed underneath the toner hatch.) I could loosen the "gear box" (a black contraption with all the gears inside) and then snug the bottom roller into proper position.
2. I removed the "gear box" to look around. Don't know if I dislodged one of the gears while doing so, but noticed one was dislodged ;-)
This required opening up the gear box by removing 2 screws and lifting off the motor. Then i could get at a gear that had come loose from a claw sort of piece. Note: the teeth of the loose gear needed to be on the motor side when sliding it back into the claw thingy. It seems to use a metal clip for friction control and perhaps proper spacing.

I noticed "some" wearing of gears, but doubt this is an issue. This machine has been used VERY hard for years and now, just by re-aligning things, it works once again.

My googling barely found any mention of troubleshooting this machine, so I shudder to think what finding parts would be like.




Posted on Jan 21, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Grinding Noise when Washer Attempts to Spin

It is probably the same problem because it is trying to drain during the spin cycle. My machine sounded as though a chain wis clanking, the solution was removing a coin caught in the drain pump. Access the pump from the bottom of the machine. 4 screws hold the mounting bracket on undo those, the electrical connection and two hose to the pump. Undo three screws holding impeller to motor and coin can fall out. Examine for damage if it is not too tore up, put back together. Keep in mind that when you unclamp the hoses that water will come out.

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

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1 Answer

Why doesn't our laminator always roll?


It sounds like the control panel switch membrane( under the panel buttons) needs to be replaced. The bad sound may be your heat roller bearings failing. They dry out and start squealing. They also can cause your machine too slow down or stop. There are 2 bearings on either side of the laminator, 4 total.

Sep 08, 2015 | Gbc Heat Seal Ultima 65 Laminator 1710740

1 Answer

My GBC ultima 65 laminator is making loud noises. How do i fix this?


You probably have 1 or more heat roller bearings seizing up. This is a common problem. There are 2 on the left and 2 on the right. I would recommend changing both of the bearings on the side that is noisy. They can eventually stop turning and then your laminator will probably stop also.

Aug 10, 2015 | Gbc Office Equipment & Supplies

1 Answer

Laminate did not come out it just went back inside on roller


warm the machine back up, get the glue sticky again, then work it off, either by going in forward or reverse, whichever works best for the given situation. Don't use anything sharp as the rollers damage easily....very expensive

Sep 09, 2014 | Gbc Heat Seal Ultima 65 Laminator 1710740

1 Answer

Laminator won't heat up


This is just rediculous. Where's the friggin answer?
Mine won't even come on. JUNK!

Jan 28, 2014 | Gbc HeatSeal Ultima 65 Laminating System

2 Answers

A laminate and paper jam in a Gbc HeatSeal H425 Laminator


You need to loose the vertical plastic wall on the left side, and pull it up and to the left, only then you would be able to take pink rollers and metal piece away. Step by step do this (BTW, make pictures of each step if you think you will not be able to assemble it back) :

Download parts scheme here (if link is broken I can send you; write to ororeivis [at] g mail com):
http://www.gbcconnect.com/assets/docs/H425_PARTS_POUCH_LAMINATOR.pdf

Take the lid (3) off and hang it on the corner.
Next goes off (42) part.
Now focus on the left side. Take to the side part (30) with 7mm wrench. Then both parts (14) from both sides [4 in total]. Then both parts (2). Then take out screws that are holding this vertical plastic wall place. There is two screws from the outside of laminator in the bottom!
Then black roller (36) you lift up and take out by sliding to the side. Then two long black metal pieces.
Now you should be able to pull up and move to the left that vertical plastic wall on the left side of laminator. If not, try loosing some screws that are in this wall.
Be careful taking melted jammed stuff away from heating panel. Do not over-scratch it, as it is very sensitive.

floating cowboy

Jun 26, 2012 | Gbc HeatSeal H425 Laminator

1 Answer

Everything works fine, starts fine etc..however after running for just a few minutes it starts making a very load grinding noise and continues until the machine is finished drying...just can't take it...


Hi bpur04...
You have either a bad drum felt seal and or noisy or faulty drum rollers.
You will need to disassemble the drum assembly to replace your felt seal and your drum rollers.
I would recommend that you remove and lubricate the drum rollers.
And also clean the shafts of the rollers as they will collect hair,dust,etc and cause problems and then lubricate the shafts and rollers with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting dry and making a squeeling noise, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise.
You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
I am also going to include a link for you to download a user manual for FREE.
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

http://www.whirlpoolappliances.ca/assets/svXmW8P-TLAIvzVs3DbbPjHfLrBQ74kI.pdf

Sep 17, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity...

