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TV is 5 years old. Replaced the bulb 4 months ago. Worked OK with new bulb. But now when we turn on we get audio but no picture. We also hear a whining sound like a siren winding down. TV will turn off, we turn it on again, same thing. after about 4 attempts, on/off, picture will finally come on and set operates normally.

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  • johnlewis318 Sep 11, 2010

    Thanks for your comment, sounds as tho you should be right. How can I identify these capacitors?

  • johnlewis318 Sep 12, 2010

    Hi Azraelsrl,



    I pulled the power supply and I think the capacitors you are refering to are the two big 250V 820microfarad as shown in the photo attached. What do you think?



    Thanks for your help,



    John Lewis.

  • johnlewis318 Sep 12, 2010

    Sorry about the image, I had to cut the resolution way down before the site would take it. The two large capacitors are Samwha brand they are actually black and the look OK. They're not swollen. The Ballast board also "looks" OK . I think I'll start with the two big ones and see what happens. Thanks for the help.

  • johnlewis318 Sep 12, 2010

    Thanks Ladywinn. The set does operate fine once it gets started, I'm going to replace the capacitors first and see what happens. The set is a Samsung 46" rear projection HLP4663WX

  • johnlewis318 Sep 12, 2010

    It's a Samsung 46" rear projection HLP4663WX

  • johnlewis318 Sep 13, 2010

    I took the power supply board out of the TV chassis, set it on the bench away from the chassis and turned the set on. The whine is not coming from the capacitors on the power supply board. It sounds like its coming from the Lamp?? But I think more likely the ballast board which is directly underneath the lamp? When the set is going through the on/off cycles the "LAMP" light is flashing in the on/off switch at the front of the set. I'm now thinking that the Ballast board is the problem. What are your thoughts?? By the way the large capacitors on the power supply board are black and gold. The "-" strip is a gold color, same as the manufacurers logo.

  • johnlewis318 Sep 13, 2010

    Both fans are running fine. The "LAMP" light on the front of the TV blinks about 1/2 sec on 1/2 sec off. If the color wheel was bad I don't think the set would run at all, but once it starts up the picture is fine and will work OK for many hours. BTW the set is a Samsung rear projection

  • johnlewis318 Sep 14, 2010

    I checked the ballast as you described and got a vale of 5+?? Not sure how that works??? Is it radiation from the coils?? Anyway I removed the color wheel and gave it a spin and I could hear the familiar whine. So now I'm looking for a new color wheel.

  • johnlewis318 Sep 21, 2010

    Hi Cindy. New color wheel came in today, set makes the same sound with the new wheel installed???? Also makes the same sound with the ballast board disconnected and removed from the set. So it's not the color wheel and it's not the ballast. Any ideas??

  • johnlewis318 Sep 22, 2010

    The new color wheel was a complete new assembly and everything was completely installed when I turned the set on. The whine is exactly the same as before. It doesn't sound like a mechanical whine, more like an electrical sound. I disconnected the power line to the color wheel motor and turned the set on. The whine was not there, of course the set did not completely power up but it did not make the noise???? I reconnected the power to the wheel and it made the sound again???? The sound starts at a high pitch as soon as the set is turned on and slowly drops in pitch, it stops for a fraction of a second and then continues downward. Sometimes it stops and starts again at a higher pitch and continues down. This continues for about 20- 30 seconds until the startup sequence kicks out and then after a few seconds it will start over. This happens about three times and then the set will switch off completely.

  • johnlewis318 Sep 22, 2010

    I took the old color wheel and connected it to the board but had it outside of the main housing. so that I could watch if it turned. When I turned the set on the whine was there but the color wheel did not turn. It moved slightly and I spun it by hand and it would spin but did not start up. I took the vover off the board the wheel is connected to but could not see any obvious problems. They are all micro mini components anyway.

  • johnlewis318 Sep 22, 2010

    I tried both wheels outside the housing and they both do the same thing. If I put my finger on the wheel I can feel the electrical pulses but it wont turn. If I spin them by hand fast enough they will take off and spin at very high speed with no bearing sound. The whine still sounds. They will spin for about 10 -15 seconds then the set shuts down. I'm beginning to think now that it is the power supply to the wheel. Something on the DMD board but I can't see what??

  • johnlewis318 Sep 22, 2010

    I have the overide switch closed. The set wont fire up with it open. I can't run the diagnostics you indicated because the set wont start. I think the main part of the DMD board is OK because before I started to work on it, the set would operate fine after we went through the start up sequence a few times. My theory is the wheel is not getting good power to start up right away, after a few attempts it would start and then the set would work fine. Now the power supply to the wheel has degraded enough so that it wont start at all. The power for the wheel comes from the DMD board and I think just this part of the DMD board is bad. Ther are no brushes on the color wheel motor, it's like an induction motor.

