Question about Krups KM7000

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I want to change the water heater in a Krups KM 7000. I have the three phillips-head screws and the one triangle head screw out, but I'm not sure how to open it up from there.

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You will have to remove all the screws out.But some screws are triangle shaped and for that you will require special tool to loosen that screws.Once the screws are removed.The top cover will get easily lifted.Once you remove all of the screws from the underside of the unit, the hard plastic bottom slid right out. Note that there are more "hidden" screws under the little rubber feet.You'll have to pop the rubber plugs out of their sockets to reveal about 5-6 more screws.The internals of the KM7000 seem pretty basic. There's a length of flexible orange tubing that connects the water reservoir to the heating coil (and the hot plate!), then upwards to the brew-pot. A tiny circuit board connects the LCD display to the rest of the unit. here's how the machine brews coffee. Water from the reservoir flows through the orange tubing into the heating ring, connected to the hot-plate with a little thermal adhesive. From there, the heating element heats the water which forces it upwards through the rest of the orange tubing and into the brew-pot. To see the fig of orange on the link below:--- --------- For more detailed help click this link directly:--- ---------------- Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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The disassembly is a bit tricky as there are some screws with oval heads that require special tooling.
The web site below has tons of useful information on how to do it and where to find the special tool for the oval-head screws.
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1. Go to this link to view the parts diagram.
2. Carefully peel part #14 using putty knife.
3. Remove 3 screws part #43
4. Carefully remove part # 4. Note, there are fragile plastic arms that snap into place to hold the top of part #4 in place. I used a flat jeweler's screwdriver to apply pressure to the arms so they did not snap off.
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Remove the top panel, the control panel, the toe panel, and the front panel to replace the door gasket. Disconnect power to the washer before servicing to avoid electric shock.

Remove the top panel by removing the top cover and the three 7-mm hex-head screws that attach the rear of the top panel to the cabinet. Remove the top cover by removing the three Phillips-head screws that hold it in place then insert a putty knife blade or similar tool along the top seam between the cover and the control panel. Lightly tap the cover off rearward; slide the top panel rearward then lift it off the cabinet.

Pull the dispenser drawer out until it stops; push down the locking tab, and then pull the dispenser drawer all the way out. Once the drawer is out, remove the Phillips-head screw from the recess of the drawer opening.

Remove the four Phillips-head screws that attach the control panel to the control panel cover. Release the tab on the right side of the control panel from the bracket inside the cabinet.

Lift the top edge of the control panel to release the three tabs that hold its top in place. Push the control panel towards the left, then release the side tab.

Label the wires and mark the connectors matching the wires before disconnecting the wires from the control panel.

Remove the three Phillips-head screws at the bottom of the toe panel holding it to the cabinet, then pull the toe panel down and off the cabinet.

Open the washer door, then remove the three Phillips-head screws holding the door switch and lock assembly to the front panel.

The door gasket is held to the lip of the door opening by a wire and a spring hidden in the fold of gasket. Grasp the wire at the spring location using a pair of needle-nose pliers and stretch the spring to clear the gasket, and then remove the wire and spring assembly. Peel off the door gasket from the lip of the door opening into the drum.

Remove the four Phillips-head screws that secure the front panel on its four corners to the cabinet. Lift up the front panel then remove it from the two hooks and all the way off the cabinet.

Pull down the top of the gasket, and then remove the nozzle from the gasket. Remove the gasket from the water inlet pipe, and then loosen the 7-mm bolt that tightens the wire holding the gasket to the outer tub lip. Take note of the position of the gasket, and then remove it and the wire from the lip of the outer tub.

Install the new gasket into the lip of the outer tub aligning the notch in the gasket with the arrow located on the top of the lip of the outer tub, and then secure it with the wire and the bolt. Do not over tighten the wire with the bolt. Allow a gap of about 1.25 inches between the ends of the wire. Over tightening the wire may tear the gasket.

Insert the nozzle into the gasket ensuring that the washer is placed on the outside and that the nozzle is aligned with the dent on the inside of the gasket. Insert the water inlet pipe into the gasket, and then put the gasket inside the drum.

Reinstall the front panel back into position on the hooks then secure it to the cabinet with the four Phillips-head screws.

Slide the toe panel up into the cabinet then secure it with the three Phillips-head screws.

Reconnect the wires to the control panel. Snap the control panel back into the cabinet, and then secure it with the screw at the recess of the drawer opening.

Slide the top panel back in place then secure its rear with the three 7mm hex-head screws to the cabinet. Reinstall the top cover and secure it the three Phillips-head screws.

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Krups KM7000 grinds but won't brew, warming plate no heat. Is this repairable, (perhaps a fuse?) or is it junk. Bought the machine in March 2008

Mine had the same problem ... all the lights are on, but no heating on the plate, and no dripping of water.

After a weekend on the workbench, I've mastered this machine. The KM7000 has 2 x MicroTemp G4 thermal cutoff (TCO) fuses which interrupt the Live line, for overheat protection. Mine didn't overheat per se, but the TCO blew anyway. Not reset-able ... need to be replaced with a soldering iron. I'll be happy to advise you to fix this, or fix it for you. Write me at

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1 Answer

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Underneath. Don't see original post here, but to replace a pump (actually, just the pump motor) on an LG front load washer: Drain water out of small hose inside recess and remove access door cover (at lower left of machine). Remove one phillips head screw and use a plastic putty knife or similar tool to push in on left or right side of recess to remove the plastic recess cup. Now remove the two other phillips head screws visible. Tilt machine back and access pump Assembly from under machine. There is a tab that you will have to work loose. Disconnect electrical wires from pump at disconnect plug. You probably want to remove the hoses going to and away from the pump (squeeze clamps). Pump motor is easy to change out now with three more phillips head screws.

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