Question about Dacor Kitchen Ranges

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: TempStar 10 AC

visit www.gotempstar.com for the schematic on this unit. Coincidentally, your air handler unit should not draw 15.6 amps with an additional 40 for the heater.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

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SOURCE: convert a Flotec Flotec FP4012 pump from 110 volts to 240 volts

Here is a link to your manual.

http://www.flotecpump.com/pdf/FP745.pdf

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

SOURCE: Iam trying to get schematic wiring diagram for

http://www.aimdocuments.com/iom/TRANE%20YSC%20RTU%20IOM.pdf

this should help

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

SOURCE: please i need help with 240v wiring to heater

i have the answer, i just did mine...though u already have your answer since this post was published a while back ago...if not write me back...

Posted on Nov 07, 2010

SOURCE: I need wiring diagram for a Broaster pressure fryer Model 1800E

I have a service manual for the 1600 and 1800 Broaster and it has wiring diagrams in it

Posted on Dec 18, 2010

Not quite sure what your question is - Are you trying to plug a 240 into a 110/120 outlet? Or are you trying to plug this into a 240 3 prong outlet?

Traditionally, table saws don't come with a power cord - you must supply one. Usually on the motor there is a metal plate that describes volts/amps/phase/hp etc. Get the Volts/Amps from this plate, then measure the approximate distance between your table saw and the 240 outlet. The gauge of the power cord depends upon the Volt/Amps and the length of the cord. There are many volts/amps vs length for wire gauge conversions on the net. I always get a bigger wire (smaller gauge) than what is recommended. Expect to pay $100 or more for the cord (don't be cheap here). If you have an under rated cord, you can start a fire, burn up your motor, melt plugs into outlets and have to replace the outlet (don't ask how I know).

I'm a little suspicious of the "white and black" wire from 240 - it's usually "white and red" with a "black" ground. 240 is made from two 120's - opposite sine wave. So black is usually the common ground, while the white and red are the two 120's. Volts between white-red=240, white-black=120, red-black=120. If you're absolutely sure that white-black=240, then you can just connect a ground wire to the motor case. Many home table saws can be wired for 240 or 120 - you need to make sure that you're hooking 240v to the correct wires. If you're uncertain at all, then don't do it.

I have wired 120 to a 240 motor by accident and the motor ran - it had no power and didn't spin at full RPM. You can damage a motor this way, so I wouldn't recommend it. I have never put 240 to a 120 motor - so I don't know what happens (guessing you could burn up the motor coils).

With all that being said, if you have 240 outlet with 3 wire receptacle, then just use a multi-meter to determine the 2 "hot" and the 1 ground. Volts from hot1-hot2=240, hot1-ground=120, hot2-ground=120. If you don't have a multi-meter, buy one (approx $12). Once you have it wired up, then try the motor by flipping the switch on then off again. If the motor didn't spin, then you did something wrong. If it hummed but didn't spin, you have some connections wrong inside of the motor. If it spins the wrong way, then your wiring inside of the motor is wrong (doesn't help to flip the wires on the outlet). If you blew a circuit breaker, then the wiring to the motor is wrong.

Traditionally, table saws don't come with a power cord - you must supply one. Usually on the motor there is a metal plate that describes volts/amps/phase/hp etc. Get the Volts/Amps from this plate, then measure the approximate distance between your table saw and the 240 outlet. The gauge of the power cord depends upon the Volt/Amps and the length of the cord. There are many volts/amps vs length for wire gauge conversions on the net. I always get a bigger wire (smaller gauge) than what is recommended. Expect to pay $100 or more for the cord (don't be cheap here). If you have an under rated cord, you can start a fire, burn up your motor, melt plugs into outlets and have to replace the outlet (don't ask how I know).

I'm a little suspicious of the "white and black" wire from 240 - it's usually "white and red" with a "black" ground. 240 is made from two 120's - opposite sine wave. So black is usually the common ground, while the white and red are the two 120's. Volts between white-red=240, white-black=120, red-black=120. If you're absolutely sure that white-black=240, then you can just connect a ground wire to the motor case. Many home table saws can be wired for 240 or 120 - you need to make sure that you're hooking 240v to the correct wires. If you're uncertain at all, then don't do it.

