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After installing shower wall panels and bracing, I was re-reading the manual and discovered I installed the finished side against the sub-wall. Please tell me this will not be a major problem.

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Just keeping it clean.

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

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How do install delta shower


If you are looking to replace only the shower head, you'll need two plumber's wrenches, a cloth, and Teflon tape.

First and foremost, read the install instructions that come with the new shower head...

After you clearly understand what the instruction's say, shut of the water supply lines for the hot & cold water.

Take one of the wrenches and apply it to the neck of the water supply tube coming out of the shower wall (a.k.a. goose neck or supply nipple, or arm, depending upon the design). It'll have male threads (the threads are on the outside of the fitting). I would place a cloth of some sort around it before placing the wrench on it so you don't mar the finish of the water supply tube.

Place the second wrench on the shower head assembly (which has the internal, female threads). and unscrew it by turning the shower head assembly counter-clock-wise (to the left) while holding the water supply nipple with the other wrench.

You need to do this, so you don't snap or deform the water supply nipple coming out of the shower wall- and/or possibly causing leaky damage to the fittings behind the shower wall.

To replace the shower head, you reverse the removal process- the only difference is, you wrap Teflon tape around the male threads of the water supply nipple before spinning on the new shower head.

Somethings to be careful of, and I can't stress this enough, DO NOT cross thread the new shower head onto the water supply nipple. You should be able to screw it on the new shower head by hand- where it is hand tightened- then using the double-wrench method that you used to take off the shower head, turn the new shower head an additional half to three quarter turns with the wrench, clock-wise; and I mean gently.

Here's a nice short video on the subject, illustrating my instructions: http://youtu.be/fiv4Zq9v4co

Jul 27, 2014 | Delta Faucet Home

1 Answer

How to add a shower to bathroom


have to open wall , other side of shower if sheet rock is better, replace faucet controls, add new pipe up and install shower head then re close wall.

May 14, 2012 | Home

1 Answer

Who knows where I can get a guide to replace the Heater Core on my 2006 Ford Freestar?


I have the shop manual & wiring book from Ford for your car. If interested, let me know. $25 plus postage.

this is a big job, time consuming. Is it leaking coolant?

Removal and Installation
NOTE: If a heater core leak is suspected, the heater core must be leak tested before it is removed from the vehicle.
  1. Drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.
  1. Position the front seats fully rearward.
  1. Depower the supplemental restraint system. For additional information, refer to Section 501-20B.
  1. Remove the wiper motor and pivot assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 501-16.
  1. Remove the LH and RH windshield side garnish mouldings. For additional information, refer to Section 501-05.
  1. Remove the LH and RH A-pillar lower trim panels. For additional information, refer to Section 501-05.
  1. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core.
  1. Lower the glove compartment.
  1. Remove the 3 steering column opening panel lower bolts.
    • To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
  1. Remove the steering column opening panel cover.
  1. Remove the steering column opening panel upper bolts.
    • To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
  1. Remove the steering column opening panel reinforcement.
  1. Remove the 4 storage console pin-type retainers.
  1. Remove the storage console.
  1. Remove the rear seat floor duct adapter.
  1. Remove the upper instrument panel finish panel.
  1. Remove the LH lower instrument panel bolt.
    • To install, tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
  1. Remove the LH upper instrument panel bolt.
    • To install, tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
  1. Remove the 4 upper instrument panel bolts.
  1. Remove the upper instrument panel cowl bolt.
    • To install, tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
  1. Remove the 4 instrument panel center support brace bolts.
    • To install, tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
  1. Remove the LH instrument panel support bracket bolt.
    • To install, tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
  1. Loosen the RH instrument panel bolts one half of the bolt length, but do not completely remove the bolts.
    • To install, tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
  1. Working through the glove compartment opening, remove the RH instrument panel support bracket bolt.
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  1. Position the LH side of the instrument panel slightly away from the dash panel.
  1. Remove the heater core and evaporator core housing support brace nut.
  1. Remove the heater core and evaporator core housing support brace bolt.
  1. Remove the heater core and evaporator core housing support brace.
  1. Remove the 4 floor duct screws.
  1. Remove the floor duct.
  1. Remove the 7 heater core cover screws.
  1. Detach the wire harness from the heater core cover.
  1. Remove the heater core cover.
  1. Remove the heater core.
  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
  1. Fill the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.

