The icemaker was making noise all day and we found an ice cube jambed. after removing, it no longer works. we have water from the door but not into the ice maker. also it does not run. the red light is solid. the line does not appear to be frozen. filter new. i took it apart and find nothing broken. in door dispenser
The ice maker must be re-primed with water to sense frozen ice in the tray, dump, and refill. Use a cup or glass to manually pour the water into the tray just below the top of the blades. It should freeze, dump, and refill.
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Does the icemaker bucket has ice cubes. If yes then your problem is in the dispensor. If no ice cubes on the icemaker bucket then your problem is with the ice maker unit.
Let say Ice cubes on the ice maker bucket and dispensor makes noise when pressing for ice cubes. Then either your ice dispensor flapper is frozen or may be ice cubes in bucket may have defrost and frozen again sticking together.
Refrigerator - Icemaker Not Dispensing,or Not Making Ice
Check that the feeler arm on the icemaker is in the down position and is not blocked.
If the icemaker does not have a feeler arm make sure the icemaker paddle is not blocked under the icemaker.
For more information on the causes of new icemakers not making ice.
For more information on normal ice production.
Side by Side models:
The filter may be loaded with sediment that can cause low water pressure.
The water pressure must be between 40 and 120 psi.
Pressures below 40 psi may cause a malfunction of the icemaker (i.e. producing hollow cubes or no ice production).
Test the water pressure:
Dispense water from the dispenser into a large measuring cup for 20 seconds. If the measuring cup contains less than 13.5 ounces (400 metric centimeters), the water flow is inadequate.
If the amount of water is less than 13.5 ounces then the refrigerator fails the test, remove the filter and test the refrigerator again with the by-pass plug in place.
If the refrigerator dispenses the proper amount of water with the by-pass plug in place, then the filter should be replaced.
If you no longer have the by-pass plug and it has been over three months since the filter has been replaced, you should replace the filter.
If the refrigerator fails the test again and you know you have the proper water pressure in your home, you should call service to check the refrigerator.
If the amount of water collected is over 13.5 ounces then the refrigerator passes the test and the dispenser is working correctly.
Ice not Dispensing Due To Clumping Ice:
Your dispenser may not be dispensing due to clumping ice cubes. The ice cubes in your icemaker may be clumping for a couple of reasons:
Low food load:
The defrost cycle radiates heat into the freezer. The ice in the freezer will naturally absorb the heat. This will cause the ice to melt slightly during defrost, then eventually freeze together in clumps. Increasing the food load in the freezer will buffer the warmth from the defrost cycle and keeps the ice from melting.
Lack of use:
When the ice bin is full, the pressure from the weight of the cubes can cause the bottom cubes to fuse and clump. To prevent this from happening, discard the clumped ice and check the bin periodically to ensure the ice is not building up.
If you do not use a large amount of ice, move the feeler arm on the icemaker to the up position to turn off the icemaker and stop ice production.
For more information on the causes of clumping cubes.
If the ice bucket is not seated correctly, ice will not dispense properly. Make sure the ice bucket is in the correct position. Refer to Use & Care manual.
i have same fridge with same prob makes 6 cubes of ice in a day with a lot of noise like you discribed also i have water collecting under crisper drawer of fridge i have to clean out water once a month or so still trying to figure out how to take ice maker out to fix
You should have three screws on the side of the ice make. Two right above the tray and one below. Remove the screws and unplug a four wire connector. When you reinstall it check for proper water fill. A low water pressure to unit or ice maker valve getting plugged up can cause a small cube to get stuck.
majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working.
When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin.
As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve.
The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere.
Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating.
Test And Inspect
The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back.
Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing.
Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).