If you can't locate them, I could walk you through it. It would take a complete description of your current system and what you hope to achieve, if anything. High quality pics of all amp connections and controls followed by a phone call. Having done several thousand installs, I have pretty much seen everything, but with 6 channels and internal x-overs it gets a little complicated, but definitely do-able. Let me know Regards, Paul
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I don't know the answer but I suggest obtaining and reading the user manuals before your purchase will give you that information.
It will then be important to ask the supplier the answer and then the responsibility will be theirs.
If the amplifier provides either a 3:1 or 5:1 output there will be provision for a subwoofer - but what type of subwoofer (active or passive) will be hidden in the specs and if you already have a subwoofer, in the specs of that.
When buying a new amp and preamp the last thing you want is mismatch or overload conditions that will either produce a less than good sound or perhaps stressing the amp.
As a matter of diverse interest, in the old days before subwoofers had been invented the hifi enthusiasts seeking the perfect sound developed the three rack amplifier for domestic use. This type of amp had been used in cinemas for a long time and basically consisted of three amplifiers each built to handle a different frequency spectrum - one amp would drive the tweeters, another the midrange and the third would drive the bass units or woofers.
Another thing hifi buffs did was to introduce a ghost speaker driven by a mono amp that derived an input across the left and right channels.
My opinion is the best sound still comes from a quality 10 or 20 watt tube amp into quality low power handling speakers with cabinets as big as a sideboard. 300Mw is the average power needed for a good listening experience in the average lounge or bedroom.
Look into the TV's audio controls. If it was my setup, I'd NOT send audio through the TV to the hifi, nor video through the hifi to the TV. Additional hops and interconnects cause problems even though they're theoretically transparent.
I know this is an old post but just ran into the same problem with my brother in laws Pioneer Radio. Well, it turns out that the head unit has to be OFF before you try to change the subwoofer setting. THen press and use the Multi-Control knob to select SubControl and change this to REAR SP: FULL (this gives you full range sound) or REAR SP:SUB W (this is for only low, subwoofer frequencies). His radio was set to sub, which is dumb because it was installed with a 4 channel amp and 4 full range speakers. Not sure why it was setup like this in the first place but oh well...
Hi dougal, The power cable size depends on how many watts the amp is rated at (realistic) RMS with all channels driven at 20 to 20K. Buy the largest cable you can afford as you never know when you may add another amp, Though with 6 channels it should handle almost any reasonable sound system configuration, such as, front, rear fill and the sub/s. 400 watts and less will do fine on 8 gauge wire. 500 watts or more should be using 4 gauge, with a distribution block. The ground should be the same size as the power wire, and solidly connected to BARE metal, keep it as short as practical. Use good quality terminal connectors throughout.
The (HI) inputs simply means, using the speaker output from the head unit, as opposed to the RCA connectors.When purchasing the RCA cables don't be fooled by all the fancy high dollar one's, unless cosmetics are important to you. $5.00 cables will sound just as good as the $25.00 ones. ( The marketing dept. hates that truth. )
You can bridge any two channels as long as they are the matching right and left pair. Look at the amp, usually the rears are the most powerful and have a low frequency crossover. The woofer impedance and whether it is single or dual voice coil will determine the speaker wiring.
If the woofer is a single voice coil, 4 ohms... The positive terminal on the speaker goes to left positive, on the amps left channel terminal. The negative speaker terminal goes to the right channel negative on the amp.
If the woofer has two 4 Ohm voice coils, Parallel the terminals on the speaker. Pos. to Pos. and Neg. to Neg. and then wire as explained above it will present a 2 Ohm load to the amplifier, any good amp can handle that. If in doubt check the specs. I hope i was of some help. Regards, S.
On your amp, there should be a switch (on the side probably) that has "LP", "HP", and "FULL" or "OFF". This is a switch for the low pass/high pass filter. Switch it to "LP" as this will allow only low frequencies to go to your subs, what you want. If you don't have that switch, go to an audio store or online audio supplier and get either a low pass filter, band pass filter, or a cross-over, and follow the wiring diagram that comes with it to filter out the high frequencies before they get to your subs.
I can't find any documentation for your amp; it was made when Jensen was owned by Recoton, and they're no longer in business. With any 4-channel amp, you can't bridge all four channels into a single channel. What you can do, if you're connecting it to a single sub, is to bridge two of the channels into one channel and leave the other two channels unused.
It doesn't usually matter which two channels you pick, but some 4-channel amps designate channels 3 and 4 (or rear channels) for the subwoofer. Whichever ones you use should have a "LPF" or "LP" crossover setting available.
where can i find p500d install manual
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