Oct 31, 2011 | 2006 Ford Freestar

1 Answer

Some years ago I purchased and installed a MAAX shower stall. After installation, it developed squeeks in the floor. I have identified that the squeeks are eminating from the aspenite that was attached to...


Hello. When you say basement side, I assume you are referring to the underneath. There are a number of options available, all hinge on the conditions you have.

1) Plenty Of Room: The best scenario. You can install a solid cross brace (preferably the same material as your joists) across spanning from one joist to another under the seam. Nail (best method - due to ability to handle potential shear stresses) cross brace in as secure as possible to the floor boards. Once that is done, lightly drive in a shim or two coated both sides with a little (this stuff goes a long way!) construction adhesive.

2) Same as Above, But Pipes Run Through: Either use a solid cross brace that will fit (ie 2x3) and treat the same as above, or use the 2x2 method where they are installed diagonally, but directly underneath the seam and shim. This should remove most of the squeak.

3) Not So Much Room, But Still Workable: (ie no pipes but limited access) Build an "H" frame that will span between joists, and the cross piece will do the same as #1. Secure in any manner you can, but ensure that it is secure on both sides of each support. Then shim and glue.

4) Can't Cross Brace: Not the greatest solution, but sometimes necessary. This one depends solely on the knowledge you have of the materials used... specifically their thickness'. Cut a piece of 5/8 inch (3/4 inch is better) plywood that will fit into the beam spaces under the seam. Be sure that they span about 6 to 8 inch on either side of the seam using screws (prefferably the kind meant for wet applications). NOTE: some shower bases are installed on a concrete/thin-set curb, this means that the screws must not penetrate the sub floor OSB. So, if your flooring material is only 5/8 inch, your overall screw length should not exceed 5/8 plus material used. (ie 5/8 + 5/8 is 1 and 1/4 inch maximum. Ideally 1 inch only) After all we only want the screws to hold. Before securing the brace, spread a good construction adhesive on it (I am a big fan of PL Premium).


If you are referring to the other side of a wall, and the shower is on the lowest level, there isn't much available in my experience. I have seen some similar issues involve: removing the silicone around the base and securing that. This involves drilling some of the material out on one side of the seam, filling with a two part epoxy, using heavy weights to secure the floor down, and shaping the epoxy smooth so the caulking will cover. This never does the job completely as access to the seam is limited.

These methods are a few suggestions that should help the issue. If they help out, please rate this answer a four thumbs-up. Thank you and good luck.

Mar 24, 2011 | Maax Acrylic Base for Shower - 102623

1 Answer

I bought a maax shower base. i am going to intall a cement board on the wall, water proof it and then tile over it. The shower base has a flange that is 1/4'' thick. do i install the cement board on top of...


There are two ways that I would do it depending on the width of the ledge on top of shower base. If you have enouch room I would shim studs with strips of material thick enough to bring the surface out even with flange on shower base. Then I would put cement board(wonder board) on wall and over shower flange to set on top of shower base. Finish seams on wall board per manufacturers directions,Let seam filler dry then seal with thompsons water seal or equivalent sealer. Let that dry then tile on that grouting and sealing with quality caulk at joint between shower base and tile.
If ledge on shower base is not wide enough then I would place cement board directly to studs then use filler strips on face of shower base flange to bring two surfaces flush. Water seal let dry and tile again coming down over top of shower. Grout and caulk to finish. P.S. I would use a siliconized latex emulsifier to mix in with grout. It gives a better ware proof seal. Hope this helps you. Good luck and thank you.

Jan 30, 2011 | Maax Acrylic Base for Shower - 102623

1 Answer

We have a shower surround that is 1/4" thick. However, there is a void of at least 1" from the stud. Where do you mount the valve on the stud? Should it be in the middle or offset? We are...


can you get behind the surround?
Install it in the dead center of your cut out. Use 1x1x3" to support the piping behind your wall of the surround. silicone one side of each 1x1 apply to the wall between pipe and wall then use 1/2" copper "two hole straps/clamps" (any hardware guy will know this when you ask for them.) Use 1/4 - 3/8" drywall screws to fasten the pipe straps to the 1x1's. You'll get your stability when you install your escushtion (beauty ring) on the inside of the shower. Will tighten up against your 1x1's.

You'll see,
Enjoy,

Mike.
Ps. Plz leave a remark.