2 Answers

My ultima 65 laminator is not sealing well on the left side. I've tried adjusting the upper tension which helps temporarily, but it reloosens after just a few minutes of use.


By "upper tension" do you mean the hex screw located inside the left panel? If you tighten this until there is no space between the heat rollers it should eleminate the problem. If it is continues to loosen, back the screw out, apply a small amount of locktight to the threads before replacing the screw.You can find locktight at any hardware store usually in the Paint section near the glues. Hope this helps. Good luck

Feb 16, 2011 | Gbc HeatSeal Ultima 65 Laminating System

1 Answer

Can you tell me how to thread a Graphic III laminator?


5-2 THREADING the LAMINATOR
1. Remove the supply roll mandrels and the feed tray. The supply roll mandrels are now ready to accept
loading of the film rolls, wound with the polyester (shiny) side out. When viewed from the front of the
machine, the core grippers on both the top and bottom supply roll mandrels should point toward the
heat shoes (and toward each other). The tension control knobs should be positioned on the right. Notice the
knobs are labeled "Top Right" and "Bottom Right". If you have rolls of film on which the material is wound
in the opposite direction (adhesive or dull side out) exchange the top and bottom supply roll mandrels so
the core gripper positions are reversed.
2. Slide a roll of film onto the top supply roll mandrel, turning the roll slightly to slide the gripper inside the
core. Center the roll. Make sure the dull side of the film is facing up and the shiny side is facing the
heat shoes during the threading. Scored marks on the supply roll mandrels provide a guide for proper
alignment of the two rolls of film to each other.
NOTE: The pointed metal pieces protruding from the body of the supply roll mandrels grip the cardboard core of the film supply roll to prevent slippage. When placing a roll of film on the mandrel, twist the film supply roll to
accommodate easier film loading.
3. With the roll aligned with the scored line on the right side of the mandrel, place it in the top bracket.
Place the left side of the shaft in its slot first then place the right side of the shaft in its slot, turning it as
needed. FOLLOW THE RECOMMENDED LOADING PROCEDURES CAREFULLY WHEN THREADING
FILM IN THE LAMINATOR. ACCURATE ALIGNMENT OF ROLLS WILL MINIMIZE WASTE AND HELP KEEP
THE LAMINATOR CLEAN.
4. While the machine is still cold, review the threading diagram. With the bottom roll of film centered on
the mandrel and the shiny side facing down, run the film under the bottom idler bar and pull towards
you.
5. Load and thread the top roll of film in the same manner as the bottom roll. Refer to the threading diagram. The
film should run under the silver stabilizer bar and over the front of the top heat shoe. Remember, the shiny
side of the film must always go against the shoe. The dull (adhesive) side must face away from the shoe.
Make sure the two rolls are aligned with each other before going to the next step.
6. Turn machine on and heat to the desired temperature.
7. With both rolls threaded and installed in their respective brackets, unwind enough film from the top roll
to reach the bottom of the bottom heat shoe. Next, unwind enough film from the bottom roll to reach the
top of the top heat shoe.
8. Now drape the film from the bottom roll against the film from the top roll on the top shoe. If the laminator is
hot, the exposed adhesive on the top web will hold the bottom web and make it easy to stick the two rolls
together. If you are threading the machine while it is cold, use tape to stick the bottom web against the top
web.
9. Tip the safety shield down into the laminating position. With the film draped over the two heat shoes, push
one edge of the threading card between the heat shoes so that the film is firmly positioned against the
laminating rollers. If a threading card is not available, any piece of card stock or poster board will work.
10. Make sure there is still enough slack in the web. Turn the drive switch to FORWARD, permitting the film and
feed board to pass through both sets of rubber rollers. Carefully monitor initial threading to be sure the web
reaches and passes through the pull (back) rollers. When the threading card has cleared the back of the
machine, move the drive switch to the center position (off). Whenever you want to remove the film and/or
laminated material from the back of the machine, use the zippy cutting tool provided with the laminator.
11. Slide the feed tray into position.
12. If the machine has the slitter option, make sure the slitters are disengaged (blades in the raise
position) and moved all the way to either side of the machine.
CAUTION: The laminator is designed to be run with the operator directly facing the
control panel and feed tray, not at an angle or from the side of the machine. For
operator safety, the safety shield must be in position over the upper heat shoe
when the machine is ON, or when the drive switch is in the forward position.

Dec 21, 2010 | Office Equipment & Supplies

1 Answer

I have an office roll laminator GMP 650HRP. I


the increasing and lowering heat on the rollers and increasing and lowering pressure on the pressure stick depend on the thickness of the laminating pouch 120 mic need less heat then the 240 mic.

Mar 21, 2010 | Office Equipment & Supplies

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