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I was looking for the setting for the fuel air mixture screw for the bolens 31 cc 2 cycle cultivator

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From the factory, when everything was new, the Hi and Lo screws were 1 1/4 turns out. As things wear and as fuel forms deposits in the carb, you may have to adjust the screws out further. Usually Lo gets stopped up a little first. Lo side adjustment effects how the engine goes from idle to upper speeds. Hi side only effects the engine at wide open throttle. If you have to go more than 2 1/2 turns out on either screw, then a carb overhaul or replacement is in order.
Good luck!

Posted on Sep 12, 2010

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Bolens cultivator model BL425 engine will not start


I would make sure that you have the proper gas/oil ratio mixed first. If that is ok then I would have the filter changed. If that doesn't solve the problem then you should take it in to have the carburetor serviced.

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Mantis will only run when the choke is on. If I try to push the choke in it dies.


Having owned a Mantis for many years it sounds like your air/fuel mixture may be to lean when you push the choke in. First check the simple stuff. Make sure you are using fresh fuel with the proper 2-cycle oil mixture. Check or replace the fuel and air filters. Replace the spark plug annually. These are the routine maintenance procedures found in your owner's manual. If none of this solves your problem either the carb fuel mix adjustment screws are not set properly or a carb rebuild kit is needed. The proper setting for the mixture screws should be detailed in your manual. Removing the carb and replacing the needle valves, gasket and other items takes a little more expertise. Before jumping in to this and assuming all other maintenance has been performed press the fuel primer bulb several times before trying to start it. You should feel resistance after 3-4 pushes. If you don't feel any resistnace the carb is not being primed and the bulb needs replacement (you may notice a small fuel leak if this is the case). If you can get it primed, pull the choke out, start and let it run a minute or so. Then make small, gradual changes by turning the fuel mix screws (not the idle adjustment) as noted in your manual. Try to push the choke in half way or as far as you can without killing the engine. If may run a little rough but continue tweaking the screws until it smooths out a little. Gradually continue pushing the choke in and turning the adjustment screws as needed to keep it from stalling. This is best done with the tines supported off the ground during adjustments. Just make sure to protect yourself and others from coming in to contact with them. When set correctly you should be able to achieve full throttle with the choke fully closed. A little time and patience should get you up and going again. Of course you can always contanct Mantis at www.mantis.com or call them for troubleshooting assistance. Hope this helps.

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I have a 50 cc kazuma atv i know the upper screw is the idle and the lower is the air/fuel mixture, what should the air/fuel mixture be set at, for example, 1 and a half out?


The easiest way to adjust the air fuel is using a RPM capable multimeter. But, in a pinch, a good ear will do just fine. Adjust the screw inward until the rpms drop. Turn it VERY slowly until the rpms return upward. Once you finish, just work the screw back and forth to get it to the point the rpms change (however this is not necessary). Congradulations. You're finished.

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RE: MTD trimmer YM1500, 31 cc motor. Won't run without the check lever near full on. Fresh gas, mixed 1 gal to 3.2 oz 2-cycle oil. Found & tightened loosescrew on throttle butterfly valve, and loose...


Most carbs have a H (running) and L (idle) mixture screws on them, but the newer ones are getting away from that somehwhat and some aren't adjustable. I am including a tech guide for carb adjustment for a Zama carb. All diaghram carbs are similar.
http://www.zamacarb.com/tipspage.html

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1 Answer

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One screw is fuel and one is air, try turning the screws in all the way then open three turns and start from there.

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I have a Bolens BL410 cultivator that stops running when it gets hot. The engine starts perfectly every time, but after using is for a couple of minutes the motor speeds ups suddenly and then shuts off. I...


Hi and welcome to Fixya. The symptoms your describing are typical of what happens when the engine experiences fuel starvation.

It can be caused by a clogged fuel filter screen located at inside the attachment point of the fuel line manifold on the carb. Turn off the fuel and remove the mounting bolt for the fuel mainfold. Very carefully remove the plastic screen inside the manifold and clean off the debris that has built up on the screen.
If the screen was visibly clogged you probably have solved your problem. Just make sure you re-install the screen when re-connecting the fuel line manifold.

If the screen was not clogged then check your fuel lines for cracks. Air being introduced into the system will cause the same symptoms you describe.

If the problem persists then there is the possiblility that the needle and seat are partially blocked inside the carb itself on the bottom of the carb body after you remove the bowl. (Usually not the problem) However the bolt that holds the bowl on has 1 or 2 holes in it that can also clog and they must be clear.

And finally there is a BRASS jet that unscrews with a screwdriver in the bottom of the long draft tube (way below the throttle slider / needle) that gets clogged. Unscrew the brass jet and force air from the threaded end to clear the orifice.

By this time you probably figured out the float comes off with the bowl. note which side is UP! Also DO NOT adjust the float level it is preset. u|Unless you bent the float control arms it does not need adjusting.

Turn on the fuel... and start the unit after re-assy and it should run just fine. You should be tilling real soon!


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1 Answer

Bolens 2 cycle tiller will not start


Improper adjustment is a possible problem. However could also be trash in carburetor. Adjustments can be tricky. Recommend a tech.

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