Question about Tecumseh Ov691ea 22 Hp 22hp Lawn Rider Mower Engine Bn

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Motor surge when in reverse , took carbs off and found ( # 37 on schematic ) in front of the solenoid on the bottom of the bowl , a little rubber disk took it out and the motor runs now , where it would not before . Now it just surges in reverse. Also cant find rebuild kit for carbs.

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  • dfreeman810 Sep 10, 2010

    this is a tvt691 spec 600810b motor

  • dfreeman810 Sep 10, 2010

    tvt691 20 HP spec 600810B

  • dfreeman810 Sep 10, 2010

    email said I had a solution but I cant find it.

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Here is a link to carburator kits, and hopefully yours is there:
http://www.alamia.us/Tecumseh_carburetor_kits_s/966.htm
Not sure why it's surging in reverse, unless there's some delay and the carb's getting a bit more gas then surging.
Here is a neat site, with exploded diagrams and parts lists:
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=OV691EA-600833D
Good luck, hope this helps, and thanks for using FixYa.

Posted on Sep 10, 2010

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Engine surges on a 16 Hp koler command


What is the Engine code from nameplate on top of engine ?
Carb issues or fuel pressure solenoid if equipped ( hex bolt looking thing with 2 wires attached to bottom of carb fuel bowl)
Could be loose wire, Melted, grounding or shorted wire.
Review all wires, Be sure gas cap breather hole is cleaned and service the carb according to directions online. (carb dirty) doesn't take much. Let us know please.

Jun 13, 2013 | Garden

Tip

Cleaning the fuel float bowl


Note: this procedure will often cure no start issues and or surging issues, or once done a little running after the fact will clear up surging issues as well.

Often gas with ethanol will cause gunk build up in the float bowl making your mower run badly and have a 'surging' behavior especially at low idle speeds, or cause it to not run at all (almost all gas has ethanol as an additive now for 'emission' reasons so assume you have it unless you KNOW you don't). This can take as little as a few weeks or a month or two of not running to happen. Frequently a simple float bowl and carb cleaning will resolve these issues completely or at least to get you back to a running point.

To clean the float bowl area, it's best to remove the carb. (make sure you pinch off gas lines with a vice grip or similar to keep it from spilling out and remove things carefully to avoid breaking seals on the intake)

Tip the carb over a catch basin or oil drip pan and turn it this way and that to pour as much excess fuel as you can. If your carb has a electric solenoid or an overflow screw on the bottom, removing this will let you pour fuel out of the bowl area.

To begin cleaning, Turn the carb upside down. Typically there are 2 or 3 screws that hold the bowl to the bottom of the carb. Do ALL of this over a nice metal tray that will catch any falling parts like small screws, carb jets, springs, plungers, etc.

Very carefully undo these screws and work the bowl until it breaks free of the seal

gently pull the bowl off the bottom of the carb. and you should see the float mechanism and main jet sticking out toward you. This visible area, all the orifices, and the bowl you removed are what you want to clean.

ANY orangish discoloration, sediment, or other gunk that is not obvious parts of the carb is bad news.. or good news because you're about to remove it and you found a problem that was worth fixing. If everything is clean, shiny, and aluminum and plastic looking, all is well in there, put it back together and move on to other DIY projects. :)

To clean it out assuming you saw at least a little orangish discoloration, a good pressurized can of carb cleaning spray is GREAT... HOWEVER, do not let carb cleaning spray get on ANY gaskets or rubber seals. The chemicals in carb cleaner will expand the rubber and make the seals not fit properly anymore and ruin them. (beware there is a TINY, impossible to see rubber seal on the plunger for the float so you MUST REMOVE THE FLOAT if you want to use carb spray to spray the metal on the carb or the jets while they are still on the carb. It may be better to just use a little gas in a metal tray and a soft toothbrush to scrub things off and clean them out. Typically it's just a pin you have to slide out in order to remove the float and plunger, it's sometimes a little tricky getting it back in just right.

You can also use your air compressor spray tool to blow out passages and dry out parts you are cleaning and it's great to blow out all the orifices you see in both directions ... BUT ... watch out because it is easy to accidentally blow out the jets and lose them! Also, wear eye protection ... seriously, do it, even if you're not using compressed air.

Once you have cleaned everything, make sure no little parts are in that handy metal tray you worked over the whole time. If there are any, find where they belong and put them back. Nothing in there is unnecessary... nothing!

Once you put it all back together, the carb will naturally refill with fuel and you should be able to start right up after a few seconds of cranking.

