There should be a blade tensioning adjustment on the back of the upper wheel. You need to loosen this until the blade is loose, then open both front covers and possibly remove the guard, then install new blade and retension.
Then adjust the tracking and guides as follows:
Before tuning it up, loosen the guides and wheels away and square the
table to the tensioned blade. Then follow these steps in order:
- First, adjust the upper wheel so the blade is tracking
at the center or just to the front of center of the wheel tire. (You
can see this with the cover removed, and adjust it with the nut/wing
nut in the back).
- Now, make sure the blade guides are adjusted so they
don't deflect the blade to either side (when looked at from the front),
so they contact the blade just behind the gullet of the teeth, but not
against the hooked teeth themselves, and are just tight enough to allow
the blade to run freely (including the weld). (If your guides are worn
and out of flat, you may wish to dress them on a sander before
adjusting them against the blade.) Adjust the guides both above and
below the table. At this point, ensure that the guide bar moves up and
down easily and locks into position without torqueing the guides
against the blade.
- Finally, adjust the bearings behind the blade, so they
just kiss it, and turn freely when you revolve the bandsaw wheel. They
will support the back of the blade when pressure is applied against it
during a cut, and help immensely to keep the blade tracking straight.
At this point, check the cut by trying to follow a straght line
penciled on a board. Some blades will naturally tend to veer slightly
on a diagonal, depending on how they are sharpened, and you may have to
adjust your fence to compensate for this "drift".
But if you follow the steps outlined above, and have a good sharp blade to begin with, you should be able to split a line.
I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
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