Question about Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

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Will run great when first started but after you have stopped it then go back to restart it it will not run. You have to push the air purge many times and then it will try to start but wont idle. When I loosen the gas cap there is a big release of pressure. This has only happen this summer when I used in the spring I did not have this problem

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Sounds like you have a tank venting problem. It vents either through the cap directly or through a vent fixed into the tank itself. Hope this helps!

Posted on Sep 14, 2010


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Need to kmow how to put my feul lines back on my poulan chainsaw

There should be 2 lines on the carburetor and 2 nipples on the purge bulb. When depressed the purge bulb with push air out of 1 side of the nipples and will draw air in on the other side. Find these 2 nipples on the purge bulb. The side that pushes air out will be the fule line going into the fuel tank without the fuel filter. The fuel filter connects to the carburetor. You are pulling fuel from the fuel tank "through" the carburetor.

Oct 16, 2014 | Garden


Chainsaw primers/ re fitting hoses

It is quite obvious, by the amount of reqests we see that there is confusion regarding the correct orientation of fuel hoses on externall primers.
Lets start by saying this component is not a primer, if you were to push fuel into the carb, you would just flood it, and make starting near impossible, they are purges, they actually pull fuel from the carb, and dump it back into the tank, this way you cannot over purge the machine, and when the saw runs out of fuel, it very quickly re fills the carb ready for easy re starting.
So the fuel hose from the fuel tank,the one with the fuel filter on the end, goes to the fuel inlet elbow on the carb, this is the elbow closest to the pump cover on the carb, normally held with one philips head screw and made of alluminium. The other hose from the carb, closest to the metering side of the carb, normally held with four screws and made of chrome plated steele, goes to the shorter of the two connections on the back of the purge, this is the suction side,by pulling fuel from the carb emptys the fuel chamber, atmospheric pressure from the vent hole in the metering cover pushes the metering diaphram down opening the fuel inlet needle, allowing fuel from the tank to enter, and re fill the chamber, you can test this by putting a finger over the connection, depress the purge bulb and let go, you should feel your finger sucked down, the longer of the two connections on the back of the purge is the pressure side, this hose will go back to the tank, it will just push into the tank with nothing on the end, you can test this side by putting a finger over the connection, depress the purge bulb, you will feel a pressure on your finger, if you have clear fuel hoses, you will be able to see the fuel movement. Any signs of cracks, splits, or fuel loss from any of the hoses will greatly effect the running and well being of the machine.
I hope this has been helpfull and informative.

on Mar 08, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

Jeep grand cherokee zj 96. Run good while not moving, then for a few minutes will drive great before spitting and spluttering and losing all power and now will stall. Then if I turn off and restart it...

The first thing to do to save money when the engine stops performing is to run the fault codes. I suggesting that if you do you will find a fault with the canister purge valve /solenoid that is preventing the fuel getting to the injectors.

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fill radiator to max capacity (a funnel that fits into rad.neck is great allows more capacity) run engine keeping funnel/radiator full do this until air bubbles stop coming up and the rad.cooling fan engages.DONE. make sure climate control isnt calling for ac or defrost as this will prematurally call for cooling fans

Apr 22, 2013 | 2006 Jeep Liberty

1 Answer

I have been trying to turn on my chain saw. Ive pulled the handle back by the trigger gave a few pull on the rope. then i pushed the button in on the side also the push the button back in by the trigger...

The chainbrake should be activated when starting the chain saw. Activate the chain brakeby pushing the front hand guard forwards.b>Cold engine Start position, 1: Set the start/stop switch in the choke position by pulling thered control outward - upward.Decompression valve: Press the valve to reduce the pressure in the cylinder and makestarting easier. Once the machine has started the valve will automaticallyreturn to its original setting.Air purge: Press the air purge diaphragm repeatedly until fuel fills thediaphragm (at least 6 times). The diaphragm need not be completely filled.Grip the front handle with yourleft hand. Hold the chain saw on the ground by placing your right foot throughthe rear handle.Pull the starter handle, 4: Pull the starter handle with your right hand and pull out thestarter cord slowly until you feel a resistance (as the starter pawls engage)then pull firmly and rapidly until the engine fires.Push down the red choke control: As soon as the engine fires which can be heard through a"puff" sound, push down on the red choke control.Pull the starter handle (6): Keep on pulling the cord powerfully until the engine starts.

Nov 18, 2010 | Husqvarna 450 e-series 18" Chain Saw

1 Answer


Here is the info

NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.

2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.

3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.

OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.

4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.

5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.

6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.

OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.

7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.

Oct 02, 2010 | 2004 Honda CR-V

1 Answer

The car will run for 5 miles or idle for 20 minutes and then the engine just dies. It cannot be restarted until it cools down, or for about an hour or so. No check engine light comes on, and it runs...

Classic clogged fuel filter.
Restriction prevents full fuel flow but it will run until the restriction increases to the point there is not enough fuel.
But then when you stop, the pressure is off and some dirt can drop off, allowing it to restart again eventually.

However, it could also be a plugged purge valve. Using gas creates a vacuum, and the purge valve is supposed to maintain a slight vacuum, but let air in after a certain point. If it is not functioning, vacuum builds up until it won't run. Open the cap and listen for a whoosh. If so, then bad purge valve. Just open the vent line after the charcoal canister, to open air, and plug the line to the intake.

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Start it up. Sometimes it will have to be done a couple of times. I actually fined it works best to pump it firm and then have someone else start it while you keep pumping it. If you do it this way make sure your body is clear of all moving parts.
This is a very fast way of getting it going
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