3 SPEED MOTOR WOULD JUST HUM. fOUND THE RETURN OR NEUTRAL WAS OPEN AND THERE WAS A SMALL BLACK DEVICE A FUSE OR WHAT EVER AND THIS SEEMS TO BE OPEN. tHIS IS WHERE THEY JOIN THE NUTRALS FOR THE 3 WINDINGS. wHAT IS IT AND WHERE DO i BUY IT?

See if you could turn the machine and remove the vent hose on the back.
Then, after you are sure it is clear, try a load of clothes with the vent hose blowing out into the air, not hooked to a vent hose pipe through the wall.
Very often, a plugged pipe will cause this behaviour. The pipe could be plugged in the wall or somewhere else.
Be blessed.

Time to get a new one.

this link shows you how with pictures http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

try changing ignitin fuses

I've fixed the same problem with my fan. I’m not suggesting that you use my fix, but this is what I did:

It turns out that the red wire going into the fan motor has an inline mini fuse built into it. I had to remove the motor and open it up in order to get at the mini fuse.

I guess the manufacturer really made this one with "no user serviceable parts inside" unless you are a technician or have a technician friend.

What I did first was to check continuity between the motor windings. With the motor wires disconnected, I measured about 30 ohms between the red wire (return) and the other separate motor winding wires: yellow, blue and black. Since the red wire didn't have any connection to the other wires, bingo I found the problem. The windings don't have a return path to complete the circuit. I then had to open the motor to fix the problem.

I was sure to mark the motor housing with index marks to insure correct reassembly after the repair. Once I had the motor apart, I was careful not to stress the motor windings. They are very fragile. I carefully cut away the black shrink tubing on the red wire (this wire is the common return for the 3 speed motor). This revealed something that looked like a resistor between the red wire and the other motor windings. It is actually a 10 amp mini fuse.

I didn't have a replacement fuse that would fit inside the motor as the original so I soldered a jumper across the fuse, covered it with shrink tubing and put an inline fuse holder on the red wire outside the motor. If the fuse blows again, it will be easy to replace. I replaced all broken plastic cable ties that held the windings or cable harness in place.

I then cleaned and lubricated the motor's bushings. I used white lithium grease. The friction created from dry bushings is probably what caused the fuse to blow in the first place.

I reassembled the motor. The motor armature should spin freely if reassembly is correct. If not, redo.

This seems a little long, but it actually worked. The fan is once again pushing that cool breeze.

Also, a note to technicians; a pretty decent application circuit and schematic of the fan’s controller unit IC (SC8207) can be found in pdf format at: http://www.silan.com.cn/english/product/pdf/20090402103358633742652383299234.pdf

Look instead at the motor and drill post bearings. Remove the belt to see if the motor runs correctly with no load. If it still hums and gets hot, check that the motor itself turns freely (when off). If the motor seems to be ok, turn the driven pulley by hand--it should also turn freely. The capacitor is usually a starting assist, not running. To test, wrap a small rope several turns (when pulled must turn in the normal direction) around the small motor pulley and pull smartly while turning the motor on. If it now comes up to speed, the capacitor has lost capacitance. Electronic parts suppliers like Jameco or Mouser have such items.

I have repaired mines.  It was found in the trash dump, just before street curb side trash collection.  It is a very sophisticated lawn mower.  It taken me a month to restore it.  The problem is the housing is poor design and does not hold the pin switch securely.  This is not a simple on/off switch.  It is switch module with two momentary switches built in to it to work simultaneously.  The hot is a normally open momentary switch and the neutral is a normally closed  momentary switch.  Two things must occurred simultaneously for the lawn mower to work.  The AC hot has to close and the neutral to open.  This is a split phase AC motor.  The switch has four connectors to it.  The first two has black wires to it, for the hot, that is normally open.  The second two has a white wire and red wire to it for the motor's start up winding.  The orange connects with the plug's white, neutral.  A new substitute switch will be two individual momentary switch, one for the two black wires will be normally open and the two for the red and white wires from the motor start coil will be normally close.  It will take two fingers to operate the lawn mower.  I recommend you to buy a new and each switch from Black and Decker. 
The problem with the system is not the switch, but the poorly designed switch box housing.  Often, there is nothing wrong with the switch.  I tested mines and it works fine.  The problem is the switch box housing does not keep the switch in the correct position for the higher tension spring lever to press against it to operate.  I use small washers to stack between the rear of the switch inside and reassembled the switch box upside down by turning the handle upside down, so the washers and switch do not fall out.  Once I am finished assembling the switch box and position it on the handle, then I position the handle back to the normal top side and attach the handle back to the lawn mower.  I am finished.   
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_motor#Split-phase_induction_motor

"Split Phase Motors
Split phase ac motors are widely used for low power applications as for example in oil burners, furnace blowers, garage door openers and major appliances. Such motors employ separate run and start windings connected in parallel across the acpower source. When the motor is initially energized both windings are energized, and when the rotor speed reaches about eighty-five percent of the normal running speed the start winding is disconnected from the circuit. Various devices are utilized forthis latter purpose and include centrifugal switches and current and voltage relays.

