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Installing a sub panel - Black & Decker Hammering

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One of the most important thing to know about adding a sub panel is that you DO NOT bond the NEUTRAL in the sub panel. This is very key for safety and shock prevention. The neutral buss is the one that the white wires only are connected to in a sub panel. The equipment ground wires are hooked to the other bond strip that is actually attached to the box itself. Feel free to contact me if you have questions.

Posted on Sep 12, 2010

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  • pwillitz Sep 12, 2010

    If you are close to a Home Depot or Lowes or a book store, there is a spiral pamphlet out called Code Check. They have them for plumbing and electrical.
    The version for electrical shows many of the home wiring processes and tells you how to do the work and make it code compliant. A very good investment.

  • pwillitz Sep 12, 2010

    You might find this to be helpful.
    http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/elect...

  • pwillitz Oct 04, 2010

    I am sorry my solution was of no help to you.
    Paul

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Replace subwoofer 2001 chevrolet suburban


Should be a standard 8" sub, located in the passenger rear side. Remove the plastic interior body panel, the sub will be located behind. Remove the 6-or-so screws holding it in, disconnect the wires, making note of which wire connected to which terminal. Connect the wires to the new subwoofer, replace screws in new sub. Test the audio system to make sure everything is working properly, and re-install the plastic interior cover panel.

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Need to install a 2pole 20 amp gfci breaker in an ite bq panel. what are my options as I don't think they make this breaker in type bq?


Hi Pauline, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.

The only breakers that are permitted to be installed in any circuit breaker panel are listed inside the door on the label. Introducing any other type or brand is a fire hazard and a code violation. The national electrical code is very clear on this.

If you need to provide a GFCI protected circuit from this panel, you'll probably need to install a smaller panel from this panel - called "sub-panel" of a brand and type that will accept a GFCI circuit breaker. This is done by purchasing a 2P20A GFCI breaker and a smaller circuit capacity / ampacity panel rated for the same voltage as the main panel. You'll also need a ground terminal strip for this panel, too. A 60A main lug panel with 8 or more circuits type panel might be a good place to start. Purchase a 2P circuit breaker with an ampacity no greater than the sub panel is rated at - in my example - a 2P60A would be right. You may use a smaller breaker (2P40A or 2P50A) if you wish - but none greater. Mount the sub panel in a location near the main panel. Remove and discard the bonding screw or lug (if provided and installed already) that may connect the neutral bar and threaded into the panel enclosure. Install the ground terminal strip you purchased separately into the threaded holes provided for it inside the panel enclosure. Install the Ground symbol sticker next to this bar. Run a 4 conductor cable, pipe & wire, etc. feeder sized for 60A based on the location, temperature, etc. between the main panel and the main lug panel. Terminate the cable the sub panel end as follows: black & red or "hot" wires into the the lugs that are connected to the bus bars, white or "neutral" to the neutral bar and the bare or green "ground" wire into the ground terminal strip you installed previously.

Next terminate the other end of the cable. Power off the main panel completely. Terminate the white neutral and the bare or green cable in the neutral bar in separate terminals. Install only one wire per terminal - do not "double up" wires under a single screw. If there is a separate strip for neutral and separate strip for ground - maintain neutral wires to neutral strip and ground wires to ground strip. Also, do not intermix ground and neutral wires in the others terminal strips! Install the 2P60A breaker in an unused space in the main panel. Connect the two hot wires to the breaker terminals. If using aluminum wires, be sure to clean and apply oxide inhibitor to stripped ends of the wires.

Now, you should have a smaller panel with 8 or more empty spaces for circuit breakers that will become live when the 2P60A breaker is in the main panel is turned on. With it still off, install the 2P20A GFCI breaker in the new sub panel. Run your circuit(s) to this panel. Connect them as usual - but any neutral and ground wires installed must be terminated in their respective terminal strips. As mentioned above, never install them in the others strip.

If installing in a 3 phase environment - you may wish to install a 3 phase sub panel so that 3 phase loads can be connected to it. This will require a 3P60A breaker and 5 wires instead of 4 wires to be run between the two panels. The additional wire would be a hot and blue in color for a 240/208/120 panel.

I hope this helps & good luck!

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I'm trying to install an amplifier and sub in my


In the trunk or rear space there are plastic panels that cover the rear wheel mounts (solid steel bolts under the panels) I installed a Kicker Comp amp and sub in my wife's Pt cruiser and that was perfect. No engine noise or reverse accelorator sound at all. Has been in for 5yrs now without a need to touch anything.

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Are there large amp breakers that you install to run a sub panel


yes, but your main panel has to be able to handle the sub in amps ,

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I want to install a 15kw pool heater. This requires an 80 amp GFI breaker. My panel is made by Siemens. They don't make an 80 amp GFI. How can I solve this problem ?


Hi,

Usually a sub-panel is the answer. You'd have a breaker from the main panel to the sub, and wire your 80 amp into that. You'll need a local electrician, familiar with local code to advise and/or install.

Best regards, --W/D--

Jun 04, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I am installing a sub panel in a detached building from my house. Which is 100 ft away. I plan to have four separate circuits. One that will service a ceiling fan and 3 for plug ins that will only run a TV...


You could use 6/3 with ground. You must take an equipment ground conductor along with your current carrying conductors. Still drive a ground rod at the building, and add a seperate ground bar in the sub panel. Connect your equipment grounding conductor from main building along with the equipment grouding conductor to the ground rod. Do not bond the neutral in the sub panel to ground. Be aware you will still have some voltage drop, so a 220V air conditioner might be better.

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1 Answer

If my houses electrical panel is a fuse box can i install a sub panel that is breakered or do i have to stay with fuses?


yes you can install sub panel off of the fuse box /jump off main comming into fuse box.too new breaker box..good luck /PS..you may have to pull the meter to do this safly so be safe .../joe/

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I'm trying to remove a Hotpoint RVM58003. I removed four long bolts from the top but it does not move. Any help on what I need to do to remove it? Dan


The Hotpoint RVM58003 (circa 1984) cannot be lifted off a hanger after the four top screws are removed because it doesn't have a separate pre-installed hanger like newer units do. The rear mounting screw holes are part of the outer frame of the unit, which requires removal of the Microwave sub-assembly of the Hotpoint RVM58003 to expose the outer metal frame and the array of pre-drilled rear mounting holes before the rear mounting screw(s) can be accessed and removed. Based on my recent experience removing a Hotpoint RVM58003 Microwave Hood from 1984 it appears the unit was originally installed this way too. Please note that this is a very involved process. Basic steps are: 1) Unplug AC power to the unit, or turn off the circuit breaker. 2) Remove the top plastic grill over the door and control panel (2 screws). 3) Next to the grill screws remove the larger left/right screws holding the Microwave sub-assembly in. 4) Drop down the hinged light bulb/air filter cover panel (mine had 7 screws). 5) Remove the small metal cover plate on the right under the control panel. This exposes the Microwave sub-assembly electrical connector. 6) Disconnect the Microwave sub- assembly connector. 7) Carefully pull the Microwave sub-assembly out of the frame and set aside. You may need to fish the power cord through the cabinet or unscrew the power cord terminals. NOTE: this is best done with a helper because this sub-assembly is about 25-30 pounds. 8) Once the sub-assembly is out the rear plate is exposed and the rear mounting screws can be removed. I found that the GE/Hotpoint Owner's Manual does not have installation instructions. Neither does the GE web site, they only have the Owner's Manual. For more specific help and instructions I suggest calling The GE Answer Center at 800-626-2000 or hiring a professional installer experienced with this older style Microwave Hood.

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