Question about Whirlpool WTW5560SQ Top Load Washer

4 Answers

Top load washer 5 years old with lots of heavy use: wash phase completed but now won't drain or spin, makes loud rattle noise. Belt a bit burned but not broken. What's going on here?

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  • corr846 Sep 13, 2010

    First, thanks for your time. I don't know where the Whirlpool name and model came from, I must have done something wrong, but I have an Alliance Model number LWT52NW-1100, and it's the one with the problem as I described it.


    Thanks

  • corr846 Sep 13, 2010

    Alliance, model number LWT 52NW-1100 - top load washer 5 years old with lots of heavy use: wash phase completed but now won't drain or spin, makes loud rattle noise. Belt a bit burned but not broken. What's going on here?

  • corr846 Sep 13, 2010

    No, the model number is not correct. I don't know where that came from or why it's there. My machine is an Alliance LWT52NW-1100 with the problem as described above.
    Thanks

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  • Contributor
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Don't try to remove the console with a putty knife or flat screwdriver or you'll snap off the plastic feet. There are a couple of long phillips screws on each end of the base of the console at the back. Undo these almost all the way and you can slide the console forward and tip it back.

Posted on Jun 27, 2013

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  • Master
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If belt is got burned then it can be the problem.But if belt got burned out then it can be motor getting overheated causing the belt to get burned out. The belt is a cloth belt which slips in the spin mode and acts like a clutch. Here is some possible reasons for why the belt might burn off.
1.Rusty motor pulley. Residue from burning belt must be cleaned off thoroughly from the motor pulley.
2.Spring adjustment-must allow the belt to slip and act as clutch when getting up to spin speed.
3.Something stuck in the pump.
4.Drain hose must be clear and allowing the water to clear machine properly. The rubber back-flow flapper in the drain is giving some problems. Some say to dispose of it.
5.Do not try to pump water higher than five feet.
6.Water siphoning from the washer and washer agitating dry.
7.Warped and wobbling transmission pulleys. 
8.Tight center bearing. Replace along with belt and water seal kit. Something between the tubs causing drag on the wash basket. This would also cause slow draining problems that could burn the belt.
9.These washers are known for the transmissions locking up in agitation and cooking belt...turning transmission pulley will free it again (like installing belt) and it will work for a couple loads....look at the transmission carefully.
The noise can be the cause of blocked drain pump and faulty motor.This all has to be checked and faulty part has to be replaced.

You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation

Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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  • Whirlpool Master
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If your model number of wtw5560sq is correct,your machine does not have a belt.
It has a direct drive coupling that is broken and must be replaced for agitate and spin functions.
Unplig the machine,use a putty knife under the right and left sides of the control console to release the top panel. Fold the panel to the rear of the washer.
Remove the 2 "S" spring clips that hold the rear panel to the front cabinet.
Unpluge lid switch.Remove the complete cabinet.
Remove the screws and clips that hold the motor in place.Remove the clips from the water pump attached to the front of the motor.
Remove the motor wires.
The 3 piece drive coupling on the motor shaft must be replaced.
When the plastic pieces are attached you must use a hammer and a socket to carefully drive the plastic pieces onto the motor shaft and the transmission shaft so that the front of the coupling is flush with the front of the shaft.
Reinstall the motor,wires,pump and cabinet.

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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  • Whirlpool Master
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There's no belt on this washer. It is a direct drive model that uses a drive coupling. The pump mounts on the opposite side of the tranny. The motor goes one direction for wash and goes the other direction for spin and pump out. You have a broken drive coupling.
How hard is it to replace? Not too bad. Flip the controls up and pop the case off. Then you can access the innards. Your washer is fairly new. I have a video which shows how to access the innards but I am going to post some stills of an older style in case you PC don't play the videos. I have been there My old PC barely plays em. top load washer 5 years - 05c376f.jpgcbad353.jpg03ea7d6.jpg57f494f.jpg
Yours has spring clips under each side instead of screws I believe. Simpler! But it still all comes off as shown.

How it works: Direct drive washer

This coupling is easy to replace . Nothing is hard about repairing this top load washer 5 years - 34ef7b4.jpgyou know the trick!

34ef7b4.jpg
More here
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Was this helpful?

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Sep 14, 2010

    Your new model number is no good for the US. Where in the world are you?
    How can you give me a 2 thumbs up when I gave a 4 thumbs up answer? I didn't post the wrong fuggin model number. Makes my *** want chewing gum. What is your real agenda amigo?

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1 Answer

Washer is a Samsung WWF337AAW-XAC. Just prior to the spin cycle we hear a rattling or grating noise and then it rattles throughout the spin cycle. It will sometimes rattle at the end of the rinse cycle but...


hi Rick.
Reasons a washer will make noise during spin mode:
1. Main tub bearing faulty
2. Main drive pulley
3. Motor coupling worn
4. Bad clutch
5. Worn out drive belt
6. Clogged or damaged drain pump
7. Transmission is worn out
8. Shock absorber (front loader washers)
9. Springs or dampening straps (top load washers)
10. Agitator directional cogs aka "agitator dogs" (top load washers
When the washer spins, it rides on a bearing that allows the tub to move freely with zero resistance. If this bearing is worn out, a loud noise will be heard when the washer spins. A good way to tell if your washer problem is the main tub bearing will be that the washer noise will get worse or louder as time goes on. This means the bearing is becoming more worn out and close to complete failure. The bearing in your washing machine is a circular metal object that has many small little metal balls inside. These small metal balls inside the bearing sit in a track and move when the washer is spinning. If the tub bearing begins to wear out, usually the small metal balls inside can fall out one by one causing the noise you hear. (If your washing machine is a front load washer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a rubbing sound or the drum spins uneven, then the main tub bearing is most likely bad and needs replaced.)
Washing machine tub bearing