A problem which is characteristic of these motors is that they have a relatively short operating life. The principal reason for this is the failure of the switching devices used to cut out the start windings when the rotors approach the normalrunning speeds.Failure of these switching devices in turn cause the start windings to burn out.

One of the reasons for the failure of these switching devices is the high currents which they are carrying at the time the contacts open. Attempts to increase contact life by use of improved designs and materials have not been altogethersuccessful. Another disadvantage associated with these switching devices is that they are necessarily quite large and occupy a substantial space in the motor housing." -from another web site.

Some one missed the wiring diagram. I believe its like this:
L1 = Line 1 = (Hot all are same thing)
Black Hi
Blue Med
Red LO
Now usually the black is for AC and connects to a normally Open (NO) contact on the blower relay.
The heater speed (either red or blue) go the the normally Closed (NC) on the blower relay and on one side of this wire or contact on the relay it goes to the heating blower thermostat on the furnace.
The remaining wire (blue or red) you tape off.
L1 also feeds the Run Capacitor on 1 side and the Brown wire feeds the opposite side

The white wire is Neutral and goes to the neutral on the main line.

If this helps you please rate me accordingly and good luck.

My GF broke our Braun handheld mixer type 4191 500W, trying to mix some figs, the mixer doesn't do anything anymore. I like the mixer very much. I poked a while trying to open it and look what is wrong. This is what i found to open it. On the top, where the numbers are to adjust the speed: remove gently that lid. Below that you'll find 2e lid with the numbers on (1-5), this you can get open by pressing inside the 2 holes with 2 little screwdrivers, push these 2 black tips away and the 2e lid can be removed. Unfortunately i broke my mixer up trying. Now it's open i see how it was. Good luck guys

I have repaired mines. It was found in the trash dump, just before street curb side trash collection. It is a very sophisticated lawn mower. It taken me a month to restore it. The problem is the housing is poor design and does not hold the pin switch securely. This is not a simple on/off switch. It is switch module with two momentary switches built in to it to work simultaneously. The hot is a normally open momentary switch and the neutral is a normally closed momentary switch. Two things must occurred simultaneously for the lawn mower to work. The AC hot has to close and the neutral to open. This is a split phase AC motor. The switch has four connectors to it. The first two has black wires to it, for the hot, that is normally open. The second two has a white wire and red wire to it for the motor's start up winding. The orange connects with the plug's white, neutral. A new substitute switch will be two individual momentary switch, one for the two black wires will be normally open and the two for the red and white wires from the motor start coil will be normally close. It will take two fingers to operate the lawn mower. I recommend you to buy a new and each switch from Black and Decker.
The problem with the system is not the switch, but the poorly designed switch box housing. Often, there is nothing wrong with the switch. I tested mines and it works fine. The problem is the switch box housing does not keep the switch in the correct position for the higher tension spring lever to press against it to operate. I use small washers to stack between the rear of the switch inside and reassembled the switch box upside down by turning the handle upside down, so the washers and switch do not fall out. Once I am finished assembling the switch box and position it on the handle, then I position the handle back to the normal top side and attach the handle back to the lawn mower. I am finished.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_motor#Split-phase_induction_motor

"Split Phase Motors
Split phase ac motors are widely used for low power applications as for example in oil burners, furnace blowers, garage door openers and major appliances. Such motors employ separate run and start windings connected in parallel across the acpower source. When the motor is initially energized both windings are energized, and when the rotor speed reaches about eighty-five percent of the normal running speed the start winding is disconnected from the circuit. Various devices are utilized forthis latter purpose and include centrifugal switches and current and voltage relays.

A problem which is characteristic of these motors is that they have a relatively short operating life. The principal reason for this is the failure of the switching devices used to cut out the start windings when the rotors approach the normalrunning speeds.Failure of these switching devices in turn cause the start windings to burn out.

One of the reasons for the failure of these switching devices is the high currents which they are carrying at the time the contacts open. Attempts to increase contact life by use of improved designs and materials have not been altogethersuccessful. Another disadvantage associated with these switching devices is that they are necessarily quite large and occupy a substantial space in the motor housing." -from another web site.