  • johnlewis318 Sep 27, 2010

    Hi Cindy, the DMD board came in today and now the set works fine!!! BTW I bought this from Discount Merchant.com in San Diego. I called them about the version nr. they showed on their web site. My board was v3.5 and their board was v3.6 They said their board probably would not work but I could try it and return it without the 25% restocking charge. The only visible difference I could see was the V3.6 did not have the jumper pins to accomodate the ball bearing type color wheel. I also asked if it was new or refurbished, they said it was new but it was not. There was a lot of dust on the cooling fins and the screw holes were scuffed. It was taked out of a used TV. Just thouht I'd let you know. Thanks a million for all your help.

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3 Answers

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I assume you have a plasma TV. Usually this problem is a sign of the bearing failing in the color wheel. Depending on the TV, you can either replace the color wheel or you need to replace the entire assembly.

If you have posted additional comments giving your TV model, I'll try to find additional information.

Cindy Wells

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

  • 9 more comments 
  • Cindy Wells Sep 13, 2010

    http://www.partstore.com/Model/Samsung/S... is one source for the color wheel assembly. A better source may be the Samsung Parts store but you need to identify which of the three versions you have: http://www.samsungparts.com/ModelList.as... . The other part that will make a lot of noise as it fails is the cooling fan; however the fan failure usually causes the picture to go out when the unit overheats not when you first turn it on.

    The pictures you posted weren't clear but I didn't notice any damage to the capacitors. You usually spot bad caps from either leaking contents or bulges. (Can you clarify with a written description?) Other things to look for are scorch marks, soot or the smell of smoke.

    Cindy Wells

  • Cindy Wells Sep 13, 2010

    This still sounds like the color wheel or the fans that cool the lamp, not the power supply. Do you see a pattern to the blinking light?

    Cindy Wells

  • Cindy Wells Sep 13, 2010

    The ballast can make noise when it is failing but usually it's more of a constant clicking or a lack of click and power surge. The way I test most ballasts is with an oscilloscope. (You can also use a multimeter that can measure frequency. Hold the multimeter probes an inch above the ballast and a fraction of an inch from each other. I'm not completely sure of the frequency for this TV. (It's either 60Hz or if it is like the more modern fluorescent light ballasts somewhere between 20 and 60 kHz.) If you see a reading of zero or a very low number, it's a bad ballast. If the reading on the multimeter is 1 or either the 60Hz or a much higher value, than the ballast is good.

    I hope this helps.

    Cindy Wells

  • Cindy Wells Sep 13, 2010

    The problem is a bearing that is starting to seize up in the color wheel. That is why it sometimes comes on after a few tries. Once it's running, it keeps going but it will whine as it starts up. (You are correct that the TV will not work without the color wheel. But that won't happen until the bearing freezes completely. This is still in the intermittent stage.)

    Cindy Wells

  • Cindy Wells Sep 14, 2010

    I'm glad you have a final diagnosis of the color wheel failing.

    Ballasts convert the incoming power to a format usable by the lamp/light bulb/tube. This means that it gives a constant current but it changes sign with the AC voltage wave. If you test with an oscilloscope or multimeter with a frequency mode, you can measure the resulting oscillations without touching anything and possibly shorting the ballast. (This is just the induced current around any such device.) So what range and mode were you on for the multimeter? (If it was 100 Hz, then the reading would be 5 Hz (unlikely result if the ballast is working - so I'd suspect a bad ballast), If the range was 50 kHz, than the result would be 5kHz. A reading of 1. usually means the measurement was above the range it could handle. A reading of zero would usually be a non-working unit or not measureable signal strength.)

    I hope this explanation helps.

    Cindy Wells
    (60Hz in the US is the default minimum fluctuation; some ballasts work at 60 Hz, others at 120Hz. Then you can have the electric ballasts like those for new fluorescent lights and run at 20-60kHz. I've used a microphone attached to an oscilloscope to see this oscillation for a fixture that I couldn't get close to with a set of probes.)

  • Cindy Wells Sep 22, 2010

    I'm not sure what else would be wrong. Did you replace just the color wheel or the entire assembly? Was it a new one or a used one? (I know Samsung Parts sells the new assembly.) Did you reassemble the TV and check if you got the picture back? Is the whine different when you spin the color wheel by hand versus when it is powered up? As I recall you checked the fans as well (since the unit was failing before the TV could heat up I didn't think the fans were at fault).

    Cindy Wells

  • Cindy Wells Sep 22, 2010

    > It doesn't sound like a mechanical whine, more like an electrical sound.
    I disconnected the power >line to the color wheel motor and turned the
    set on. The whine was not there, of course the set did >not completely
    power up but it did not make the noise???? I reconnected the power to
    the wheel >and it made the sound again???? The sound starts at a high
    pitch as soon as the set is turned on >and slowly drops in pitch, it
    stops for a fraction of a second and then continues downward. >Sometimes
    it stops and starts again at a higher pitch and continues down. This
    continues for about >20- 30 seconds until the startup sequence kicks out
    and then after a few seconds it will start over. >This happens about
    three times and then the set will switch off completely.

    I'm not sure what you mean by an electrical sound to the whine. However, it certainly sounds like it is the replacement color wheel assembly is still causing a fault code. Double check how you connected the wiring for the color wheel. Apparently it is possible to get the flat connector incorrectly positioned. The metal contacts are properly mated in only one configuration.