Any residual surging will often clear up after some run time, I like to use a little mix in gas carb cleaner after doing a carb cleaning. If my tractor has sat more than 2 months not running, I often check this before even trying to start to make sure I don't pull any gunk that did build up into the jets and clog them. Cleaning the bowl is easier than cleaning the orifices!

on Nov 15, 2013 | Garden

2 Answers

Huaya carb no gas in bowl


the needle has to fall down and follow the float movement
if it doesn't it is stuck on the seat and may need replacing as it has a small rubber section that may damage when pulled down

Apr 24, 2017 | Cub Cadet Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

How do i get it out to put new one in


find the offending carb or carbs by pulling float bowl over flow hoses to the side and starting motor, 1 or move hose will be pouring fuel, follow hose to offending carb, unmount all 4 carbs from motor,(unmount tank,1 bolt 2 hoses,2 wires) then (unscew hose clamps from front and back of carbs) next(reomove scew from very top font of air box,near metal cross bar behind fuel tank) then wiggle carbs to separate from rubber intakes,unhook trhottle cables pull carbs out one side(either side of bike) once off turn upside down,take 4 bowl screws out ,remove cover,take out small pin holding floats ,needle will come with it,use the right wrench and uscrew brass seat needle came out of(make sure any rubber o ring come with) reinstall seat &any orings take old needle off float install new one,put needle in hole of seat,pin float put cover back on bottom of carb,re assemble bike.I hope you've maked where everything goes,a little oilon rubber helps with reassembly .













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Jul 17, 2010 | 1981 Suzuki GS 750 L

3 Answers

My Craftsman Lawn Tractor 18 HP Briggs and Stratton runs about 10-15 minutes and then stalls. Will restart after a cool down period, any ideas?


I had the same problem and talked to 3 different techs. The only solution they would come up with is to replace the carb. I didnt believe this was the problem. If you have a fuel solenoid on the bottom of the float bowl remove it and just put in a float bowl plug that threads in. I just taped up the solenoid connector. It runs better than it ever did. I believe the solenoid gets hot and starts shutting off the fuel. I used a plug from a spare set of 1977 yamaha motorcycle carbs I had sitting around.Go figure. Hope this works

Jun 26, 2010 | Craftsman 17.5 hp 42 in. Deck Lawn Tractor...

2 Answers

Engine will not start. good spark, have cleaned carb, but still does not want to fire. have added fuel down carb and have been able to get motor to fire for a moment but seems like I am not getting fuel to...


There is a solenoid on the bottom of the bowl on the carburator. This solenoid shuts off the fuel when the key is in the off position. Remove the gas line, remove the connector on the solenoid and unscrew it from the bowl. Plug the connector back in with the solenoid removed and watch to see if the solenoid is pulling in the rubber stopper when you turn on the key. If not, check that the solenoid is receiving power. If not it's probably in the wiring. If it has power and doesn't operate, you need a new solenoid.

May 30, 2010 | Poulan 42-Inch Steel Deck 17.5 HP Briggs &...

1 Answer

Do you have any info on lawn mower carbs?


If this is a carb-on-the-tank Briggs engine, replace the rubber diaphragm that fits between the carb and the tank. Almost certain fix.

Sep 30, 2009 | Garden

1 Answer

Engine runs for 2 seconds...


Take carb apart and clean with carb and choke cleaner. Make sure no varnish is in any of the little holes. You can use a very small piece of wire to clean little holes. Do not force the wire just wiggle it around and use the cleaner. Be sure to not loose any small parts. It probably wouldn't hurt to get a rebuild kit and rebuild the carb.

Aug 31, 2009 | Craftsman 20 Hp 42" Deck Lawn Tractor

1 Answer

My 18 hp twin cylinder Briggs and Strat. Craftsman lawn tractor moter surges and dies. I cleaned the carbuetor body and the goveror linkage. No problems found. I rebuilt the fuel pump rubber and...


Hi..my name is Keith...and the engine is running too lean..and with you choking it..it richens the mixture..so its a carb problem..and that could be several things..1)..is the main metering jet needle on the bottom of the float bowl needs to be turn out until the engine runs smooth..or 2) the carb to engine gasket is bad and its sucking air..or 3)..the passage ways in the carb is stopped up..i hope one of these will help..if not please write me back

Jul 10, 2009 | Garden

4 Answers

Rpm surge with intermediate power load


The problem is the governor and is easily fixed. Do the following: Remove back and side panels to expose fuel tank. Insert screwdriver into fuel on/off switch on front panel and remove. Now remove top panel. To do this unscrew fuel cap, pull out fuel spill surround rubber and remove top panel, just pull gently. Now with fuel tank exposed, remove retaining bolts. Gently lift tank and rest on frame. No need to disconnect fuel line.On top of carby is the governor, protected in a black plastic shield. Unscrew the retaining screws that hold it to the carby. Remove electrical connection and then remove governor from carby. Now remove cover by pressing on the three retaining plastic clips and prize upwards. Now the solenoid is exposed. Remove solenoid from its base by unscrewing the two retaining screws. Now that the solenoid is fully exposed use an spray on electrical cleaner that can be used on circuit boards. Spray the base of the solenoid in particular the spindle. Whilst spraying the spindle rotate it a few times until it moves freely. Then replace everthing in reverse order. Where the spindle exits the solenoid dust particles collect and increase the friction between the two surfaces. If you do not want to proceed as outlined tell your dealer it is the solenoid and have it fixed under warranty.

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