I have wired 120 to a 240 motor by accident and the motor ran - it had no power and didn't spin at full RPM. You can damage a motor this way, so I wouldn't recommend it. I have never put 240 to a 120 motor - so I don't know what happens (guessing you could burn up the motor coils).

With all that being said, if you have 240 outlet with 3 wire receptacle, then just use a multi-meter to determine the 2 "hot" and the 1 ground. Volts from hot1-hot2=240, hot1-ground=120, hot2-ground=120. If you don't have a multi-meter, buy one (approx $12). Once you have it wired up, then try the motor by flipping the switch on then off again. If the motor didn't spin, then you did something wrong. If it hummed but didn't spin, you have some connections wrong inside of the motor. If it spins the wrong way, then your wiring inside of the motor is wrong (doesn't help to flip the wires on the outlet). If you blew a circuit breaker, then the wiring to the motor is wrong.

Sep 27, 2014 | Saws

you are missing the voltage supply here to get an definitive answer

for 240 volts drawing 4.8 amps the required wattage is 1152

for 120 volts the wattage is 576 watts

for 120 volts with a current of 900 watts , it equates to 7.5 amps

with 240 volts with a current of 1150 watts , it equates to 4.79 amps

so you can see the problem by not stating the supply voltage

get access to an cable clamp amp meter / watt meter from an electrician and read the current on starting the ac unit

if it exceeds 900 watts for 120 volts or 1150 for 240 volts , consider a bigger generator

for 240 volts drawing 4.8 amps the required wattage is 1152

for 120 volts the wattage is 576 watts

for 120 volts with a current of 900 watts , it equates to 7.5 amps

with 240 volts with a current of 1150 watts , it equates to 4.79 amps

so you can see the problem by not stating the supply voltage

get access to an cable clamp amp meter / watt meter from an electrician and read the current on starting the ac unit

if it exceeds 900 watts for 120 volts or 1150 for 240 volts , consider a bigger generator

Aug 31, 2017 | Fixya.com Heating & Cooling

Power:

2 ohm stereo (per channel): 975W

4 ohm stereo (per channel): 660W

8 ohm stereo (per channel): 400W

4 ohm bridge-mono: 1950W

8 ohm bridge-mono: 1320W

Load Impedance: Safe with all types of loads. Rated for 4 and 8 ohms in Stereo mode, 4 ohms in Bridge-Mono mode

Voltage Gain to 1-kHz, 8-ohm rated output,

CE 1000:

30.5-dB gain at 1.4-volt sensitivity;

26-dB gain at 2.34-volt sensitivity.

CE 2000:

32.1-dB gain at 1.4-volt sensitivity;

26-dB gain at 2.83-volt sensitivity.

Required AC Mains: 50/60 Hz (North American units are 60 Hz only); 100, 120 and 230-240 VAC (+/-10%) units are available.

AC Line Current,

100 Volts: 11.4 A;

120 Volts: 9.5 A;

230-240 Volts: 5.0 A;

At Idle: All amps draw no more than 90 watts.

AC Line Connector: NEMA 5-15P (15 A).

2 ohm stereo (per channel): 975W

4 ohm stereo (per channel): 660W

8 ohm stereo (per channel): 400W

4 ohm bridge-mono: 1950W

8 ohm bridge-mono: 1320W

Load Impedance: Safe with all types of loads. Rated for 4 and 8 ohms in Stereo mode, 4 ohms in Bridge-Mono mode

Voltage Gain to 1-kHz, 8-ohm rated output,

CE 1000:

30.5-dB gain at 1.4-volt sensitivity;

26-dB gain at 2.34-volt sensitivity.

CE 2000:

32.1-dB gain at 1.4-volt sensitivity;

26-dB gain at 2.83-volt sensitivity.

Required AC Mains: 50/60 Hz (North American units are 60 Hz only); 100, 120 and 230-240 VAC (+/-10%) units are available.

AC Line Current,

100 Volts: 11.4 A;

120 Volts: 9.5 A;

230-240 Volts: 5.0 A;

At Idle: All amps draw no more than 90 watts.

AC Line Connector: NEMA 5-15P (15 A).

Sep 07, 2012 | Crown CE2000 2-Channel Amplifier

Hi Casey, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.

