Question about Fisher and Paykel WL37T26DW1 Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the machine still has water in it, the drain pump is jammed or there may be an obstrution in one of the hoses. It is most likely the drain pump. Switch off the machine at the wall and unplug it. Tilt machine against a wall and look underneath. On the right you will see the drain pump. It looks upside down. Unplug the wiring harness to the pump and remove pump by turning it clockwise while at the same time releasing the little white clip that holds the pump in place. Clean thoroughly and replace pump.
Posted on Nov 03, 2007
SOURCE: fisher paykel gwl11 won't drain
F & P EcoSmart top loaders have a diverter or "Y" valve in the pump discharge. This valve directs pumped water out of the machine tub (when the valve solenoid is deenergized; this solenoid operates very slowly, BTW). Conversely, when energized, the valve directs water into the top of the tub (during wash cycle, for example). If no water flows (either way) when the machine is operating, the problem lies with the pump or its conroller*.
If water is not pumping out of the tub (preceding the spin part of the cycle) -- you might notice that the machine beeps -- but continues to pour in at the top of the tub (you can hear the water recirculating), the problem likely lies with the diverter valve being obstructed (easy fix -- clean it), the solenoid is not working (less likely to be the problem, but possible) or the controller* is faulty (more likely).
To remove water from the tub, you can either bail it out or deenergize the solenoid. To accomplish the latter, you can remove the control panel shroud assy, (remove two sheet-metal screws), lay the shroud aside and you'll see the controller* situated beneath the push-button panel. Look for a pair of wires with a connector lying loosely on top of, and running across the controller* -- one of the wires is likely orange. unplugging that connector disconnects power to the solenoid and causes the valve to return to its normal position (that is, it is positioned to send the water out of the tub and into your house drain pipe in back of the machine).
You access the pump and diverter valve (I'm basing this on model GLW 10) from the underside of the machine. The washer will have a quart or more of water in it, so take it where you don't mind spilled tub water, turn the machine over so that the machine's front is on a braod cushion or foam pad on the ground/floor. Looking into the bottom end, tyou'll see the pump at about 7 o'clock and the diverter just above (at ~8 o'clock). The big circular thing in the middle is the DC motor. Have fun.
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
First scoop out the water or run the pump in diagnostics mode and use a pitcher to bail out the water as it flows from the recirculation hose. Next, tip the machine back enough so that you can set something like a gallon paint can or other sturdy object under the front left corner of the machine to keep it propped up while you work under it. These machines are actually very lightweight. You do not remove the tub to service the diverter. There is a single 3/8" hex head bolt (which also is recessed with a phillips head) that secures the diverter to the base via a white nylon band. Remove the bolt, then remove the band, which is actually wrapped around the drain hose . Now remove the two wires, and the three hose clamps and all three hoses. Pop the valve out and take a close look at that diverter, if it is broken at the tab, this will be obvious.
The diverter is part number 426862P. You can order one here:
Posted on Feb 07, 2009
It sounds like you have a leaky inlet valve assembly. The part number is 421029P and is easy to replace. You can get one here:
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
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