Question about JBL Northridge E 250P Subwoofer

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Sub amp clicking on and off rapidly

The amp on this sub starting clicking on and off rapidly. I would shut it down for a while and start it back up and it would work again for a while. The last time I had it working, it worked good for about 10-12 hours streight and then it started clicking on and off again. I have since taken the amp out of the chassis and there is a slight burn mark where the 100v capacitor is on the board. Is this what is causing the problem or is it a bigger issue?

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  • musclecobra Sep 03, 2008

    I just started having the same problem. Rapidly kicking on and off.

  • sbinh Apr 07, 2009

    I have same problem as you do, but I noticed when the BASS level came out from receiver is low, it start to clicking sound ... when BASS level is high "enough", clicking sound stops.


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  • 341 Answers

Usually, it's the DC voltage in the amp's output that's triggering the amp's protection circuitry. If some component parts change its value due to temperature (overheating), it sometimes causes the DC voltage to occur. Check components such as, capacitors, semi-conductors, etc..Hope you can pinpoint the problem part.

Posted on May 04, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: E250P Not powering on... chirping noise

I had the same chirping issue with the sub. I found a document that talks about replacing the C5 capacitor for a 47mfd type instead of 470mfd. This solved the chirping issue however I still experience an intermittend issue with the power on indicator flickering off and on. Anyone hear of the fix for this?

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

SOURCE: fuse blows

Both 3 or 4 amp slow blow fuses are suitable replacements for the 3.125 amp subwoofer fuse.

It could be that the subwoofer is blowing the fuse because the one you installed was not slow blow.

But, more likely is the subwoofer has a short in the power supply which is causing the fuse to blow.

Posted on May 31, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: JBL esc333 sub not working

Well, I have recently inherited one from a family member, but this one came with the same issue. I simply drilled a small hole into the metal grating, completely bypassing the circuit boards inside. I reconnected a piece of fresh speaker wire to the sub, and had that plugged into my receiver. Now, not only can I boost my sub, I can also control its volume.(It didn't come with the remote either!)

Posted on Jun 30, 2010

  • 910 Answers

SOURCE: I have a celestion s10 sub which after a house

You say you've connected it to the Left Input on the Sub. I take it from this that it also has a right Input? Is the sound the same when connected to this?

If it is then the first step would be to open the unit and look for loose connections. If these are all OK then you'll need to check for damaged / blown components on the Subs Input PCB. (Can't find a Manual so not 100% sure of the contents of the Sub)

If the PCB & Connections look OK then the next thing would be to check the speaker. Lightly press the centre of the speaker with your ear next to it and check for a grating noise. If there is a grating noise then the speech coil has either been damamged or dislodged. This can't be fixed and the speaker would need to be replaced.

Let me know if you need any further assistance once you've opened the unit and if possible some photos of the internal PCBs etc.

Posted on May 07, 2011

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: JBL Sub 12 continues to make clicking noise

I had the same problem and fixed it by replacing the C37 capacitor (see service manual). It was a 47uF 16V eletrolitic capacitor. No external signals of problems, but it was defective according to the capacimeter. I replaced it because it was the part responsible to retain charge and keep the voltage up in the signal sensing circuit (a simple comparator). After the signal gets low or disapear, it would slowly discharge through a 10Mohm resistor (R121).
Replaced for a 47uF 25V eletrolitic capacitor.Everything went back to normal.

Posted on Oct 26, 2011

  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Acoustic energy subwoofer makes noise on start-up but then won't play

The light on the rear of the sub indicates it is getting power so it is likely that the internal amp has failed, possibly due to age.

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  • The DSW ProSub is a nice amplified sub. The reason it is shutting down is the amp is being worked to hard and it's going into thermal mode and after you turn down the volume and it cools down it's coming back on. To much of this and you will have a nice sub and no amp to run it.
  1. One thing to do is keep the sub/amp in a well ventilated are and put a fan on it if you can to help move the heat away from the unit.
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  3. Also make sure if the receiver your using has a base setting or an EQ that you keep them levels set a little lower. Most receivers and home theaters already have an amp in them and you don't want to run to much of that into another amp. It's over kill. Find that happy medium.

  • If you have any questions or comments please feel free to ask.
  • Thank you for using FixYa.
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it sounds like a bad sub woofer amplifer, as the unit heats up the capacitors start to leak and the amp will try to shut down. it would depend on how hard you are driving it, (heavy bass versus light bass) that would cause it to fail sooner than later. You need to replace the internal amp

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You're dancing around the clues. The position of the monster cable seems to affect it. What shuts off - the receiver (need to know make/model) or the sub? Just connect the cable deep enough to make contact with the metal parts you can see of the clips and/or binding posts. Don't let any conductor touch more than one metal surface. Now what?

How is it attached - RCA cables or speaker output from the receiver? Need specific info to make a good diagnosis.

The time factor is curious. Again, what's turning off? The receiver? There should be no reason for it to overload since it just supplies either Line Level to the sub amp's Low Pass Input or speaker level to the sub's Speaker In terminals. Are you slaving your Front Speakers out the back of the sub or are they on the receiver? Experiment with them disconnected.

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Hello there..Thats normal only if your sub volume and the pre amp is turned up..Your amp is the cause of the speaker jump..Turn amp volume sub level down a few and check your wire from sub to amp..If all of that is good is a normal operation for pre amp warm up in sub if level is turn to max..Try unplugging amp freom sub then turn sub on stand alone(just sub outlet plugged in and no wires from base amp plugged in..If sub stops the its the amp making the problem..If it still is there then the pre amp is either dusty on inside or the outlet plug that it is plugged in doesnt have a good ground..Hope these help to solve your problem..Have a great day...

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Sony powered sub keeps clicking in and out.

If you have to hook up other speakers through the sub, then it also amplifies the signals for the other speakers too. You can purchase an new amp for your sub here.

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sub can be detecting signal from your amp. maybe your amp has some small output when in standby mode. some amps throughput signal from satellite boxes when they are supposed to be off.
try shutting off that signal source as well.
good luck

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