Question about Whirlpool WTW5560SQ Top Load Washer
Don't try to remove the console with a putty knife or flat screwdriver or you'll snap off the plastic feet. There are a couple of long phillips screws on each end of the base of the console at the back. Undo these almost all the way and you can slide the console forward and tip it back.
Posted on Jun 27, 2013
If belt is got burned then it can be the problem.But if belt got burned out then it can be motor getting overheated causing the belt to get burned out.
The belt is a cloth belt which slips in the spin mode and acts like a clutch. Here is some possible reasons for why the belt might burn off.
1.Rusty motor pulley. Residue from burning belt must be cleaned off thoroughly from the motor pulley.
2.Spring adjustment-must allow the belt to slip and act as clutch when getting up to spin speed.
3.Something stuck in the pump.
4.Drain hose must be clear and allowing the water to clear machine properly. The rubber back-flow flapper in the drain is giving some problems. Some say to dispose of it.
5.Do not try to pump water higher than five feet.
6.Water siphoning from the washer and washer agitating dry.
7.Warped and wobbling transmission pulleys.
8.Tight center bearing. Replace along with belt and water seal kit. Something between the tubs causing drag on the wash basket. This would also cause slow draining problems that could burn the belt.
9.These washers are known for the transmissions locking up in agitation and cooking belt...turning transmission pulley will free it again (like installing belt) and it will work for a couple loads....look at the transmission carefully.
The noise can be the cause of blocked drain pump and faulty motor.This all has to be checked and faulty part has to be replaced.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
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Posted on Sep 14, 2010
If your model number of wtw5560sq is correct,your machine does not have a belt.
It has a direct drive coupling that is broken and must be replaced for agitate and spin functions.
Unplig the machine,use a putty knife under the right and left sides of the control console to release the top panel. Fold the panel to the rear of the washer.
Remove the 2 "S" spring clips that hold the rear panel to the front cabinet.
Unpluge lid switch.Remove the complete cabinet.
Remove the screws and clips that hold the motor in place.Remove the clips from the water pump attached to the front of the motor.
Remove the motor wires.
The 3 piece drive coupling on the motor shaft must be replaced.
When the plastic pieces are attached you must use a hammer and a socket to carefully drive the plastic pieces onto the motor shaft and the transmission shaft so that the front of the coupling is flush with the front of the shaft.
Reinstall the motor,wires,pump and cabinet.
Posted on Sep 13, 2010
There's no belt on this washer. It is a direct drive model that uses a drive coupling. The pump mounts on the opposite side of the tranny. The motor goes one direction for wash and goes the other direction for spin and pump out. You have a broken drive coupling.
How hard is it to replace? Not too bad. Flip the controls up and pop the case off. Then you can access the innards. Your washer is fairly new. I have a video which shows how to access the innards but I am going to post some stills of an older style in case you PC don't play the videos. I have been there My old PC barely plays em.
Yours has spring clips under each side instead of screws I believe. Simpler! But it still all comes off as shown.
How it works: Direct drive washer
This coupling is easy to replace . Nothing is hard about repairing this top load washer 5 years - 34ef7b4.jpgyou know the trick!
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Posted on Sep 13, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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