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I just put a new compressor in with a reversing valve aswell I put a suction drier and a liquid line drier on.I flushed the system with proflush and nitrogen. this system is 4 yrs old I didnt put it in im just the one having to fixit. the coils are clean and also put a new thermostat on cause it was malfunctioning. The compressor had to be replaced due to burn out and the lines had black sluge all thru it. I pulled the pistons out and cleaned them aswell. I scaled my r-22 in this 13 seer split systems holds just over 14 lbs. after starting system and letting it run for about 30 min on a 74 degree day my pressures were 58 and 160 with a 50 degree super heat by useing the field piece superheat meter. I came to the con clustion that I am restricted and began blowing the system out again with nitrogen I have my own bussiness with noone to get advice from due to the supply house being closed. after running 2 nitrogen tanks thru the system I started it back and im 3/4 of the way charged and my pressures are suction in vac and head at 40. question is where could my restriction be or is it something else when I blow it out it seems fine. this is a copeland scroll compressor on a 5 ton goodman

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Hello Sometimes there is a SCREEN in the liquid line just b4 the piston in the tube.You had a SEVERE burnout the filter driers are shot from doing there job even with the short run time.Also you could try pulling the piston out and blow out the cap tubes in the evap.Close the suction service valve and pressurize the pipe and let it blow out the piston holder ot help clear those tiny tubes.Use a OVERSIZE liquid drier this time,Get a 10 ton drier or better.

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

  • Jason Pendleton
    Jason Pendleton Sep 11, 2010

    Thanks for you comments I have already done that with exception of over sized drier I dont understand how that would help if the resrition can fit thru the liquid line the openings on the drier are the same size and a drier bells out with screens on each end. thank you for your help



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How much it cost to replace a compressor on True Deli-Cases TSID-72-l2

Your looking at a Job that takes about 4 to 5 Hours of labor. Reclaim machine,Vacuum pump, Torch, Silver Solder, Freon, Nitrogen,Liquid line drier, Possible suction line drier if it was a shorted compressor windings. New start components. and then maybe a cap tube depending on what caused the compressor to fail. So with that said you can expect to spend $1500 to $2300.

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Hi, welcome to my name is Shawn and I will be answering your question.
Suction Accumulator/Drier
Special Service Tool(s) st1227a.gif Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool (3/4 inch)
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  1. NOTE: Use a back-up wrench to avoid damage to the tubes.
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I hope my assistance helped you and resolved your concern, if you need further assistance please ask.

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1 Answer

Hi, I need to relocate the split air conditioner, but I don't know the first step and next steps. Thank you,

If you are not a service technician you probably won't have the tools you will need to accomplish the move. Here is what it takes, step bye step. 1. Pull the fuses or turn off the electrical breaker in the house. 2. Hook up a gauge manifold to the Condensing unit ports for the liquid and suction lines. 3. Hook up a Refrigerant recovery machine to the manifold. 4. Recover the refrigerant into recovery tanks down to a trace, no vacuum. 5. Disconnect the electrical whip and control wiring from the condenser. 6. Close off the service valves on the liquid and suction lines at the condenser. 7. Slowly unscrew the copper line connections to the condensing unit to relieve any pressure that may exist from Refrigerant boiling out of the oil in the compressor and quickly cap them. 8. Move the unit to your new, firm and level location. 9. Remove the old electrical disconnect and whip and move it to the condenser. 10. Buy a new line set of the proper length or extend the old one with Refrigeration copper and couplings preserving the condenser couplings. 11. Replace the liquid line drier and reconnect the copper lines to the condensing unit. Replace the "O" Rings if needed to insure a good seal. 12. Hook up a vacuum pump to your gauge manifold. 13. Open the isolation valves on the condenser. Depending on the oil type in the system, evacuate to 250 Microns. 13. Charge system with 50 pounds of Nitrogen and a little Refrigerant for a trace test. 14. Watch your gauges for a drop in pressure indicating a leak. 15. Check all fittings and any splices with a good Halogen gas detector. 16. Evacuate the system again to the point of vaporization of the oil in the compressor being careful not to boil it off. 17. Close off all ports on your manifold and install a small drier to your Refrigerant line. 18. Re-install the recovered Refrigerant, running it through the small drier on your manifold. 19. Re-check for leaks. 20. Install the electrical whip on the contacter and the control wires on the contacter coil. 21.Start the AC and check the running amps against the name plate Full Load Amps (FLA) or Regular Load Amps (RLA) and check the Refrigerant charge against the units chart. Either in your owners manual or glued to the electrical access cover.
Method 2 = Instead of recovering the refrigerant, you can pump it into the condensing unit. With your gauge manifold tied in, close the liquid line isolation valve. Run the compressor till the compound gauge reads 1 pound and close the suction line isolation valve. Doing it this way will eliminate the need for the recovery machine and heavy tanks. All else remains the same.
Special tools needed = Compound gauge (meaning it reads both pressure and vacuum). High pressure gauge, gauge manifold and at least 3 hoses, a vacuum pump, leak detector (or soap bubbles) and an amp probe. Please rate this response. Thanks for asking!

