Question about JBL Northridge E 250P Subwoofer
The amp on this sub starting clicking on and off rapidly. I would shut it down for a while and start it back up and it would work again for a while. The last time I had it working, it worked good for about 10-12 hours streight and then it started clicking on and off again. I have since taken the amp out of the chassis and there is a slight burn mark where the 100v capacitor is on the board. Is this what is causing the problem or is it a bigger issue?
Usually, it's the DC voltage in the amp's output that's triggering the amp's protection circuitry. If some component parts change its value due to temperature (overheating), it sometimes causes the DC voltage to occur. Check components such as, capacitors, semi-conductors, etc..Hope you can pinpoint the problem part.
Posted on May 04, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same chirping issue with the sub. I found a document that talks about replacing the C5 capacitor for a 47mfd type instead of 470mfd. This solved the chirping issue however I still experience an intermittend issue with the power on indicator flickering off and on. Anyone hear of the fix for this?
Posted on Sep 12, 2008
SOURCE: fuse blows
Both 3 or 4 amp slow blow fuses are suitable replacements for the 3.125 amp subwoofer fuse.
It could be that the subwoofer is blowing the fuse because the one you installed was not slow blow.
But, more likely is the subwoofer has a short in the power supply which is causing the fuse to blow.
Posted on May 31, 2009
SOURCE: JBL esc333 sub not working
Well, I have recently inherited one from a family member, but this one came with the same issue. I simply drilled a small hole into the metal grating, completely bypassing the circuit boards inside. I reconnected a piece of fresh speaker wire to the sub, and had that plugged into my receiver. Now, not only can I boost my sub, I can also control its volume.(It didn't come with the remote either!)
Posted on Jun 30, 2010
You say you've connected it to the Left Input on the Sub. I take it from this that it also has a right Input? Is the sound the same when connected to this?
If it is then the first step would be to open the unit and look for loose connections. If these are all OK then you'll need to check for damaged / blown components on the Subs Input PCB. (Can't find a Manual so not 100% sure of the contents of the Sub)
If the PCB & Connections look OK then the next thing would be to check the speaker. Lightly press the centre of the speaker with your ear next to it and check for a grating noise. If there is a grating noise then the speech coil has either been damamged or dislodged. This can't be fixed and the speaker would need to be replaced.
Let me know if you need any further assistance once you've opened the unit and if possible some photos of the internal PCBs etc.
Posted on May 07, 2011
I had the same problem and fixed it by replacing the C37 capacitor (see service manual). It was a 47uF 16V eletrolitic capacitor. No external signals of problems, but it was defective according to the capacimeter. I replaced it because it was the part responsible to retain charge and keep the voltage up in the signal sensing circuit (a simple comparator). After the signal gets low or disapear, it would slowly discharge through a 10Mohm resistor (R121).
Replaced for a 47uF 25V eletrolitic capacitor.Everything went back to normal.
Posted on Oct 26, 2011
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