    Another thing I would look for is damage to a current limiter coming into the color wheel. (Unfortunately, if the limiter was sufficiently damaged, there won't be enough of the parts left to tell what type of zener diode or resistor was in place at that board.)

    Cindy Wells

  • Cindy Wells Sep 22, 2010

    Did you the same test for the new color wheel (testing it for spin outside of the TV)? As I said yesterday, the only issue that comes to mind is the wire not being oriented correctly when you connected it to the TV. It is possible that the new color wheel assembly failed (a disturbing possibility) as well.

    Cindy Wells

  • Cindy Wells Sep 22, 2010

    This is a bummer since neither wheel spins properly. One thing to consider when testing with the wheel out. did you put tape or something over the lamp cover switch (so that the TV thinks it is closed)? There is an interlock to prevent turning on an open TV. I'd look at the power supply (and power board), where the power gets separated for different components (on a computer Power Supply I'd be looking at power for each rail and on each cable) and where your input power hits the color wheel assembly. This is where I'd be looking for a missing fuse or voltage limiter (resistor or zener diode circuitry). The brushes for the DC motor are another part to check. The wire or the molex type connectors on the end can be damaged or reversed as well. (I assume you didn't have trouble separating them from the original color wheel.) Check for continuity in the wire if you can. (Some times the power board will have bad thermistors - not an obvious failure point most of the time.) I've also seen some bad solder joints on the boards (not a problem until the tv goes through thousands of expansion and contraction cycles with the heat of the TV in operation).

    The DMD board controls lit pixels selection. So when it goes bad, usually the screen gets color noise - white or color specks scattered over the screen or horizontal or vertical lines. (If you plan to replace this part, you need to note the version number of the board before ordering. Samsung redesigned the unit and one works as a mirror and the other a
    transmitter for the light. They are not mutually compatible.) This can also be a symptom of the DLP chip failing from a heat issue. When the tv is turning on, you can check the DMD board from the Service Mode:
    From the Service Manual of the HLR5067WAX/XAA (very similar Samsung TV).
    Access Factory Service Mode:

    In Standby mode, press "Mute", "1", "8", "2" and "Power" to turn the screen on and enter service mode

    Input screen will be whatever you have set as main input.
    Check if there is an error in the DMD board:

    Highlight the DDP1011, then TEST PATTERN
    Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens:
    Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.
    If the above screens do not appear, this is a DMD board error.

    When the DMD board has been determined to be error free based on the test patterns check the DNIe:

    Input screen will be whatever you have set as main input.
    Check if there is an error in the digital board before the DMD.

    Highlight the DNIe, then TEST PATTERN
    Press the right arrow key on remote to scan through the following screens:
    Full Screen, WHITE, BLACK, RED, GREEN, BLUE, etc. until you get back to your initial input.

    If the above screens do not appear, IT MAY BE from a DMD board, an ATI error or there is an Analog board malfunction.

    For some, the entire color engine needed to be replaced to deal with what appeared to be a DMD failure. (Some used ones are available.) This is simpler since there are so many small parts involved.

    Cindy Wells

  • Cindy Wells Sep 22, 2010

    >The power for the wheel comes from the DMD board and I think just this
    part of the DMD board is bad. >Ther are no brushes on the color wheel
    motor, it's like an induction motor.

    Sound enough logic. I've never tracked the source of power for the color wheel motor in previous diagnostics. (But then I've never has a replacement color wheel not work.) I'd still want to check the cable for damage since that would give similar issues. (Cracked molex, loose wires inside the connector, just misaligned, or a break in one of the wires)

    If you do order the new board, again I urge you to match the version number on the part in your TV. A swap from the version 1 to version 2 board results in the TV still failing.

    Cindy Wells
    (who needed to resolder twice a single strand in an eight wire control cable. This one strand broke where the entire wire fed through a bushing from one part of the device to connect with the display.)

  • Cindy Wells Sep 27, 2010

    You're welcome. I'm glad the set is working.

    Cindy Wells

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What is the brand name and Model number printed on back of TV? I think if this is the set you are going to need to replace the color wheel.

Posted on Sep 12, 2010

  • ladywinn
    ladywinn Sep 12, 2010

    The capacitors you are showing is not the problem 820uf 250v, What is your Model number?

    Is this TV a Samaung or What?

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The whine is caused by the power source that tries to start up but fails because the filtering capacitors drain way too much current , causing it to go in protected mode - several attempts in quick succession are needed because each attempt charges the capacitors a little more till they reach a level high enough for the source to work.
Replace these failing capacitors ASAP or they will fail with a lot more dire consequences.

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

  • Azrael SRL Sep 12, 2010

    The image is very low quality (limits of the site, sorry) but they look way too yellow to me - replace them. Also you should check the ballast board, maybe you have another failure there, since the other capacitors on the power board appear just fine.

  • Azrael SRL Sep 12, 2010

    If they are black then the band on the side signalling the [-] plot should be white, yet in your picture it looks yellow - this means that the capacitor has been overheated, a clear sign that is faulty. Replace them.

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