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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same issue recently and here's what I found out (through a LOT of research) and the solution (yes, there is one!):
As described by many, when you can't get both the remote and the wireless pad to work together it means your garage door opener can accept both rolling code and billing code technology, BUT not at the same time. When you reset all codes (normally by pressing a button on the opener for a period of time e.g. 6 seconds or more), you erase all codes and remote "pairings". Then when you follow the manufacturer's procedure to pair again (which could be the wireless key pad first OR the remote first), the first pairing determines the technology for all subsequent pairings. Example: if your first pairing/programming was with the wireless keypad, and if it was rolling code technology (normally the case for newer models), then the garage opener will only recognize and accept rolling code for subsequent pairings. If your remote(s) are older (billion code technology) then the opener won't even recognize the signal (e.g. led won't blink when trying to pair/program).
And vice versa if you start with your remote after erasing all programming (then your keyless pad won't work).
But here is a potential workaround! For newer wireless keypads (e.g. clicker from chamberlain), you have an option to select the type of opener you are using as you do the initial password set up (normally indicated by a number e.g. 1 for models built after 1995, 2 for models built between 1997 and 2004, etc). Each choice is associated with a technology in the background (e.g. either rolling code or billion code). If you are programming your wireless keypad first after erasing all codes / programming, if you chose the "recommended" option for garage opener, chances are it will be rolling code and that means you won't be able to program your older remotes (billion code) after that. So how can you chose the option that will match your remote???
Here's what you do: start by pairing / programming your older remote first after erasing all codes / programs. That sets the technology (e.g. billion code). Then, go ahead and program your wireless keypad, but you may have to go through the process several times by trying the different options until you find one that works!
For me, I had to try 4 options before making it work. Options 1 through 3 (mind you, options #2 was the exact match for my garage door opener model but it would cause the problem discussed here e.g. wireless keypad would work but not the remotes) would not even be recognized by the opener in this procedure (LED would not blink), but it did work once I hit option 4.
I hope this will help you with your problem. Let me know if it's not clear. Cheers!
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
SOURCE: Sears garage door opener
I just found the solution for my 'ancient' Sears garage door opener, model # 139.655000, and I figured I'd share it.
There's a separate radio module, wired to the main opener. This module is small, has a short wire/antenna, and plugs directly into an outlet.
There's a manual open/close button on this module (I didn't realize this until I got up on a ladder). This button is also a removable cover; underneath it is a "smart actuate" button -- this is your learn button.
What I did was: unplug the radio module. Pry off the cover. Plug the radio module back in. Hold down the button on the remote. Press the "smart actuate" button. This programmed my remote successfully!
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
To answer your question the opener is in vacation mode. Press and hold for 3 seconds the button on your wall control with the lock icon. The green light will stop flashing and you will be back in business.
Posted on Dec 08, 2009
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