Question about JBL Northridge E 250P Subwoofer

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Sub amp clicking on and off rapidly

The amp on this sub starting clicking on and off rapidly. I would shut it down for a while and start it back up and it would work again for a while. The last time I had it working, it worked good for about 10-12 hours streight and then it started clicking on and off again. I have since taken the amp out of the chassis and there is a slight burn mark where the 100v capacitor is on the board. Is this what is causing the problem or is it a bigger issue?

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  • musclecobra Sep 03, 2008

    I just started having the same problem. Rapidly kicking on and off.

  • sbinh Apr 07, 2009

    I have same problem as you do, but I noticed when the BASS level came out from receiver is low, it start to clicking sound ... when BASS level is high "enough", clicking sound stops.



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  • 341 Answers

Usually, it's the DC voltage in the amp's output that's triggering the amp's protection circuitry. If some component parts change its value due to temperature (overheating), it sometimes causes the DC voltage to occur. Check components such as, capacitors, semi-conductors, etc..Hope you can pinpoint the problem part.

Posted on May 04, 2015


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: E250P Not powering on... chirping noise

I had the same chirping issue with the sub. I found a document that talks about replacing the C5 capacitor for a 47mfd type instead of 470mfd. This solved the chirping issue however I still experience an intermittend issue with the power on indicator flickering off and on. Anyone hear of the fix for this?

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

SOURCE: fuse blows

Both 3 or 4 amp slow blow fuses are suitable replacements for the 3.125 amp subwoofer fuse.

It could be that the subwoofer is blowing the fuse because the one you installed was not slow blow.

But, more likely is the subwoofer has a short in the power supply which is causing the fuse to blow.

Posted on May 31, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: JBL esc333 sub not working

Well, I have recently inherited one from a family member, but this one came with the same issue. I simply drilled a small hole into the metal grating, completely bypassing the circuit boards inside. I reconnected a piece of fresh speaker wire to the sub, and had that plugged into my receiver. Now, not only can I boost my sub, I can also control its volume.(It didn't come with the remote either!)

Posted on Jun 30, 2010

  • 910 Answers

SOURCE: I have a celestion s10 sub which after a house

You say you've connected it to the Left Input on the Sub. I take it from this that it also has a right Input? Is the sound the same when connected to this?

If it is then the first step would be to open the unit and look for loose connections. If these are all OK then you'll need to check for damaged / blown components on the Subs Input PCB. (Can't find a Manual so not 100% sure of the contents of the Sub)

If the PCB & Connections look OK then the next thing would be to check the speaker. Lightly press the centre of the speaker with your ear next to it and check for a grating noise. If there is a grating noise then the speech coil has either been damamged or dislodged. This can't be fixed and the speaker would need to be replaced.

Let me know if you need any further assistance once you've opened the unit and if possible some photos of the internal PCBs etc.

Posted on May 07, 2011

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: JBL Sub 12 continues to make clicking noise

I had the same problem and fixed it by replacing the C37 capacitor (see service manual). It was a 47uF 16V eletrolitic capacitor. No external signals of problems, but it was defective according to the capacimeter. I replaced it because it was the part responsible to retain charge and keep the voltage up in the signal sensing circuit (a simple comparator). After the signal gets low or disapear, it would slowly discharge through a 10Mohm resistor (R121).
Replaced for a 47uF 25V eletrolitic capacitor.Everything went back to normal.

Posted on Oct 26, 2011

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I conected my sub wrong and the unit shut down , I reconected my sub and everything seems to work fine , should I send it in for servicing?

If i'm right, the system powers down as a safety precaution. It prevented itself that it will breakdown. It's your choice but I recon you can just enjoy and listen to your favourite music.

Apr 26, 2014 | Harman Kardon AVR 7000

1 Answer

ProSub 600 tripping off during playback of low bass and turns on after a while but works perfectly if volume is turned down. what could be the problem?

  • The DSW ProSub is a nice amplified sub. The reason it is shutting down is the amp is being worked to hard and it's going into thermal mode and after you turn down the volume and it cools down it's coming back on. To much of this and you will have a nice sub and no amp to run it.
  1. One thing to do is keep the sub/amp in a well ventilated are and put a fan on it if you can to help move the heat away from the unit.
  2. The amp is rated at 250 watts so if you push it to hard it's gonna keep shutting down. So turn it down a little so it runs longer and smoother or add another sub to the set up if you need it louder (like we all like). One sub can only do so much.
  3. Also make sure if the receiver your using has a base setting or an EQ that you keep them levels set a little lower. Most receivers and home theaters already have an amp in them and you don't want to run to much of that into another amp. It's over kill. Find that happy medium.