First, a disclaimer. Without the catalog number of the motor you have, or a wiring diagram for it, no one can tell you how to wire this motor with any certainty. With that said...

Nearly all single speed 3 phase motors have 9 leads (numbered 1 thru 9) and can be wired for either "high" or "low" voltage. Most of the time, high is 480 volts and low is 208/240 volts. Given that you posted the amperage as "41-38 / 19", I am 99% confident that 41 amps is at 208 volts, 38 amps is at 240 volts and 19 amps is 480 volts. Further below is the way to wire unless the motor manufacturer or name plate indicates differently. You will need to determine the voltage of the appliance this is going to be installed into. You should be able to find this on a name plate of the appliance - but it may provide a dual voltage spec here, too. If this is the case, you will need to *carefully* measure the voltage with a meter, or find out the voltage of the electric panel that feeds the appliance.

Once you have learned the incoming voltage, you will connect the motor as such when L1, L2 and L3 are the line voltage supply wires and wires 1 thru 9 match the numbers on the nine wires from the motor.

208/240 or "Low" volts:

Motor leads 4, 5 & 6 connected together and wirenut.

Motor leads 1 & 7 to L1 and wirenut.;

Motor leads 2 & 8 to L2 and and wirenut and lastly,

Motor leads 3 & 9 to L3 and wirenut.

480 or "High" volts:

Motor lead 1 to L1 and wirenut,

Motor lead 2 to L2 and wirenut,

Motor lead 3 to L3 and wirenut,

Motor leads 4 to 7 and wirenut,

Motor leads 5 to 8 and wirenut and lastly,

Motor leads 6 to 9 and wirenut.

The motor should be operated briefly or "jogged" to determine the direction the motor turns. If the motor rotation needs to be changed, simply swap any two "L" wires (swap L1 and L2, or L1 and L3, or L2 and L3). Test once more to verify rotation and when correct close the wiring compartment and complete the installation. Swapping the L wires will likely be much quicker and easier to do at the magnetic contactor instead of the the motor's wiring compartment. Either location is acceptable.

You should try to obtain the name plate data for this motor - if at all possible to to make sure of the voltage and wiring method. I hope this helps & good luck!

First, a disclaimer. Without the catalog number of the motor you have, or a wiring diagram for it, no one can tell you how to wire this motor with any certainty. With that said...

Nearly all single speed 3 phase motors have 9 leads (numbered 1 thru 9) and can be wired for either "high" or "low" voltage. Most of the time, high is 480 volts and low is 208/240 volts. Given that you posted the amperage as "41-38 / 19", I am 99% confident that 41 amps is at 208 volts, 38 amps is at 240 volts and 19 amps is 480 volts. Further below is the way to wire unless the motor manufacturer or name plate indicates differently. You will need to determine the voltage of the appliance this is going to be installed into. You should be able to find this on a name plate of the appliance - but it may provide a dual voltage spec here, too. If this is the case, you will need to *carefully* measure the voltage with a meter, or find out the voltage of the electric panel that feeds the appliance.

Once you have learned the incoming voltage, you will connect the motor as such when L1, L2 and L3 are the line voltage supply wires and wires 1 thru 9 match the numbers on the nine wires from the motor.

208/240 or "Low" volts:

Motor leads 4, 5 & 6 connected together and wirenut.

Motor leads 1 & 7 to L1 and wirenut.;

Motor leads 2 & 8 to L2 and and wirenut and lastly,

Motor leads 3 & 9 to L3 and wirenut.

480 or "High" volts:

Motor lead 1 to L1 and wirenut,

Motor lead 2 to L2 and wirenut,

Motor lead 3 to L3 and wirenut,

Motor leads 4 to 7 and wirenut,

Motor leads 5 to 8 and wirenut and lastly,

Motor leads 6 to 9 and wirenut.

The motor should be operated briefly or "jogged" to determine the direction the motor turns. If the motor rotation needs to be changed, simply swap any two "L" wires (swap L1 and L2, or L1 and L3, or L2 and L3). Test once more to verify rotation and when correct close the wiring compartment and complete the installation. Swapping the L wires will likely be much quicker and easier to do at the magnetic contactor instead of the the motor's wiring compartment. Either location is acceptable.

You should try to obtain the name plate data for this motor - if at all possible to to make sure of the voltage and wiring method. I hope this helps & good luck!

