Question about Samsung SyncMaster 540N 15" LCD Monitor

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Good day, my monitor's power supply has the pwr led flashing like a pwr flux, unpluged the io board connector and the led stays on, think the ic might not be puttin out enough power and might be bad but the number does not register with phillips ecg..........DMO565R pls help

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How do the DC filter caps look? no bulging/leaking tops?
You need to verify the DC output of the 5vd and the 12~18 for the inverter, you will plug the power into the wall outlet and turn off the monitor using the power switch, check the DC voltage (The power supplies will be runing the minute the monitor is plug into the outlet and you do not want the inverter circuits to be running so you can check the DC with the inverter off and on to see if the DC ouput is steady. Please post back what you see.

Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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Nec pf-68v21 pwr led flashing red green after horizontal output


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Have a Hitachi 53sdx89BA Rear Projection TV. Turn on TV and red power light illuminates. No picture, but have sound. Check PC board in back and red led is flashing and green leds are lit. It was working...


Discharged Flyback Transformer. Removed main pc board from bottom of TV and flipped over, no apparent damaged components or blown board traces were found. Noticed a lot of flux in various areas on the board that seemed unusual (maybe TV was worked on before as I bought a showroom demo at Circuit City). Used a plastic screwdriver to remove all flux between connections on ICs, Transformers, Flyback Transformer, and various other components. Cleaned all debris, dust and crud accumulation (TV is over 10 years old and there was alot around the Flyback Transformer) from both sides of board using a lightweight paint brush.
Used a magnifying glass to check all solder joints for possible cold solders and found none. Did the same for Power Supply Board. Checked various ICs and Power Transistors for opens or shorts (in machine) and they seemed fine. Reinstalled boards, said a few Hail Mary's and fired it up.

The protector Led no longer flashed under power and lo and behold I got picture and sound!

I cleaned the lens on the projectors (again 10 years of dust accumulation) did a magic focus adjustment and it works fine!

After reading other fixes, I fully expected it to die after 10 minutes so I left it on all day and against all odds it still works.

What was the fix......Dirt buildup on and around Flyback and other components,,,,,,Flux conducting electricity between contacts on Flyback and other components.....or oxidation on connectors between Power Supply and Main Board.....I don't know.... all I know is that for the moment I saved around $ 300 - 400 in repair bills by doing it myself.

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Just a thought, but check all of the pico fuses for a blown fuse. The pico fuses look like a small yellow resistor. Some Hitachi's are famous for having a blown hi-volt ceramic capacitor and a blown pico fuse.
I think the red led on is a short protect indicator, but I could be mistaken.

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The monitor led is green but it gives white flash and still blank


Check the volatage regulator in the mainboard resolder all you found dried unsolder parts inside mainboard. Voltage test the regulator IC if have a voltage flow 2.5 to 5v DC. check ribbon cable connector from mainboard to controller board if properly connected. In the controller board find the small fuse test it for open.
Reminder:
When you voltage test in the power board
in the primary section of power supply
use hot ground. Do not use the hot ground
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because it will cause of damage
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Good Day, Butchilee,
Sounds like you have patience, hope your TV has some trace left. Hit recommends that you replace the originals with
STK-392-150's and the resistors. Replace said items with care then back down on the screen/ focus controls and gradually bring the screens up until you have pic, adjust focus. Go into customer menu and adjust color down, set brightness to 50%, contrast to 100%. Then go back and adjust the screens for proper, black/white, tracking. AND It's best to double check the soldering connections.
Good Luck, Big Irish.

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Usually this type of problem is due to a faulty electrolytic capacitor on the monitor's power supply board or the inverter board that powers the backlight lamps. If you have a soldering iron and some technical skill it's possible to repair this yourself, if you can determine the bad component. Look for a capacitor with a domed top, or what looks like corrosion or leaked fluid on the top. If you replace the capacitor with one of the same rating and type (in volts and microfarads (uf)) it may fix the problem.

The backlights are usually not the problem in this case, I've fixed dozens of monitors and it has always been a faulty capacitor.

If you are willing to try this, there are lots of resources on the internet that will provide instructions for how to do this. Replacment capacitors can be purchased (usually $0.50 or $1 each) from many electronics suppliers and on eBay.

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tell me if there is something i need to know like: what were the things that you've doing with your computer before the problem happened?? are there any recent hardware/software changes?? tell also your OS- is it XP or Vista...
1

first, let's try to check if the problem is with the monitor or not,okey? try unplugging the monitor blue connector at the back of the tower.and make sure that your monitor is turned-on.If you can see a colored bars displayed.you monitor is okey.if not, try a known good monitor...if it woks the problem is with the old monitor.(resolved)

2 (if not)
Now, complelely turn off your computer and try reseating all the cables, and your hardware components such as memory,video card,IDE cable and so on. but before doing so, unplug the power cable and then push the power button to drain the power.after reseating everything, plug back the power cable and turn on computer.try listening to the tower,tell me if you can hear some beeps also.

if no video issue is still there, try putting a known good video card if you have any.if a known good video card works then the problem is with the old one..

if the problem is still there after everything that you've done try calling the manufacturer. this is lead to a motherboard problem but try to call them first.

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