  • If you have any questions or comments please feel free to ask.
  • Thank you for using FixYa.
Regards, Tony

Jul 20, 2011 | Definitive ProSub 800 Subwoofer Speaker

1 Answer

Subwoofer clicks and quits

The power amp that drives the subwoofer has quit. This will require repair. It is likely that the replacement you got from Ebay was defective as well. Not un-expected as I get stuff to repair from there all the time.

Your original unit failed in a manner to shut down the power supply. The replacement has a good power supply but a only fried sub amp.

Aug 10, 2009 | JVC TH-M606 System

1 Answer

I have a PHOENIX GOLD RYVAL V1502 amplifier and trying to hook it up at 2 ohms as it describes it can be 450watts x2 at 2 ohms running wires from bridged positive and negative to the first sub then two...

Hello mgonzalez390,

It sounds like the amp/subs impedance is not matched. According to the published specifications for the V1502 amp, it is only stable in bridged mode down to 4ohms, not 2ohms. You need to get the final impedance that the amp sees up to at least 4ohms or it will continue to shut down and eventually fail completely.

If your subs are dual voice coil and can be rewired so that each sub has an impedance of 8ohms, then you can safely parallel them to the amp like you have described. If they are single 4ohm voice coils, then you have 2 choices. Connect one sub to each channel or if you want to bridge the channels, then wire the subs in series, not in parallel. Wire the positive bridged terminal from the amp to the first sub positive, connect a jumper from the negative of that sub to positive on the other sub, and then the negative from that sub back to the negative bridged terminal on the amp. This wiring results in an 8ohm load to the amp and it should work OK without shutting down. But the power to each sub will actually be less than if you wire them separately to each channel.

Hope this helps.

Jul 08, 2009 | Car Audio & Video

2 Answers

Cut out

rewire the subs-each sub you want in series=8 ohms per sub-then at the amp wire the two 8 ohm subs in parallel which brings the ohms back down to 4 ohms which is optimal for the amp and it shouldnt shut down on you any more-try that-good luck

May 30, 2009 | Kicker ZX400.1 Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

Sub keeps loosin bass

Its probably not your subwoofer- its likely that your amp is showing its age after 2 years of bumping -But it could be that you have partially roasted the coil on the sub which is tripping your amp into protect mode-thus shutting down throw a different sub in there for a week and listen to it and if it stops acting up then its probably the sub if it still shuts down then it may be time for a new amp

May 29, 2009 | Fusion FEW12PK Car Subwoofer

1 Answer


Overload maybe. If the amp is run at an improper impedence, the amp will shut down. If you are "CLIPPING" speakers / subwoofers the light will blink to indicate a hard clip . Example: 4ohm/2ohm stable amp with 4 ohm subs wired at 1 ohm.

Jan 28, 2009 | Infinity Reference 7541a Car Audio...

1 Answer

Alpine mrp-m650 amp cutting out

Some AMPs have a thermal cutout, that switches the amp off if it gets too HOT.

But this sounds like your amp or sub is screwed, either there is to much resistance in your sub, eg: Burnt voice coil, carbon builds up on the coil stopping the sub from moving freely. Push on the cone of the sub & listen for a scrapeing sound.
or test this by continuity testing the sub terminals & pushing the cone if the BUZZER on the MultiMeter cuts in & out as you push & release then your sub is screwed. ( a certain amount of repeatative pushing it may free up the voice coil.)

or your Amp may have blown a internal fault that will have to be sent of for repair.

Or you have a incorrectly rated fuse for your system,

or the battery cant kope with the power surges???

Dec 19, 2007 | Alpine MRP-M650 Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

Amp help

it might not be the amp that is not working it could be the sub or sub's. Try takeing a sub out of the box and look down the hole in the center of the magnet on the back of the sub and look and see if you can see any wire's or any thing that has come unwound in the sub and if you do see wire's then you have blown your sub. If you dont see any wires then you could completly disconect your amp for 20 to 25 minutes and then plug it back in and see if that fix's your problem. If none of this works then you can take your amp to an audio store and have them test the circut board in your amp.

Dec 22, 2006 | Sony Xplod XM-1652Z Car Audio Amplifier

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