Apr 01, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

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2.Remove suction and discharge lines

3.Remove electrical components

4.Remove old compressor

5.Install new compressor

6.Install electrical components

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8.Remove old drier and install new one

9.Connect gauges and evacuate from both high and low sides to at least 500 microns

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

Replacing AC compressor

its not easy, you have to recover freon, then braze in new comp if old one burned out you need to not only replace liquid line drier but also suction line. if it is a burn out that means you had a brown out or it is grounded. you can tell because the smell is very potent. if its not a burn out make sure to replace liquid line drier and pull into good vacuum. just make sure it is worth it also if the unit is over ten years old replace condensor.
one problem i do not know where you live but if the system is R-22 you may have trouble getting new compressor good luck if you have any question let me know

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2 Answers

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those seem to be very acceptable numbers you are stating if this is R22 running in summer temps. Im curious what pressures you are striving for?

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1 Answer

Model GSC130481AG, S# 0808548576 The common wire to the compressor rubbed through the wire insulation and melted a hole in the discharge line from the compressor. Upon loosing all of the refrigerant the...

You have a restriction in the system. Probably in the TXV or orifice in the A/H.
The burn out sent trash/fragments through the system. I would open the sytem and blow nitrogen through, then pull a deep vacuum.
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Jun 26, 2009 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

3 Compressor in 6 years. Is this normal? As a consummer iam left with no warranty and support...

Multi-Compressor Failures
1st time a compressor fails the service tech is suppose to determine the cause of the
Failure and fix it. Is it no oil return or oil being washed out of compressor do to low sump superheat,
liquid slugging do to thermostatic expansion valve or orifice flooding compressor,starving
for refrigerant do to thermostatic expansion valve or orifice not supplying enough refrigerant to keep the compressor cool, or is the reversing valve shifting properly or electrical,such as bad defrost board, capacitor,relay or electric component or connection, etc.
With multi-compressor failures until you determine the cause and fix it you will keep having this problem
And when a heat pump compressor fails if it’s a burn out, such as electric short or long running at high temperatures and pressures or low on refrigerant level not enough cooling back to the compressor, Causing the refrigerant to break down and create an acid. You need to check the oil in the bad compressor to see if there’s acid in it, then replace the compressor, reversing valve, accumulator (the oil and contaminents will accumulate here and you can‘t get it out), thermostatic expansion valve or orifice, liquid drier, suction line filter drier (if it’s on the lineset outside of the unit then you need to put it inside the unit as close to the compressor as possible).
And after running the system for a couple of days, then the liquid drier and suction filter should be replaced again, depending on how bad the burnt out was or if there‘s acid still in the system you might need to replace them again.
It’s hard to say who would be responsible but there’s something other than the compressor causing the problem and you need to find out what it is.

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1 Answer

The suction line temp is 90 to 95 and drops down to about 68 on a residential unit checked the evap. it wasn't dirty flushed drain line wanted to know what could possibly be causing such a thing

Check the Liquid line drier. Make sure the temperature on either side of the drier is the SAME.
If there is no drier, and there is an expansion valve installed in the air handler, then it might be "hunting" or have some trash or non-condensibles in the lines. The Liquid line must be in the low to mid 200psi range. Is the condensor coil clean? It must be.
Also is the filter new and not too restirctive? Don't use one of those 3 month filters. Think about this, if it is so good, and lasts 3 months, then each month, it gets loaded more and more. Imagine the particulates collected over a 3 month period!
Hope this helps.
God Bless.

Aug 08, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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