May 13, 2012 | Gb Electrical 100 Amp GE Load Center

Hello,

240 volts,8,300 watts would calculate to amp draw of 34.5 amps and thusly a 40 or 50 amp circuit is reccomended

GENE

240 volts,8,300 watts would calculate to amp draw of 34.5 amps and thusly a 40 or 50 amp circuit is reccomended

GENE

Oct 13, 2011 | Jenn-Air JED8430 Electric Cooktop

Ohm's law tells us that: volts = amps x resistance and watts =volts x amps. Watts (300) = volts (240) x Amps (?); or 300 / 240 = 1.25 Amps That means the inverter can supply up to 1.25 Amps to a 240 volt load.

The primary is 12 volts, this is just 1/20th of the secondary 240 volt output. Since the best you can ever get is 100% efficiency -this means you'll need to supply 20 times the current. 1.25 Amps (at 240V) x 20 = 25 Amps (at 12V). As a check, from above Ohm's law that states Watts=Volts X Amps we get: 12VDC x 25Amps = 300Watts. Check!

Some side notes. The Ohms law used above is for DC circuits and purely resistive loads on AC circuits. I do not know what your 1.25 A @ 240VAC load is - but I suspect it won't be purely resistive. Also, since we're working with an electronic inverter as opposed to a transformer and DC rectifier there are some things that push losses higher. You might need to provide a 30 Amp 12 VDC source voltage in order to provide the 1.25A @ 240VAC output. Lastly, I wouldn't not run the output at maximum for long periods of time - or at all. 1 Amp @ 240VAC would be much better.

I hope this answered your question & good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.

The primary is 12 volts, this is just 1/20th of the secondary 240 volt output. Since the best you can ever get is 100% efficiency -this means you'll need to supply 20 times the current. 1.25 Amps (at 240V) x 20 = 25 Amps (at 12V). As a check, from above Ohm's law that states Watts=Volts X Amps we get: 12VDC x 25Amps = 300Watts. Check!

Some side notes. The Ohms law used above is for DC circuits and purely resistive loads on AC circuits. I do not know what your 1.25 A @ 240VAC load is - but I suspect it won't be purely resistive. Also, since we're working with an electronic inverter as opposed to a transformer and DC rectifier there are some things that push losses higher. You might need to provide a 30 Amp 12 VDC source voltage in order to provide the 1.25A @ 240VAC output. Lastly, I wouldn't not run the output at maximum for long periods of time - or at all. 1 Amp @ 240VAC would be much better.

I hope this answered your question & good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.

Mar 09, 2011 | Electronics - Others

Its probably not a bad idea. Thats alot for a 100A panel to handle, a range needs a 50A, a water heater needs 30A, and the heat will need a 50A or a 60A breaker... Plus whatever else is in the house will be a bit more than the 100A service can handle. But if you don't have the money it will do for a while because for the most part they won't all be pulling at the same time. Word to the wise get at least a 30 space panel when you upgrade, I always install a 40 space panel because for the cost difference its well worth it for future needs because you'll fill it up quicker than you think and you'll have space for anything else you may want to add later on. Hope I helped

Dec 09, 2010 | Your One Source Homeline Circuit Breaker

Depends how many amps you plan on using. 10 awg wire can handle about 30 amps at 240 volts and max distance is 80 feet. If you want more power you will need heavier wire, like 6 awg will handle 50 amps at 240 volts and max distance is 125 feet.

If you need more info please contact me.

If you need more info please contact me.

Apr 09, 2010 | Measuring Tools & Sensors

look at your voltage 120 volts, or 240 volts, then amp rating. #8 THHN wire, or #8 romax is only rated for about 40 to 50 amps, your ground wire would be a # 12.

Oct 25, 2009 | Water Heaters

- Connected Load (kW Rating) 240/208 Volts: 3.5/2.6
- Amps @ 240/208 (Approx.): 14.6/12.6
- Minimum Circuit Required - Amps: 30
- Bake Element Wattage 240/208 Volts: 3400/2554
- Broil Element Wattage 240/208 Volts: 2750/2065
- Armored Electrical Cable

Jul 25, 2008 | Frigidaire PLEB30S9DC Electric Single Oven

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