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GE Profile 2006 Icemaker (icemaker model: wr30x....) doesn't make ice but cycles perfectly when jumped. Making 8 ice cubes at a time by jumping is cumbersome however. Can you explain how to get the icemaker automatic timer to cycle on its own. Is the timing mechanism in the icemaker or refrigerator. I am also astonished that there doesn't seem to be a drawer sensor but the flexible arm is built to miss it entirely. It was noticed to not be making ice about 2 weeks ago.

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  • cbula Sep 13, 2010

    Actually my model has an on/off switch and a blade-shaped feeler arm which only seems to pivot in-to-the left. We use this arm to "jump" the icemaker into releasing ice. Do you believe there is a 2nd motion to cause this to turn off. I checked the current GE Profile Side-by-Side user manual and it is the same icemaker on the latest models. Where in the icemaker is the timer? How can I test if it goes bad? How often does the part fail?

  • cbula Sep 13, 2010

    Actually my icemaker has a power switch and a green LED to indicate whether it is on or off. The feeler arm is pivots in from the left. We have been using this arm to "jump" the icemaker into releasing the ice. This is the same icemaker as found in the latest GE Profile Side-by Side refrigerators. Regarding the timer, how can I test it? How often do these go bad? How does the timer work? Thanks for your help.

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Try this procedure to confirm the fault and do the troubleshooting.
Take the ice bin out of the unit.Then set dispenser control to cube ice, open the freezer door, depress door switch and push the switch to get ice. What you should see when everything is working properly is the auger motor (the fork sticking from behind where the ice bin was) will turn and the solenoid (the device just to the right of the motor) should jump up. If the solenoid jumps up but the motor doesn’t turn, the motor is frozen. This happens when too much moisture gets in the freezer. Now to repair this you take the motor out, you should be able to take the whole housing out, including the solenoid. Once it’s out, dry the motor out with a hair dryer until it turns free. If you cant get it to turn free, replace it.
After you reinstall it, you need to try to find out what caused it to freeze. The door gasket or the ice shoot can be bad and cause the auger motor to freeze up.
If when you do this test the motor and the solenoid work as I described, then the problem is in the ice bin or the ice shoot.If not, it’s the flap, the spring, the crank, or the solenoid (the device that opens the flap). Now you need to remove the front cover off the dispenser (on most refrigerators it just snaps off). Then remove four screws behind the cover and remove the dispenser control. Once off you should see the flap. Inspect the spring to see if it is broke or out of place, if so, replace it. Then see if the crank (the part that the flap is attached to) is broke, if so, replace it. Now look at the flap to see if the edges are rolled over or is broken, if so, replace it.
Now for the solenoid, sometimes it gets rusty and won’t close all the way. Sometimes it overheats and welds itself open, if this happens it won’t open or close. In any case, if it doesn’t open or close properly replace it.If you didn’t hear a noise when you push the button to get ice, the problem is electrical.The dispenser board is the most likely problem but it can be hard to check, so you need to eliminate everything else first. If the flap opens when you push the button to get ice but none of the other mechanical parts move it can be a loose connection at the door hinge or in the auger motor housing. First, take the cover off the freezer hinge and make sure the wires are plugged in good. Now check to see if your problem is fixed. If not take the auger housing (the housing that holds the auger motor in place behind the ice bin) and check to see if the all the plugs are in good. If all the connections are good, replace the dispenser board.
If the flap doesn’t move when you press the switch to get ice, then it may be the micro switch. Take the cover off the front of the dispenser then remove the dispenser control. Now you should be able to see the switch unplug refrigerator and remove wires from switch. Using your multimeter , check the switch and you should have continuity between the terminals that are marked C and NC when you depress the switch. If you don’t have continuity, replace the switch and if you do, replace the dispenser board.
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You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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The flexible arm is the on off switch to the timer. And the timer is in the ice maker itself. Make sure that arm is in the correct position.

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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