Question about Refrigerators

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My refrigerator does not have voltage at the compressor, both fans work, the compressor relay is new. What is the next component in the system that could cause it not to get voltage? Thanks

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  • melarsen66 Sep 13, 2010

    I removed the circuit card and and on the back of the card behind relay 832A-1C-S all the solder on one of the terminals had burned off. I resolder it and refrigerator is work fine. I'm ordering another relay in case this relay stops working (it could be internally failing).

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  • 9 Answers

Check voltage at the thermostat, and the defrost timer. Those are the only devices that could cause the compressor to have no power.

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • melarsen66 Sep 13, 2010

    I removed the circuit card and and on the back of the card behind relay 832A-1C-S all the solder on one of the terminals had burned off. I resolder it and refrigerator is work fine. I'm ordering another relay in case this relay stops working (it could be internally failing).

  • melarsen66 Sep 13, 2010

    I removed the circuit card and and on the back of the card behind relay 832A-1C-S all the solder on one of the terminals had burned off. I resolder it and refrigerator is work fine. I'm ordering another relay in case this relay stops working (it could be internally failing).

  • melarsen66 Sep 13, 2010

    I removed the circuit card and and on the back of the card behind relay 832A-1C-S all the solder on one of the terminals had burned off. I resolder it and refrigerator is work fine. I'm ordering another relay in case this relay stops working (it could be internally failing).

  • melarsen66 Sep 13, 2010

    I removed the circuit card and and on the back of the card behind relay 832A-1C-S all the solder on one of the terminals had burned off. I resolder it and refrigerator is work fine. I'm ordering another relay in case this relay stops working (it could be internally failing).

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1 Answer

I have no cold air in my refrigerator or Freezer. It defrosted everything.


Condenser Coils are Dirty
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the condenser coils may be dirty. The condenser is like a radiator and must stay clean in order to dissipate the heat which was removed from the inside of the refrigerator. As the coils get dirtier the refrigerator becomes less efficient, which makes it work harder to cool down. If the coils are dirty enough, the unit will never be cold enough and will not be able to cool the inside of the refrigerator to the proper temperature.
Evaporator Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
Condenser Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
Start Relay
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the start relay may be defective. The start relay is a small device mounted to the side of the compressor. It provides power to the run winding along with the start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor started. If the start relay is defective the compressor may run intermittently or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. The start relay should be replaced if defective.
Temperature Control Thermostat
If the refrigerator does not get cold enough the temperature control thermostat might be defective. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan. If the cooling system fans and compressor are running, but the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling correctly check for an airflow or defrost system problem.
Start Capacitor
If the refrigerator isn't cold enough the compressor might be having difficulty starting. The start capacitor serves as a battery to give the compressor a little boost during start-up. If the start capacitor is burned out the compressor might not be able to start and run as often as it should. Test the start capacitor first with a capacitance meter, they don't fail often. If it's defective, replace it.
Thermistor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.
Temperature Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.
Compressor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the compressor might be defective. The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. There are several other components which are more likely to be defective if the compressor doesn't work. If the compressor itself is defective a licensed professional will need to replace it.
Main Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.

Jun 28, 2017 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kitchenaid superba condenser fan not working


Yes, the main board is located in a metal box mounted on the side-wall next to the compressor. Send it in to corecentric or fixyourboard for a re-build. The new board is pricey, and often not available, but the refurbishers have a better warranty than the manufacturer- if your fan is new and has no voltage, the main board is suspect.

Apr 25, 2016 | KitchenAid Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fan is running but compressor is not working


the ptc overload relay on the side of the compressor is bad unplug it off the side of the compressor and buy a new one plug it back on the compressor,there may be a capacitor associated with this component replace this also

Dec 08, 2012 | Maytag MFF2557HES Stainless Steel French...

1 Answer

RS652 fridge stopped working overnight tripping circuit breaker


Hi,

Turn it off completely and let is cool over night and then plug it back in and see if the fan runs and if the compressor runs...

If the compressor runs but not the fan then check for voltage going to the fan and replace as needed...if there is no voltage then trace bad to see if the main board is bad...

Start relay and capacitor may be bad if the compressor does not run after getting completely cooled down...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a greatplace to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can dorather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

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heatman101

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Condensor fan motor starts, evap motor tries to start, compressor tries to start but then the relays on the mother board begin to click on-off-on. Should the start relay be normally closed when the...


1. GE is replacing many defective boards free of charge. Check with them to see if you are qualified.
2.The start relay should be closed when refrigerator is de-energized.
3. Still a possible bad compressor or compressor start components. Test performed by service tech on compressor is usually done with a starting test cord. Would answer many questions quickly.

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1 Answer

Lights work on the interior but fan and compressor do not


Fan Outside or inside?

First Check the voltage to the compressor. Usually just 2 wires. If you do not have voltage and you are sure it should be running (it is turned on and plugged in) Check the controller (thermostat or Sensor/board assembly) because your problem is not with the compressor as of yet.
Assuming you have power to the compressor and the fan motor there is running up to speed the coils under neath are clean here are the items to look for to check out your compressor:

Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

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3 Answers

Compact refrig not cooling


Hi!

It is due to multiple reasons, compressor and relay of the compressor being the most common. Is the fan working?

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1 Answer

Whirlpool et1fttxkqoo refrigerator compressor dosnt kick in


First Check the voltage to the compressor. Usually just 2 wires. If you do not have voltage and you are sure it should be running (it is turned on and plugged in) Check the controller (thermostat or Sensor/board assembly) because your problem is not with the compressor as of yet.
Assuming you have power to the compressor and the fan motor there is running up to speed the coils under neath are clean here are the items to look for to check out your compressor:

Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

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1 Answer

Compressor not running


Try replacing the relay.

I would get a universal relay, if it doesn't start keep the relay for your new Ref. if needed.

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5 Answers

Runs but doesn't cool


Verify the compressor is running first and the fan close to it. Check for dust dirt in the condenser coils underneath. Clean as necessary. Feel of the compressor CAREFUL if its HOT to the touch and hasn't been cooling listen to it for the 10 to 20 minutes your talking about. If its precisely 15 minutes on then off and the fan motor under by the compressor starts and stops at the same time your controller (thermostat or sensor/board assy.) is not sending power on to the compressor - replace as necessary. If your fans keeps running under neath the compressor is not working correctly. here is what to do to check it.

The fan staying on underneath is the tattle tell. If its not running something else is turning off and on the compressor (they run together normally) and fan motor look to the controller.
If the fan stays on it means (usually) the compressor should be running also. So the controllers are at least telling it to run. If the fan isn't up to speed or the coil is blocked with dust and lint/dirt this can cause (in some setups) both fan and compressor to overload from heat.

Assuming you have voltage to the compressor and the coils are clean and the fan motor under is working up to par, The compressor or its start components are at fault. Here is what to look for:

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If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

Jan 18, 2006 | Hoover HCA331FFK

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