Dec 31, 2010 | Moen & One Handle Tub & Shower Faucet

2 Answers

The device the sprayes water from the shower head has broken. The shower head does not unscrew for the shower arm. The shower arm is attached behind the tiled wall. How do I remove the shower arm and...


The shower arm should be screwed into an elbow inside the wall. Unscrew the shower arm by putting your pipe wrench on the arm and unscrewing in a counter clockwise direction ( lefty loosey, righty tighty ) . Measure the length of the arm going inside the wall and make sure your replacement has enough length to reach. Teflon tape the inside end ( the end going in the wall ) and wrap a rag around the new arm, then screw into the elbow going clock wise , stopping when it starts getting tight and with the bend facing downward. Install shower head.

Nov 20, 2010 | Price Pfister Home

1 Answer

Remove dash in 2006 f150


INSTRUMENT PANEL

Removal and Installation
  1. If equipped with adjustable pedals, move the pedals to the full forward position.
  2. If equipped with a floor console, remove the floor console.
  3. WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, read and follow all warnings, cautions, notes and instructions in the supplemental restraint system (SRS) deactivation/reactivation procedure.
Depower the supplemental restraint system (SRS).

  1. Position the LH and RH door weatherstrip seals aside.
  2. Remove the A-pillar trim panels and RH cowl side trim panel.
  3. Remove the LH and RH instrument panel side finish panels.
  4. Remove the 2 steering column opening trim screws.
  5. Remove the steering column opening trim.
  6. Remove the steering column cover.
  7. Remove the instrument cluster finish panel.
  8. Remove the instrument panel center finish panel.
  9. Remove the instrument cluster center finish panel.
  10. Remove the parking brake release handle bolt.
    • To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in) .
  1. Position aside the parking brake release handle.
    • Remove the parking brake release handle pin-type retainer.
  1. Remove the hood release handle bolt.
    • To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in) .
  1. Position aside the hood release handle.
  2. Loosen the electrical connector screw and disconnect the bulkhead electrical connector.
  3. Remove the ground bolt.
    • To install, tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft) .
  1. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
  2. Position aside the front carpet.
  3. Remove the 4 LH center brace bolts.
    • To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in) .
  1. Remove the LH center brace.
  2. If equipped, disconnect the transmission range indicator cable and position aside.
  3. CAUTION: To avoid damage to the clockspring, do not allow the steering column shaft to rotate while the intermediate shaft is disconnected.
Remove the steering column pinch bolt and disconnect the steering column intermediate shaft.
  • To install, tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft) .
  1. Disconnect the steering column electrical connector.
  2. Remove the ground bolt.
    • To install, tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft) .
  1. Disconnect the radio antenna.
  2. Disconnect the 4 PDB (B1, B2, L1 and L2) electrical connectors.
  3. Disconnect the ETAC electrical connector.
  4. Disconnect the instrument panel electrical connectors.
  5. Position aside the front carpet.
  6. Remove the 4 RH center brace bolts.
    • To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in) .
  1. Remove the RH center brace.

  1. NOTE: If equipped with a floor console, remove the third center brace.
If equipped, remove the 4 third center brace bolts.
  • To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in) .
  1. If equipped, remove the third center brace.
  2. Remove the 2 defrost grilles.

  1. Disconnect the wiring harness pin-type retainer.
  2. CAUTION: To avoid damage to the instrument panel, an assistant is required to support the panel before carrying out this step.
Remove the 9 instrument panel bolts.
  • To install, tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft) .
  1. CAUTION: Before removing the instrument panel, make sure all electrical connector wiring is free and not hindered.
Remove the instrument panel.

  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Oct 20, 2010 | 2006 Ford F-150

2 Answers

How do I wall mount the 65" TV. There are no instructions in the manual provided with the TV


You can buy a universal wall mount the will fit on that 65" plasma that comes with all necesary hardware and instructions to mount the TV to the wall. Now that 65" tv is really heavy so it needs good anchors to support the weight of the display.

Jan 02, 2010 | Panasonic VIERA TH-65PV500 65 in. Plasma...

1 Answer

Installing a stering pivot door


on the pivot side, the seal will go toward the outside,.providing that the seal is on the door,...the seal "on the pivot side of the door" will go up against the wall jamb as you close door,.....

Jun 20, 2009 | Sterling Plumbing 1500D-31S VISTA PIVOT...

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