Washer has noise during spin cycle

The bearing may also be without lubrication. If the sound you hear is more of a squeaking noise than a grinding noise, it may mean the bearing needs to be lubricated with a mechanical grease. If the sound is more of a grinding noise, then this usually means the bearing is falling apart and will need to be replaced ASAP. If you suspect your washers main tub bearing is worn out, the repair process is one of the most difficult to perform yourself. A worn bearing can also damage the tub of the washer. This means the tub (inner or outer) may need to be replaced also.
A washer making a loud noise during spin cycle can also be caused by a faulty drive pulley. The pulley is what the belt (if applicable to your washer) rides on to spin your washers tub. The pulley can be made of plastic or metal. It could be simply worn out or just loose. To find out if the drive pulley is causing the noise, you will need to take the washer apart and inspect the pulley for signs of damage.
WASHER MOTOR PULLEY
The motor coupling could also be the cause of the loud noise. The motor coupling in your washer connects the washers transmission to the motor. It is made of plastic and built to break if the washer gets overloaded. This is so the motor and the transmission do not become damaged. The motor coupling is an easier repair and can be done by most people.




Washer Washing Machine Motor Drive Coupling Coupler
The clutch in a washing machine connects the inner wash tub to the transmission. The clutch lets the washer get to the proper spin RPM in a gradual way. If the clutch is worn it can make noise when the washer is spinning. A bad clutch needs to be removed and replaced to stop the noise.
Washing Machine Clutch
The belt in your washer can become worn and cause noise while spinning. If worn out, replace the belt. Replacing the drive belt on a washing machine is an easy task and can be ordered online for less.
Washing machine belt
The drain pump in your washer that drains the water out could be clogged or damaged. While in spin mode, your washer may drain out the water by using the drain pump. If the loud noise only happens at certain intervals during the spin cycle, it may be the drain pump. Usually this can be fixed by simply removing the drain pump and removing any debris that may be clogging it up causing the noise.
Drain Pump for Washing Machine




The next part of your washer that can be causing a loud noise is the transmission. If the transmission is bad, usually the cost to fix this outweighs the cost of a new washer.
If you have a front loading washing machine, they all have shock absorbers. The shock absorbers are used to center the tub movement while in the spin cycle. These shock absorbers are connected from the washer frame to the outer tub. If the shock absorbers in your front loader become weak the washer will make a loud banging sound during the spinning cycle.
Shock Absorber for washing machine
Top load washers usually have springs or dampening straps holding the tub centered. If a spring or strap falls off or becomes weak, a loud noise will be heard in spin mode. Simply replace the strap, spring, or springs to remedy this issue.
Washing machine suspension springs
Agitator directional cogs are used to operate the upper part of dual action agitators (Top load washers). They engage the cogs on the inner area of the agitator as it turns in one direction. They release when the agitator reverses its direction. This lets the top part of the agitator to ratchet in only one direction. The bottom part will agitate in both directions. The cogs are made of plastic and wear out with regular use. They will start slipping and make a grinding noise. Another way to be sure that this part is bad is if you notice the top portion of the agitator does not move in a smooth motion. Removing the top half of the agitator to see if the cogs are worn out.

Dec 08, 2017 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Won"t spin or agitate. Makes a loud rattling noise


If this is a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER (such as Roper, Estate, Kenmore, Amana, and Frigidaire), you may have a damaged or broken motor coupling. Whirlpool manufactured top loading washers use a motor coupling between the drive motor and gearcase (transmission) in place of a drive belt. This configuration is known as "direct-drive". The coupling can break through normal wear and tear. Washing frequent loads of heavy items and reduce the life span of the coupler. Common symptoms include the following:

1. No spin or agitation.
2. Washer will fill and empty.
3. Drive motor still runs.
4. Strange rattling, grinding or clicking noise during agitation or spin cycles as the drum sits still.

If your washer is exhibiting these symptoms, then its probably a safe bet that the motor coupling is bad.

The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574231-replacing_a_motor_coupling

The part number for a replacement motor coupling is inlcuded in the link I provided. Replacements can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I have listed also included helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) and let me know. I hope this helps you.

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Front loader has gotten really really loud and shakes the whole floor when it spins properly. Today it left a lot of water in the clothes. It used to make a weird whining noise when it didn't spin out...


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Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

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if it's making a noise then either your drain pump bearing is going out or your thrust bearing is going out (assuming the noise happens in both spin and wash). Tip the washer backwards so that you can get underneath of it. Take the belt off and spin the pump pulley on the right side. This should spin effortlessly.

The middle pulley is the trustbearing pulley. Spin this--- one direction it should have a little bit of resistance--- the other should have more resistance

Aug 20, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

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Loud noise, then not so loud, but now electrical burning smell and little draining


the smell is your clutch and the lack of draining is a clogged washer drain protector. see these at www.repairclinic.com drain protector is part 541811 and clutch is 2670. go there enter model number and scroll down to the red 100 click it and look for these part numbers.

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Control boards don't growl, the fry out and die. Sounds like a drive train problem to me. If it's a front load machine, the spindle/bearing assy. has gone to washer heaven. If it's a top load machine... could be the transmission, brake/clutch assy. or the tub bearings. In either case, if it's less than 5 years old, the drive system will be warrantied through the manufacturer. If you could provide a make and model number, I could narrow this down to a fine point.

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Travioso, there was two service flashes out on this model concerning the seal and bearing which means they had an issue with this washer. The howling noise you are hearing is the bearing and will need the new designed triple seal and bearing kit. This should be covered under your warranty, I believe it is 5 years. The numbers for the service flashes are TDL-0048A-B. Call Maytag and inquire about these service flashes, these should be covered. Catriver.

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