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Whirlpool duet wfw83005w04 machine will not spin during the spin cycle.It does work during the wash and rinse.What is the problem?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jonniewalker
  • 1029 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool top Loading washing machine won't spin on spin cycle

If the washer won't finish a spin cycle, it probably means that your timer went bad or stalled. You can take the control panel off and look at the contacts for scorching or corrosion.

Posted on Sep 21, 2008

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SOURCE: Whirlpool Model LSV6234AWO

door switch bad?

Posted on Oct 18, 2008

  • 240 Answers

SOURCE: water leaking from the soap dispenser during rinse and spin cycle

use liquid instead of powder and always use HE detergent

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Water level issues on the Whirlpool washer.

It's overfilling If your washer is overfilling, check these:

Water-inlet valve
Water-level switch
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.

Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.

It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected. 

If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.

Posted on May 08, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Leak during rinse and final spin

Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.

  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.

  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.

  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Posted on May 20, 2009

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How do I fix my washer that only says 'sud' constantly and won't work at all? Whenever I try to start a cycle nothing happens. Whenever I push a button nothing happens. Please Help.


http://whirlpool.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2948
Hi please go to this above link, it is all explained at length what is going on and what to do.

This error code indicates that excessive detergent suds occurred during the cycle.
If a "Sud" or "Sd" error code is displayed, or if you can see excessive suds in the window:
There are too many suds in the washing machine. The washer will not be able to spin out water with the excess suds. When "Sud" or "Sd" is displayed, the washer automatically extends the rinse time to remove the excess suds. During this time, the washer pauses the tumbling and adds water for additional rinsing. This pause allows the bubbles in the suds to break. This pause and rinsing are necessary and may occur several times to eliminate the suds. See the animation below for more information.
  • If you see "Sud" or "Sd" with the Rinse status light on, the washer is in the process of removing suds. Let the cycle continue.
  • If you see "Sud" or "Sd" and the Cycle Complete light is on, the washer detected too many suds during the cycle and your load may not be fully rinsed or water may not be fully removed. You may want to select a Rinse/Spin cycle for further rinsing.

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Grinding duet ghw9150pw4 front load washer


This is joyce
I just had to have my barrons replaced in my washer on the spin cycle it sounded like plane taking off. I dont know about yours but mine was loud, you probl. have the same problem. get a technician to come and check it out, all these machine's are hard to work on so let professional take care of it. if you need me to find someone in your area please just let me know.
thanks,
joyce

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